Reduce Detail Times 30 Minutes: 4 tips

Wow.....just wow. I really do not know if that was being serious...or only really well put together joke. I am really at a loss. What products do you use?



Also to make sure I understand this right...Chevy paint should look like **** where-as Mercedes paint should look flawless? What does that mean for Honda? That it should just never see detailing and stick to auto car washes?
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
This paintxpert guy is obviously trolling.... the level of misinformation is unreal!
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He's not. He really believes it, he's been stating the same things ever since he came here two years ago. I think he's just really old school and hasn't ever really seen the work of an Autopian detailer.



And no one's ever explained the edit feature to him either....:twitch:
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
This paintxpert guy is obviously trolling.... the level of misinformation is unreal!
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I love that he hammers out four or five posts to get across what he could have said in one. That is TALENT.
 
paintxpert said:
I dont clay.....I know how to machine polish. ...Clay is for newbies who cant machine polish
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What is the purpose of clay in your opinion? Does it remove overspray? Does it remove orange peel? Does it remove scratches and swirls?



Does a clay bar remove the same amount of paint as using a rotary or wheel, as you call it?





Just curious...
 
PorscheGuy997 said:
What is the purpose of clay in your opinion? Does it remove overspray? Does it remove orange peel? Does it remove scratches and swirls?



Does a clay bar remove the same amount of paint as using a rotary or wheel, as you call it?





Just curious...
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With out speaking out of line or for him, and certainly no offence intended,



I think you will find he is referring to using a Buff and compound to actually physically remove the portion of paint holding the contaminates. This is an old school type of approach IMO, as technology has changed in both paint and products.



The other problem I see with this approach is in some cases the pressure and heat used can in fact drive the contaminates deeper into the paint making true removal almost impossible and the potential for premature paint failure is increased



It's certainly not my process, but hey each to there own



Daniel
 
Since I wash with ONR, I am already saving time there. I do the wheels, tires and fenderwells first, then dress them prior to washing. Almost always windy here and if I dress everything last, there is a risk of dressing overspray on the paint. I also clean interior glass prior to dressing the interior. Then I don't have to worry about glass cleaner getting on freshly dressed surfaces. When I do interiors, I start vacuuming up front, then move the seats up and vacuum the back. Then I start the actual deep cleaning in the back, move the seats back, then deep clean the front. Little stuff like not moving the seats back and forth add up. The biggest thing though, is developing a system and order of doing things that work best for you and then doing it consistently.
 
paintxpert said:
Without offending anyone around here. Clay is for newbies who cant machine polish.
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Completely incorrect. By using clay on paint in good condition, I then don't have to hit it hard with a rotary, then the follow up steps required to leave a completely 100% hologram free finish. Are you seriously going to use a rotary and wool pad on paint that isn't swirled to remove bonded contaminants? Takes 10-30 minutes to clay both cars, if you combine it with the washing step, then you can go right to a polishing or finishing pad and finish more quickly.



As you can see, I CAN machine polish...



2008_BMW_335_before1.jpg




2008_BMW_335_after1.jpg
 
Scottwax said:
Completely incorrect. By using clay on paint in good condition, I then don't have to hit it hard with a rotary, then the follow up steps required to leave a completely 100% hologram free finish. Are you seriously going to use a rotary and wool pad on paint that isn't swirled to remove bonded contaminants? Takes 10-30 minutes to clay both cars, if you combine it with the washing step, then you can go right to a polishing or finishing pad and finish more quickly.



As you can see, I CAN machine polish...



2008_BMW_335_before1.jpg




2008_BMW_335_after1.jpg
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I don't understand the mentality - car covered with bonded contaminants and fallout and rather than remove it prior to polishing this guy grinds it all into the paint. Makes absolutely no sense. Reminds me of the guys from days of yore that would compound off overspray rather than remove it properly.
 
ShineShop said:
I don't understand the mentality - car covered with bonded contaminants and fallout and rather than remove it prior to polishing this guy grinds it all into the paint. Makes absolutely no sense. Reminds me of the guys from days of yore that would compound off overspray rather than remove it properly.
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LOL, nice. I see what you did there!:bigups
 
mikenap said:
LOL, nice. I see what you did there!:bigups
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That actually wasn't a shot at you know who from the other thread. We still encounter knuckleheads that think this is an acceptable technique. Just had a car a while back covered in tar splatter that another guy had quoted $300 to "compound" the tar all off..... ***? I cannot imagine how anyone could think that was the easiest, safest or fastest way to fix the problem let alone tell a customer that.
 
I'm new to detailing, about 8 months in $2K in products but I though clay was suppose to help you in polishing not set you back sometime. I mean the dirtier the paint is the fast the pad gets dirty. The less cut the pad has due to being it clogged the longer the you have to work the pad. I do own both a PC and Rotary, and about all popular pads including wools ever made but I've never seen a single pad take on a whole car. Can someone link to his website, I really want to take a look at what he does, Dr. Paint Xpert I elect you to do a write-up so we may observe and learn from your time saving methods. Surely we are doing it wrong if it takes us a day or two for what you can do in 3 hours and I am being deadly serious I would like to see documentation if you would not mind.
 
hamza7 said:
I'm new to detailing, about 8 months in $2K in products but I though clay was suppose to help you in polishing not set you back sometime. I mean the dirtier the paint is the fast the pad gets dirty. The less cut the pad has due to being it clogged the longer the you have to work the pad. I do own both a PC and Rotary, and about all popular pads including wools ever made but I've never seen a single pad take on a whole car. Can someone link to his website, I really want to take a look at what he does, Dr. Paint Xpert I elect you to do a write-up so we may observe and learn from your time saving methods. Surely we are doing it wrong if it takes us a day or two for what you can do in 3 hours and I am being deadly serious I would like to see documentation if you would not mind.
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I found his website... and was going through the pictures till I saw this...then I just laughed.



Advanced Auto Polishing



Go to his pictures, drop down menu then the picture called "Black - My Specialty." See who else spots the funny.
 
MachNU said:
I found his website... and was going through the pictures till I saw this...then I just laughed.



Advanced Auto Polishing



Go to his pictures, drop down menu then the picture called "Black - My Specialty." See who else spots the funny.
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That website looks like it's straight out of the 1990's. My favorite part:



"Persons or companies using the Advanced Auto Polishing name, logo, copy, and/or invisible garage registered trademark, without written permission will be penalized to full extent of the law."



I'm sure people are just lining up to infringe on his "trademarks"
 
ShineShop said:
That actually wasn't a shot at you know who from the other thread. We still encounter knuckleheads that think this is an acceptable technique. Just had a car a while back covered in tar splatter that another guy had quoted $300 to "compound" the tar all off..... ***? I cannot imagine how anyone could think that was the easiest, safest or fastest way to fix the problem let alone tell a customer that.
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I guess some people are just taught one way to do things and refuse to learn anything different. I'd hate to see what the final result of tar compounded off looks like.
 
At least when it comes to my own vehicles, I'm only interested in improving technique. If time savings is an added benefit, that is great. I would never want to cut corners and risk not doing something with the best results I can produce.I fear many time saving-focused only techniques run the risk of doing this.



It all depends on the situation and the vehicle involved.
 
mikenap said:
I guess some people are just taught one way to do things and refuse to learn anything different. I'd hate to see what the final result of tar compounded off looks like.
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The guy told the customer that the heat from the buffing pad would melt the tar off. Sounds legit to me
 
ShineShop said:
Reminds me of the guys from days of yore that would compound off overspray rather than remove it properly.
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Days of yore? I only wish. Well, actually I don't. Do a lot of swirl removal thanks to body shops who prefer to use a wool pad then a glaze to hide the swirls when they remove overspray. :lol
 
MachNU said:
Go to his pictures, drop down menu then the picture called "Black - My Specialty." See who else spots the funny.
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What about the '57 Chevy with the bottles of products and the rotary laying on the hood?



"Discipline and experience with every detail"
 
Scottwax said:
What about the '57 Chevy with the bottles of products and the rotary laying on the hood?



"Discipline and experience with every detail"
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I stopped at the Prowler one lol. Just saw yours. Yeah thats awesome. On top of buffing the black paint in the direct sun...he is also just setting the buffer/bottles on the paint lol.
 
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