Removing rust safely from brake drums?
- Thread starter Megladon
- Start date
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Application of the vehicles brake system will remove the rust from the rotors by friction (if it really bothers you replace the existing rotors with zinc rotors (zero rust)
Ron Ketcham
Active member
Rear drums, how old of vehicle?
That rust is normal by the way, unless they have been media blasted after buying the car to remove the factory paint, and a good high temp paint used for calipers is applied.
Grumpy
That rust is normal by the way, unless they have been media blasted after buying the car to remove the factory paint, and a good high temp paint used for calipers is applied.
Grumpy
Boston Man
New member
I sanded them, cleaned, degreased and painted with BBQ paint.
These pics are from 4 years ago. After 2 years, rust started to form at the edges. They havent gotten much worse since then. They are still black.
Im sure they will last much longer if done correctly... What Ron Ketcham said.
Before
After
These pics are from 4 years ago. After 2 years, rust started to form at the edges. They havent gotten much worse since then. They are still black.
Im sure they will last much longer if done correctly... What Ron Ketcham said.
Before
After
Ron Ketcham
Active member
It appears they have held up well.
The high temp caliper paint has a more robust resin system than the BBQ paint, and it will last longer, especially when one takes the correct preparations steps as you did.
I have found that three coats, first thin, second medium, allowing some cure/dry time between coats and the last coat as a filler and gloss, produces what appears to work the best.
Grumpy
The high temp caliper paint has a more robust resin system than the BBQ paint, and it will last longer, especially when one takes the correct preparations steps as you did.
I have found that three coats, first thin, second medium, allowing some cure/dry time between coats and the last coat as a filler and gloss, produces what appears to work the best.
Grumpy
Boston Man
New member
That AFTER picture is from 4 years ago, as well.
I can take a picture of them if you want, so you can see what they look like now.
I can take a picture of them if you want, so you can see what they look like now.
Ron Ketcham
Active member
Let's get things on track.
Are you wanting to know about "drums", "rotors" or "calipers"?
First post was regarding drums, and now you are saying zinc rotors.
Grumpy
Are you wanting to know about "drums", "rotors" or "calipers"?
First post was regarding drums, and now you are saying zinc rotors.
Grumpy
Boston Man said:I sanded them, cleaned, degreased and painted with BBQ paint.
These pics are from 4 years ago. After 2 years, rust started to form at the edges. They havent gotten much worse since then. They are still black.
Im sure they will last much longer if done correctly... What Ron Ketcham said.
Before
After
I see, nice job by the way. My drums are no where near as bad as yours were in the first picture.
If they get worse im going to have to do the same.
Accumulator
Well-known member
On *MILDLY* rusted rear drums, where the oe finish was still basically OK and there was just a little light rust in some places, I did OK by polishing with KAIO and then with BlackFire's Gloss Enhancing Polish. I topped the BF GEP with BF sealant and it worked out surprisingly well. So well that the BF-stuff approach is how I generally handle mildly compromised matte/satin/flat black bits.
If you wanna redo 'em right, the best "rust treatment" stuff I've found is Rust Bullet's Metal Blast, works a lot better than other Rust Dissolvers/ "Navel Jelly"/etc. Use that stuff and then apply your paint. Or just use it to clean up the rust and then LSP things; I used it on the S8's rear rotor hats (light surface rust breaking through the OE silver paint) and then just KAIO/FK1000Ped them, and it held up fine for nearly a year...OK approach if you don't mind redoing it every now and then.
If you wanna redo 'em right, the best "rust treatment" stuff I've found is Rust Bullet's Metal Blast, works a lot better than other Rust Dissolvers/ "Navel Jelly"/etc. Use that stuff and then apply your paint. Or just use it to clean up the rust and then LSP things; I used it on the S8's rear rotor hats (light surface rust breaking through the OE silver paint) and then just KAIO/FK1000Ped them, and it held up fine for nearly a year...OK approach if you don't mind redoing it every now and then.
RaskyR1
Rasky's Auto Detailing
They still make cars with drum brakes? 
Deep Gloss Auto Salon
New member
RaskyR1 said:They still make cars with drum brakes?
I was surprised to find this out as well.
When I was car shopping with my daughter for her 1st "new" car last week I realized many of the the lower trim level vehicles we were looking a had rear drums....the was enough for me to insist we go up a level since I loathe working on drums.
RaskyR1
Rasky's Auto Detailing
Deep Gloss Auto Salon said:
I hear that!
More sarcasm than anything.
I knew some of the bare bones models still came with them....I just think it's funny. Accumulator said:
It's really light rust to consider repainting them. That's what i'll do, KAIO and BF GEP which I happen to have. However; I ran out of FK1000P a while ago. An excuse to order another can, and they last forever. Only reason I ran out, I use it on all our boat and jetskiis in AZ. I have some wheel wax but I don't think that's the better option.
I wouldn't mind redoing them now and then. Thanks
Ron Ketcham
Active member
NOPE, not long enough to spend the time and effort to do so.
Hey, let drums alone, I won a lot of road races with drums on the front and back.
Kids, what do you know?
Yeah, disc are much better, but for driving an econo car around town, not needed.
Grumpy
Hey, let drums alone, I won a lot of road races with drums on the front and back.
Kids, what do you know?
Yeah, disc are much better, but for driving an econo car around town, not needed.
Grumpy