Revisiting an old enemy: Meg's #7

chefwong said:
SBEE -



If you are on a glaze kick, try the old skool Clear Kote products the next time you have a impulse.Hands down, RMG is my go to glaze in my stash....
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Oh yeah, I love RMG. It has a great combination of gloss and concealing. Not to mention that it's so easy to use. How they get by the VOC laws is a mystery, though. Not that I'm complaining... it gives a very good, clean high... er.. i mean finish....
 
Accumulator said:
SuperBee364- Glad the #7 worked out so well for you! Interesting how it boosted the looks so much (an improvement I did *not* experience last time I used Meg's similar #3 on a well-prepped b/c metallic paint).



Gee, wonder if we're gonna go full-circle here and end up raving about #7 topped with #16, something members of my family were doing ~50 years ago.
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Interesting observation between #3 and #7. #3 is definitely easier to use but it isn't as liquidy (is that even a word?) as #7 as you noted. Both give a very noticable improvement in depth, that's for sure.



#81 seems to be a good compromise, at least in my experience. Nearly as easy to use as #3 and nearly as rich looking as #7.
 
I did a '68 camaro a couple weeks ago. The car had a 15 yr old urethane paint job. I read a post to let the #7 to stay on the car overnight. I have to tell you the car came out great.
 
I prefer #7 via the tan Meg's pad on speed 3. Two to three pea sized drops to do a panel. I really like to work the product almost like I'm massaging it into the paint. Buff off is really easy this way. I work one panel at a time and then go over the entire car with a final wipe down once I'm done. I enjoy the look so much I almost always include it in my personal details. I have tried it with the new black pad but prefer the softness of the old tan pad for working with #7. Those wanting to get white to look wet should really give it a try. My garage queen is white and I rarely do anything to the paint that doesn't end with #7 before LSP.
 
Yes the #7. Excellent after PO85RD. Then folowed by Fuzion or Vintage or your favorite wax. #81 is awesome also. I love it and RMG before your LSP. Thanks Superbee.
 
JohnZ3MC said:
Good writeup and you've inspired me to try it too.



I smiled at your shopping ethic, I'm very similar.

I went to the drug store yesterday, saw my old nemesis too. I bought a bottle of Buckley's Cough Medicine ............ and I don't even have a cold.



-John C.
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Well, but you might be *catching* one, so it's a good idea to have it on hand just in case... ;)
 
Given that some are re-visiting Meguiar's pure polishes, the rotary users among you might want to consider giving M03 Machine Glaze a try. Tim Lingor is particularly fond of the stuff. He believes that he can achieve a more liquid look with #3 and his rotary than he can with Megs' other pure polishes applied by hand or D/A. #3 is the one pure polish made by Meguiar's that has been formulated for rotary application.
 
akimel said:
Given that some are re-visiting Meguiar's pure polishes, the rotary users among you might want to consider giving M03 Machine Glaze a try. Tim Lingor is particularly fond of the stuff. He believes that he can achieve a more liquid look with #3 and his rotary than he can with Megs' other pure polishes applied by hand or D/A. #3 is the one pure polish made by Meguiar's that has been formulated for rotary application.
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Well, I'm off to Autozone...Just when I thought I had all my products purchased for the year.
 
akimel said:
Given that some are re-visiting Meguiar's pure polishes, the rotary users among you might want to consider giving M03 Machine Glaze a try. Tim Lingor is particularly fond of the stuff. He believes that he can achieve a more liquid look with #3 and his rotary than he can with Megs' other pure polishes applied by hand or D/A. #3 is the one pure polish made by Meguiar's that has been formulated for rotary application.
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I'm in complete agreement with Tim in this case.. I have used M03 many times as a final step with a 9006 or 8006 pad and it has never disappointed me
 
So after reading this thread, I headed out to the garage and found two bottles. Half a bottle of #7 and 3/4 of a bottle of #3. Can you guess what I'm doing this weekend?
 
zaxjax said:
So after reading this thread, I headed out to the garage and found two bottles. Half a bottle of #7 and 3/4 of a bottle of #3. Can you guess what I'm doing this weekend?
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I sure hope you enjoy the results. :D
 
akimel said:
Given that some are re-visiting Meguiar's pure polishes, the rotary users among you might want to consider giving M03 Machine Glaze a try. Tim Lingor is particularly fond of the stuff. He believes that he can achieve a more liquid look with #3 and his rotary than he can with Megs' other pure polishes applied by hand or D/A. #3 is the one pure polish made by Meguiar's that has been formulated for rotary application.
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Hey Al,



Meguiar's M03 Machine Glaze is one of my all time favorites! When used with a rotary, a finishing pad and a lower/moderate speed (around 1000 rpm), it provides that deep wet 'liquid look'. The key is to remove the product while it is still damp using a top quality MF towel.



On a dark color, after M03, topped with M21 v2 or M26, the paint will be ultra deep and rich. On a light color, it adds incredible gloss! :xyxthumbs



Just IMHO! :)



Tim
 
Must #3 or #7 be topped with a carnauba wax or can it be topped with a synthetic sealant like NXT 2.0? Should it be applied before or after wax/sealant?



This following question may be premature considering the way the thread is progressing, but it would otherwise come out eventually. #3 or #7 preference? On red single-stage paint?
 
SuperBee364 said:
I sure hope you enjoy the results. :D
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So, I did a test panel on my wife's 08 Black Yukon Denali with #7 and #3. Both yielded great results, the paint looks very deep and wet and then I topped with Pinnacle Souveran. Unreal!





The only real thing holding me back is from using a glaze on a customer's car is the glaze filling and any imperfections showing back up.
 
zaxjax said:
So, I did a test panel on my wife's 08 Black Yukon Denali with #7 and #3. Both yielded great results, the paint looks very deep and wet and then I topped with Pinnacle Souveran. Unreal!





The only real thing holding me back is from using a glaze on a customer's car is the glaze filling and any imperfections showing back up.
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Don't let that hold you back... a lot of people are simply used to swirl marks, and when we see 85% perfect, they see 100%... not only that, but if they're regular clients you can keep hiding the swirls with something when they come back for a wash & wax... obviously I'm saying this considering you actually share your intentions with the client and tell them you'd rather hide some of the swirls than remove more paint... sometimes it's simply necessary
 
Works with either Carnauba or NXT 2.0 to seal in the wetlook from the glaze. The purpose of either is to slow the evaporation of the oils in the glaze. I frequently would use #7 over a sealant right before a show to make the paint extra wet looking and would reseal after the show. If not sealed with a wax or sealant, the oils evaporate in a couple days.



I loved the deep wetlook it gave my red MR2.
 
zaxjax said:
So, I did a test panel on my wife's 08 Black Yukon Denali with #7 and #3. Both yielded great results, the paint looks very deep and wet and then I topped with Pinnacle Souveran. Unreal!





The only real thing holding me back is from using a glaze on a customer's car is the glaze filling and any imperfections showing back up.
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Yup, I totally understand where you're coming from. Just make sure you get the car as defect free as you feel comfortable with before using the glaze. #7 is all about looks, though; it doesn't really do much in the concealing department. I did a test of this by putting holograms on my car and then trying to cover them up with #7. It didn't conceal them one bit.
 
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