Reflections Detailing of Utah: Jet Black Jag
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Redcar GUY
New member
Just a few things to add, look up any message boards like this one for the type of car that you are looking at. Ask about bad options or other things to look out for. The people on these forums will know because they have the cars now, and talk about them an a daily basis like we do car care. When I was looking for my SS I went to may Camaro sites and learned so much about the car before I even walked in to a Dealership I felt like I had the upper hand on options and option packages. I ended up buying my car from and person instead of a dealer, he was a car freak and the car he had I couldn’t find anywhere else. There are only 90 or so with the options that I wanted that were made (red 97 SS, red interior, 6 speed, and NO T tops). I went to the dealer and they told me I would never find one.......... Well there it is in my garage for the last few years
So Time is on your side and so is the net. Ingest all that you can handle
So Time is on your side and so is the net. Ingest all that you can handleCybercowboy
New member
I did the same thing - spent about 2 weeks on vette sites before I ever set foot in a showroom.
One thing I found out was that the adjustable suspension option wasn't worth it for most people. It is a very expensive option (over 2K if I remember) and most people set it to the "stiff" ride and forget it. The car handles the best with that setting. Why would you get a hot sports car and want it to have a mushy ride?
A guy told me he went to an event that Chevy put on and let them drive every new model with all sorts of option packages. He drove one car that didn't have the adjustable suspension yet it rode better than the ones that did - on any setting he tried. They told him "Oh, that has the Z51 option." Basically stiffer springs, anti-sway bars beefed up, and a bigger tranny cooler. For $250 or so.
So I got everything except the adjustable suspension and got the Z51 (which the dealer had never even heard of!). However, there was a box on his computer for him to check that said "Z51". Saved about $1750 and love the ride!
I would have never known this had I not done my homework. I can't imagine what would have happened if I had just wandered into their showroom to order a vette with the idea of taking their suggestions for the best option packages.
Oh yeah, I remember now. The guy said "But everybody gets the adjustable suspension option..." I knew better.
One thing I found out was that the adjustable suspension option wasn't worth it for most people. It is a very expensive option (over 2K if I remember) and most people set it to the "stiff" ride and forget it. The car handles the best with that setting. Why would you get a hot sports car and want it to have a mushy ride?
A guy told me he went to an event that Chevy put on and let them drive every new model with all sorts of option packages. He drove one car that didn't have the adjustable suspension yet it rode better than the ones that did - on any setting he tried. They told him "Oh, that has the Z51 option." Basically stiffer springs, anti-sway bars beefed up, and a bigger tranny cooler. For $250 or so.
So I got everything except the adjustable suspension and got the Z51 (which the dealer had never even heard of!). However, there was a box on his computer for him to check that said "Z51". Saved about $1750 and love the ride!
I would have never known this had I not done my homework. I can't imagine what would have happened if I had just wandered into their showroom to order a vette with the idea of taking their suggestions for the best option packages.
Oh yeah, I remember now. The guy said "But everybody gets the adjustable suspension option..." I knew better.
The key is to shop around. Experience is the best thing to have on your side. These saleman do this every day, day in and day out. Know what you can expect for your car check out the classified section, compare prices for your area. Let the salesman know that you already have other dealers trade in values.
Go in near the end of the month late in the day, these people want to up their sales for their next cheque. Check out Edmonds web site they have a lot of info on buying & leasing. http://www.edmunds.com/edweb/burkleon/chapt09.html
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >
So I just went along with it to see where it went. So, with the $1,700 off, the car was still expensive. And because I sill owed a bit of money on the loan that I took out on the BMW (bought it used), they had to give me enough money to pay off the small amount left. Well, they simply tacked on the difference to the price of the car.</blockquote>
Watch out ! This is not a good idea, if your not paying cash for the new car keep on eye for the interst rate. You may not be getting the advertised rate. I don't think they will.
Good Luck
Go in near the end of the month late in the day, these people want to up their sales for their next cheque. Check out Edmonds web site they have a lot of info on buying & leasing. http://www.edmunds.com/edweb/burkleon/chapt09.html
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >
So I just went along with it to see where it went. So, with the $1,700 off, the car was still expensive. And because I sill owed a bit of money on the loan that I took out on the BMW (bought it used), they had to give me enough money to pay off the small amount left. Well, they simply tacked on the difference to the price of the car.</blockquote>
Watch out ! This is not a good idea, if your not paying cash for the new car keep on eye for the interst rate. You may not be getting the advertised rate. I don't think they will.
Good Luck
Preachers Sheets
New member
Extended service is kind of useless. You get the three year 32,000 mile plan when you get the car. If you get an Audi their service is pretty good to start with. If nothing happens to a car within the first 32,000 miles nothing is likley to happen. Just another way for the dealership to get money for nothing....
Yea, go to the dealer wearing jeans and a sweater or something. Just put yourself in their mind, looks can say alot. NEVER act like you "need" the car, keep it cool, talk like you want it but you'll pass it up if you don't like something. Get the salesguy to try to sell you the car instead of the sales guy just waiting to see what you will offer him...
I as well did alot of research on my Camaro SS before I bought it, I looked into the engine, tranny, wheels, interior, electrical problems, major recalls and so forth. I just wanted to know what I may buy instead of getting a car I will prob have for the next 30 years of my life and discovering all the bad things as I own it.
Nothing worse than getting a horrible deal on a new car. The satisfaction of driving the brand new car hme, getting a good deal, starting the detailing from scratch, the smell and just all the newest toys on the car is awesome, don't ruin it with your sales experience...
Take pictures of that car when you get it, show up all the gadgets and toys.... engine bay pics too!
Yea, go to the dealer wearing jeans and a sweater or something. Just put yourself in their mind, looks can say alot. NEVER act like you "need" the car, keep it cool, talk like you want it but you'll pass it up if you don't like something. Get the salesguy to try to sell you the car instead of the sales guy just waiting to see what you will offer him...
I as well did alot of research on my Camaro SS before I bought it, I looked into the engine, tranny, wheels, interior, electrical problems, major recalls and so forth. I just wanted to know what I may buy instead of getting a car I will prob have for the next 30 years of my life and discovering all the bad things as I own it.
Nothing worse than getting a horrible deal on a new car. The satisfaction of driving the brand new car hme, getting a good deal, starting the detailing from scratch, the smell and just all the newest toys on the car is awesome, don't ruin it with your sales experience...
Take pictures of that car when you get it, show up all the gadgets and toys.... engine bay pics too!
imported_seven
New member
Try playing all three against each other & you'll be suprised who's the hungriest. First, know what the true dealer invoice is, the holdback, and the consumer & dealer incentives. FAX the sales manager personally at each dealership, tell them the exact model & options you are looking for, tell them you'll be purchasing the car in the next X days and that this same fax is being sent to other dealers in the area (don't make a specific offer let them "bid"). Tell them that you will purchase the car from the dealer that comes closest to your specs & with the lowest price, add that you've done your homework and you know what the wholesale value of the car is $XXXXX with all the incentives & holdback subtracted. When they call back, get their price & thank them. Then start calling them back telling them they didn't have the lowest price and they have to beat XX's price to get your business. In a few hours you'll get the best price and you'll have saved thousands. You won't have to spend hours in a showroom getting worn down by the sales people. But be warned, if you don't buy a car, and try the same routine a month from now, they'll all ignore you.
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Bayport_Bob [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>Try playing all three against each other & you'll be suprised who's the hungriest. First, know what the true dealer invoice is, the holdback, and the consumer & dealer incentives. FAX the sales manager personally at each dealership, tell them the exact model & options you are looking for, tell them you'll be purchasing the car in the next X days and that this same fax is being sent to other dealers in the area (don't make a specific offer let them "bid"). Tell them that you will purchase the car from the dealer that comes closest to your specs & with the lowest price, add that you've done your homework and you know what the wholesale value of the car is $XXXXX with all the incentives & holdback subtracted. When they call back, get their price & thank them. Then start calling them back telling them they didn't have the lowest price and they have to beat XX's price to get your business. In a few hours you'll get the best price and you'll have saved thousands. You won't have to spend hours in a showroom getting worn down by the sales people. But be warned, if you don't buy a car, and try the same routine a month from now, they'll all ignore you. [/b]</blockquote>
I just got a call from the aftermarket manager of the "new" dealership and I have to call him back Monday. I am still going to shop around and see who's going to give me the best price.
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Bayport_Bob [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>Try playing all three against each other & you'll be suprised who's the hungriest. First, know what the true dealer invoice is, the holdback, and the consumer & dealer incentives. FAX the sales manager personally at each dealership, tell them the exact model & options you are looking for, tell them you'll be purchasing the car in the next X days and that this same fax is being sent to other dealers in the area (don't make a specific offer let them "bid"). Tell them that you will purchase the car from the dealer that comes closest to your specs & with the lowest price, add that you've done your homework and you know what the wholesale value of the car is $XXXXX with all the incentives & holdback subtracted. When they call back, get their price & thank them. Then start calling them back telling them they didn't have the lowest price and they have to beat XX's price to get your business. In a few hours you'll get the best price and you'll have saved thousands. You won't have to spend hours in a showroom getting worn down by the sales people. But be warned, if you don't buy a car, and try the same routine a month from now, they'll all ignore you. [/b]</blockquote>
I just got a call from the aftermarket manager of the "new" dealership and I have to call him back Monday. I am still going to shop around and see who's going to give me the best price.
imported_BretFraz
New member
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Bayport_Bob [/i]
<strong class='bbc'> When they call back, get their price & thank them. Then start calling them back telling them they didn't have the lowest price and they have to beat XX's price to get your business. In a few hours you'll get the best price and you'll have saved thousands. You won't have to spend hours in a showroom getting worn down by the sales people. But be warned, if you don't buy a car, and try the same routine a month from now, they'll all ignore you. [/b]</blockquote>
I hope you're not suggesting that people lie to dealers about them not having the best price? I may be misreading this.
Fact is that most all local dealers of the same line (e.*. Nissan) know what the others are selling certain cars for. There is plenty of talk between dealers so if one is giving away cars to spite the others, it won't go unnoticed. This does happen (one dealer selling super cheaply) when one dealer, usually rather new, wants to establish themselves in a market. But this is a rare occurance and should not be counted on when buying a new car.
If you're gonna do the fax blast thing be ready to buy immediately. Most dealers who respond (and all won't) will stand by their prices for a few days. Don't use this technique if you are just shopping.
Personally, I think it's pretty easy to get a great deal on most any typical car or truck. If you know the prices and the local market demand and availability of a particular car you can quickly get down to a competitive price. If you make it clear you are ready to buy TODAY and that you've done all your homework and know what you're talking about (prices not features or specs) then you'll find salesmen willing to earn your business.
And for God's sake, do not do business with some sleazy jerk-oof salesperson just because you think he's giving you a good deal. The absolute worst thing a buyer can do is sit there like a dummy putting up with all the crap from some moron. Good, polite, professional service from a competent salesperson is worth spending a little extra, if only to make the car buying process enjoyable. Most consumers who bitterly complain about the lousy treatment they got from some dealership are mostly to blame by staying there in the first place. If you don't like the vibe, bail. That's why God blessed you with feet.
Car buying is fun for me. I love shopping, test driving, talking to salespeople, researching, and just the whole process. If you go in with a good attitude you'll always have a great experience and get a good deal. Have fun with it!!
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Bayport_Bob [/i]
<strong class='bbc'> When they call back, get their price & thank them. Then start calling them back telling them they didn't have the lowest price and they have to beat XX's price to get your business. In a few hours you'll get the best price and you'll have saved thousands. You won't have to spend hours in a showroom getting worn down by the sales people. But be warned, if you don't buy a car, and try the same routine a month from now, they'll all ignore you. [/b]</blockquote>
I hope you're not suggesting that people lie to dealers about them not having the best price? I may be misreading this.
Fact is that most all local dealers of the same line (e.*. Nissan) know what the others are selling certain cars for. There is plenty of talk between dealers so if one is giving away cars to spite the others, it won't go unnoticed. This does happen (one dealer selling super cheaply) when one dealer, usually rather new, wants to establish themselves in a market. But this is a rare occurance and should not be counted on when buying a new car.
If you're gonna do the fax blast thing be ready to buy immediately. Most dealers who respond (and all won't) will stand by their prices for a few days. Don't use this technique if you are just shopping.
Personally, I think it's pretty easy to get a great deal on most any typical car or truck. If you know the prices and the local market demand and availability of a particular car you can quickly get down to a competitive price. If you make it clear you are ready to buy TODAY and that you've done all your homework and know what you're talking about (prices not features or specs) then you'll find salesmen willing to earn your business.
And for God's sake, do not do business with some sleazy jerk-oof salesperson just because you think he's giving you a good deal. The absolute worst thing a buyer can do is sit there like a dummy putting up with all the crap from some moron. Good, polite, professional service from a competent salesperson is worth spending a little extra, if only to make the car buying process enjoyable. Most consumers who bitterly complain about the lousy treatment they got from some dealership are mostly to blame by staying there in the first place. If you don't like the vibe, bail. That's why God blessed you with feet.
Car buying is fun for me. I love shopping, test driving, talking to salespeople, researching, and just the whole process. If you go in with a good attitude you'll always have a great experience and get a good deal. Have fun with it!!
ExplorerXLT95
New member
I was always a big fan of what my dad said, because in my mind it seems to work. Perhaps I'm wrong, as I've never done this before, but it sounds like it would work REAL well. My dad did something relatively similar and it worked perfectly(he was buying a VW Passat 1.8T). Here's what he suggests:
Save up your money by making your current car run AS LONG AS POSSIBLE without spending serious cash to do so. Then decide on a car. Once you have the amount that you need, withdraw the money in cash and place it in a brief case. Walk up to the dealer salesperson and tell them exactly what you want, when you want it by, etc. When they start talking about price, stop them mid-sentence, open the briefcase, turn it towards them open and tell them, "Here's the MSRP minus $3000. Take it or leave it." If they agree, give them the money. If they don't, walk. However, I am almost certain you will never walk away without a car. This does a few things. 1) Makes the dealer EXTREMELY happy about the sudden in-flow of cold hard cash. 2) Take everything else out of the equation, such as negotiation and trickery. 3) Give you one hell of a deal, not to mention the fact that you do not have to make monthly car payments, worry about financing or interest. My dad did not use cash, but check is the same as cash to most people.
I have never heard of anyone paying OVER MSRP price on a car. I was always told to shoot for about 6-8% under MSRP. So on a $30k MSRP car, you would be shooting for somewhere in the neighborhood of $27600 when it's all said and done.
Basically, my point is thus: Cold, hard cash speaks volumes.
Just my $.02
Save up your money by making your current car run AS LONG AS POSSIBLE without spending serious cash to do so. Then decide on a car. Once you have the amount that you need, withdraw the money in cash and place it in a brief case. Walk up to the dealer salesperson and tell them exactly what you want, when you want it by, etc. When they start talking about price, stop them mid-sentence, open the briefcase, turn it towards them open and tell them, "Here's the MSRP minus $3000. Take it or leave it." If they agree, give them the money. If they don't, walk. However, I am almost certain you will never walk away without a car. This does a few things. 1) Makes the dealer EXTREMELY happy about the sudden in-flow of cold hard cash. 2) Take everything else out of the equation, such as negotiation and trickery. 3) Give you one hell of a deal, not to mention the fact that you do not have to make monthly car payments, worry about financing or interest. My dad did not use cash, but check is the same as cash to most people.
I have never heard of anyone paying OVER MSRP price on a car. I was always told to shoot for about 6-8% under MSRP. So on a $30k MSRP car, you would be shooting for somewhere in the neighborhood of $27600 when it's all said and done.
Basically, my point is thus: Cold, hard cash speaks volumes.
Just my $.02
ExplorerXLT95
New member
Does anyone have any thoughts on my above post?? I really would like to hear if you guys think this would work just about anywhere (as I know it worked with my Dad and the VW dealer)... Hit it up fellas/ladies
imported_BretFraz
New member
Ummmm....well...... seems more than a little crazy to me but if that style works for you and Dad, great. I don't think you'll get the reaction you expect at every dealership but all you need is one sales manager to jump at it and its a success.
Putting aside the ridiculously dangerous security issue of having a massive amount of cash in your hands, I can say that the dealers I know are not too happy to see cold hard greenbacks. Too much of a risk for them. Especially when a verifiable cashiers check is just as good. Seems to me a briefcase filled with money is more for ego gratification and a "Hollywood effect" than it is for an effective business transaction. But, hey, if it works.....:nixweiss
As for pricing, cars are sold every day over MSRP. Here's a short list of recent models that have sold for well over sticker:
Dodge Viper
Plymouth Prowler
Ford Thunderbird
VW New Beetle
Mini Cooper
Honda Odyssey
PT Cruiser
Audi TT
Right now Mini's are selling at dealer auction for $2000-4000 above sticker. Plenty of people are willing to pay $5000+ over MSRP for one of these cars.
Putting aside the ridiculously dangerous security issue of having a massive amount of cash in your hands, I can say that the dealers I know are not too happy to see cold hard greenbacks. Too much of a risk for them. Especially when a verifiable cashiers check is just as good. Seems to me a briefcase filled with money is more for ego gratification and a "Hollywood effect" than it is for an effective business transaction. But, hey, if it works.....:nixweiss
As for pricing, cars are sold every day over MSRP. Here's a short list of recent models that have sold for well over sticker:
Dodge Viper
Plymouth Prowler
Ford Thunderbird
VW New Beetle
Mini Cooper
Honda Odyssey
PT Cruiser
Audi TT
Right now Mini's are selling at dealer auction for $2000-4000 above sticker. Plenty of people are willing to pay $5000+ over MSRP for one of these cars.
When I buy a car I always pay cash, but not with cases of bills. I either use a cashiers check from my bank or a wire transfer.
If the dealership knows you have access to the $$$$ they will do business. If they don't give you a figure that is to your liking, hey there are other dealers.
If the dealership knows you have access to the $$$$ they will do business. If they don't give you a figure that is to your liking, hey there are other dealers.
do the homework like others mentioned by going to edmunds and stuff.
if you have a place called carmax near you, take your used car there and get a free quote for what they will offer you. this will be comparable to the dealer.
check internet site and see what other dealers in other areas are offering. there was a story locally about people that drive 100 miles plus to dealers in other counties/states to get a better deal. internet sales are easy and don't take time away from you really.
don't haddle on the details. You determine the price and options you are willing to pay total. Tell them that's the price. They can decicde hpow much they want to write on all the little lines on the form, but the total price should be what you say.
get your financing in place before hand. unles you know the dealer will offer you a screaming deal on the interest rate, get your loan approved before. then when you negotiate, don't mention financing or cash, just say you want to work the numbers first and then decide payment later. this saves them screwing with interest rates and save you time from having to fill out extra paperwork.
btw, my friend bought his A4 for $100 over invoice in sacramento when the new models first came out
if you have a place called carmax near you, take your used car there and get a free quote for what they will offer you. this will be comparable to the dealer.
check internet site and see what other dealers in other areas are offering. there was a story locally about people that drive 100 miles plus to dealers in other counties/states to get a better deal. internet sales are easy and don't take time away from you really.
don't haddle on the details. You determine the price and options you are willing to pay total. Tell them that's the price. They can decicde hpow much they want to write on all the little lines on the form, but the total price should be what you say.
get your financing in place before hand. unles you know the dealer will offer you a screaming deal on the interest rate, get your loan approved before. then when you negotiate, don't mention financing or cash, just say you want to work the numbers first and then decide payment later. this saves them screwing with interest rates and save you time from having to fill out extra paperwork.
btw, my friend bought his A4 for $100 over invoice in sacramento when the new models first came out
tkr128
New member
I've had some good luck with the internet. When we went to buy the Accord, I sent an e-mail to most of the near-by dealers and asked for a price quote. I got back some pretty good prices (they're not that great now, since they're trying to get rid of them). The MSRP on the car was $25,740 and the invoice was $23,205.44. I received one quote that was 700 over invoice, another that was 300 over invoice, another that was 100 under invoice and the final one that was 405 under invoice ($22,800). I just brought the quote to the closest dealer and they matched it. I didn't even have to negotiate, just showed the salesman, he asked his manager and within 5 minutes, that was the price we got. Now the cars sell for under $21k.
I've been on the retail end of car sales for 16 years now. There is too much variation between dealers and "selling systems" to give specific advice; many posters have "buying systems" that work for them, and that's good. But in reading this thread, one thing stuck out:
Research, research, research. Know what the car costs. Know the rebates and dealer cash. Know the value of your trade, if you are going to trade. Know the interest rate at your bank or credit union. The feeling of being "naked in front of the salesperson" is a result of not being familiar with the situation.
You want to know how to get around that, if you're new to buying cars? Role play. That's how we teach new salespeople to be comfortable in front of customers. Have a friend pretend to try to close you, preferably in front of an audience. It's not supposed to be real, just seem real.
There are lots of bad dealers; there are also lots of good dealers. I'm lucky to have been at a good one for the last 13 years. That being said, just because we are honest doesn't mean we don't want as much of your money as we can get; after all, you're good, and YOU want as much CAR for your money as you can get, too! Goodness among car dealers is having respect for you as a customer, is following through on promises, is, really, just being good. Price and value is something that is negotiated. Goodness is a quality that only some bring to the table; it's either there or it's not.
I'm digressing. The one unifying piece of advice through any thread I've ever seen on the subject is INFORMATION. In this internet age, there's no excuse for not having it. BUT... what happens invariably to customers is, they get all their information, they go to the dealership, they walk in the front door, a salesperson walks up to them, smiling, greeting, offering his hand, and.... WHOOSH! the customers mind goes blank, and he/she forgets everything!
Role play. Practice your words, and practice remembering the prices and trade in values.
Finally, smile. Be nice. Speaking as a car sales professional, it's easier to give a good deal to a customer I like than it is to one who I just wish would leave already. If the situation requires you taking action, it's far more effective to calmly say, "We're done here, good day," than it is to start ranting, raving, and calling names. Getting emotionally involved in the deal is a sure sign that you are losing. We don't get emotionally involved, and neither should you; it's just numbers. As a matter of fact, look at the first sentence of this paragraph,and now consider why I wrote it; you CAN get a salesperson emotionally involved, and it can be the little extra edge that you need for that last $100! When push comes to shove, it's a real issue; a customer who's been nasty, demandiing, and argumentive probably will get told that we're at the end, and there's no more money left (the rationale for that being, that customer will probably kill us on the CSI, and if we're going to get killed on the CSI then we're going to have to at lest make some money on the car to offset it).
I hope this helps some of you. If you wonder why I posted it, well, I'm coming in here and asking for advice from professionals and talented amateurs about how to protect my car; this is one way I can return the favor.
Now, find the word "WHOOSH!" above. No matter what I say, most people will forget it as soon as they reach the showroom door. Try to make yourself one of the ones who doesn't, is all.
Mosca
Research, research, research. Know what the car costs. Know the rebates and dealer cash. Know the value of your trade, if you are going to trade. Know the interest rate at your bank or credit union. The feeling of being "naked in front of the salesperson" is a result of not being familiar with the situation.
You want to know how to get around that, if you're new to buying cars? Role play. That's how we teach new salespeople to be comfortable in front of customers. Have a friend pretend to try to close you, preferably in front of an audience. It's not supposed to be real, just seem real.
There are lots of bad dealers; there are also lots of good dealers. I'm lucky to have been at a good one for the last 13 years. That being said, just because we are honest doesn't mean we don't want as much of your money as we can get; after all, you're good, and YOU want as much CAR for your money as you can get, too! Goodness among car dealers is having respect for you as a customer, is following through on promises, is, really, just being good. Price and value is something that is negotiated. Goodness is a quality that only some bring to the table; it's either there or it's not.
I'm digressing. The one unifying piece of advice through any thread I've ever seen on the subject is INFORMATION. In this internet age, there's no excuse for not having it. BUT... what happens invariably to customers is, they get all their information, they go to the dealership, they walk in the front door, a salesperson walks up to them, smiling, greeting, offering his hand, and.... WHOOSH! the customers mind goes blank, and he/she forgets everything!
Role play. Practice your words, and practice remembering the prices and trade in values.
Finally, smile. Be nice. Speaking as a car sales professional, it's easier to give a good deal to a customer I like than it is to one who I just wish would leave already. If the situation requires you taking action, it's far more effective to calmly say, "We're done here, good day," than it is to start ranting, raving, and calling names. Getting emotionally involved in the deal is a sure sign that you are losing. We don't get emotionally involved, and neither should you; it's just numbers. As a matter of fact, look at the first sentence of this paragraph,and now consider why I wrote it; you CAN get a salesperson emotionally involved, and it can be the little extra edge that you need for that last $100! When push comes to shove, it's a real issue; a customer who's been nasty, demandiing, and argumentive probably will get told that we're at the end, and there's no more money left (the rationale for that being, that customer will probably kill us on the CSI, and if we're going to get killed on the CSI then we're going to have to at lest make some money on the car to offset it).
I hope this helps some of you. If you wonder why I posted it, well, I'm coming in here and asking for advice from professionals and talented amateurs about how to protect my car; this is one way I can return the favor.
Now, find the word "WHOOSH!" above. No matter what I say, most people will forget it as soon as they reach the showroom door. Try to make yourself one of the ones who doesn't, is all.
Mosca
Great post, Mosca.
What is CSI?
I understand about being willing to turn away certain customers. If they start out argumentative and nasty, they probably just aren't worth having as customers. Same in my business, but I had to learn it the hard way.
WHOOSH. I printed out some of the info I had garnered on the internet and brought it with me when I went to buy a new car. (Didn't buy it, but that only had to do with finances changing.)
What is CSI?
I understand about being willing to turn away certain customers. If they start out argumentative and nasty, they probably just aren't worth having as customers. Same in my business, but I had to learn it the hard way.
WHOOSH. I printed out some of the info I had garnered on the internet and brought it with me when I went to buy a new car. (Didn't buy it, but that only had to do with finances changing.)
Customer satisfaction index.
A lot of manufacturer to salesperson incentives are tied to your individual CSI. You might sell a difficult customer a car and get a $50 mini, but cost yourself $100 on every Tracker you sold during the month because whether you get your $$ depends on your CSI, and the guy not only beat you up for the price, he then took it out on you on the CSI because he just wanted to. Many of us feel that there is actually a DISincentive to work with a difficult customer, for that reason.
I sold cars for 2 years, was a sales manager for 2 years, and have done F&I since 1989. It's hard to answer specific questions because there are so many different situations, and unless I'm there, I really can't comment. The general advice given here, by others, is excellent. I'm just trying to add the "practice" part, so that when you get into the showroom you're more at ease and more able to remember what you want, along with the "nice" part. Most customers ARE nice, and don't need to be reminded, but there are so many bad stories out there, customers need to be reminded that getting you angry might be part of a strategy, too.
Mosca
A lot of manufacturer to salesperson incentives are tied to your individual CSI. You might sell a difficult customer a car and get a $50 mini, but cost yourself $100 on every Tracker you sold during the month because whether you get your $$ depends on your CSI, and the guy not only beat you up for the price, he then took it out on you on the CSI because he just wanted to. Many of us feel that there is actually a DISincentive to work with a difficult customer, for that reason.
I sold cars for 2 years, was a sales manager for 2 years, and have done F&I since 1989. It's hard to answer specific questions because there are so many different situations, and unless I'm there, I really can't comment. The general advice given here, by others, is excellent. I'm just trying to add the "practice" part, so that when you get into the showroom you're more at ease and more able to remember what you want, along with the "nice" part. Most customers ARE nice, and don't need to be reminded, but there are so many bad stories out there, customers need to be reminded that getting you angry might be part of a strategy, too.
Mosca