Question about a base detail, not full correction.

The Megs 66 doesn't seem to want to come out of the pad. I've tried the brush and have less than stellar results. I use the product sparingly, but it makes the pads unusable for anything else.



I'll try with the megs yellow, but i'm very close to just getting rid of the 66. I have a full gallon and haven't been happy with it.







Question on the 151.... Do you guys follow that with a LSP, or does it act as the LSP too?
 
Setec Astronomy said:
It seems like the D151 suggestion is a good one.
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If you are doing 1 step PC details, yes. Rotary? No, D151 will hologram even with a finishing pad on softer paints. Via PC though, it is an excellent product and seems to have decent cut.
 
My one step process ALWAYS consists of a polish then wax/sealant... I never found the AIO's to work good enough for me so I basically do a little experimenting for 20-30 mins on the hood or roof to see what will give me the best balance between a LSP ready finish and enough swirl removal... I always lean toward LSP ready finish because then I have a great finish with some swirls whereas if I went for more swirl removal, I would be left with a worse finish and still swirls left over...



On harder paints it's usually something like M80/9006 or M82/8006 and softer or ss paints M82/9006 106ff/LC white... again, I choose only after experimenting a few combos on the hood or roof



Hope that helps.
 
Scottwax said:
If you are doing 1 step PC details, yes. Rotary? No, D151 will hologram even with a finishing pad on softer paints. Via PC though, it is an excellent product and seems to have decent cut.
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what would be a good one step rotory polish?
 
David703 said:
what would be a good one step rotory polish?
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3M Ultrafina or Optimum Finish. However, neither is going to remove much in the way of defects. If the car is in good condition though, you will definitely amp up the gloss. I've been playing around with Optimum Finish using a blue Swirlbuster finishing pad and the look is absolutely incredible. Zero holograms as an added bonus. I've used it on the last 4 cars I've done, supposed to rain the next 3 days so I should have time to resize, upload and make a thread.
 
Long lasting glaze/very light polish is the key - don't make the existing finish worse with an aggressive polishing, just amp up the gloss until the dealer is happy and "do no harm".



Auto Magic BC2 is a good pick here, Ultrafina will do it too. M66 is a hit or miss, it will leave holograms that come back on darker paints. I only really use it on silver or white vehicles, anything darker gets Ultrafina on a blue LC.
 
The problem I see with using Ultrafina here is it's not a cheap product to just toss around for a dealer car. You're looking at almost $70/qt retail. I think alot of the other cheaper products already listed here are more suited to your needs in this situation.
 
Jakerooni said:
The problem I see with using Ultrafina here is it's not a cheap product to just toss around for a dealer car. You're looking at almost $70/qt retail. I think alot of the other cheaper products already listed here are more suited to your needs in this situation.
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Then if a finishing polish is the answer, it must be M205 or Optimum Finish, both around $95/gal
 
Jakerooni said:
The problem I see with using Ultrafina here is it's not a cheap product to just toss around for a dealer car. You're looking at almost $70/qt retail. I think alot of the other cheaper products already listed here are more suited to your needs in this situation.
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$70 a quart? Last one I bought from my local distributor this past fall cost me $30.



Optimum Poli-Seal also works well with a finishing pad via rotary. Again, you aren't going to get a lot of cut but it will leave a wet, glossy, hologram free finish that is good to go once you wipe off the excess.
 
Scottwax said:
$70 a quart? Last one I bought from my local distributor this past fall cost me $30.
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Hopefully not too far OT, but you must be using the US version (Perfect-It 3000) as opposed to the UK stuff that PakShak was selling (Perfect-It III). It was my understanding that the UK polish and the UK 6" pad was the shiznitts, while the US polish and 8" pad (that both AG and CMA seem to be selling now) were more so-so.
 
The cheapest I've ever been able to pick up UF SE is $54/qt and that was supposed to be wholesale. I know if I had to go pick it up off the shelf here it's $68 on up. Where the heck are you getting it so cheap? I want in.
 
Bookmarked and thanks!! I seriosuly mean that too you have no idea how much cash you just saved me over a years time. Anyone know if they ever plan on making the UF blue pad for the edge2000 system?
 
Jakerooni said:
Bookmarked and thanks!! I seriosuly mean that too you have no idea how much cash you just saved me over a years time. Anyone know if they ever plan on making the UF blue pad for the edge2000 system?
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Anything for a former GM engineer! (in another life I wanted to go to GMI...that was the last time I was in Flint) As far as the Edge/3M dirt, call these guys and ask them if they are are going to make those pads: getiapstuff.com
 
Jakerooni said:
The cheapest I've ever been able to pick up UF SE is $54/qt and that was supposed to be wholesale. I know if I had to go pick it up off the shelf here it's $68 on up. Where the heck are you getting it so cheap? I want in.
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English Color and Supply in Grand Prarie (TX). Their regular price when I bought my last quart (in September) was $35 but they sell it to me and other pros for $30. The pads are $15 each.
 
why rotary a one step? I know lots of people who keep the rotary in the bag unless there are going to be at least two steps, if not 3-5...IMO, you just increase the risk of holograms, and that always goes noticed/remembered?



personally, I would rather remove a little more and still finish down with more gloss and slightly more defect removal...PC/5.5" orange or white (depending on paint type) then just have a couple of one steps in your arsenal....I have 66, poliseal, and 151



66 - for more oxidation removal

poliseal for a better than average finish

151 for more cut/slight oxidation
 
toyotaguy said:
why rotary a one step?
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2nd G110 bit the dust on Saturday and I couldn't get it swapped out until today. I didn't have much choice but was pleased how well Optimum Finish performed. 4 vehicles, not a single hologram that I could find with them in the sun.



Now that I have a working G110 again and hopefully the 3rd time is the charm, I probably won't be doing a lot of rotary 1 steps. ;)
 
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