Protected Leather Care Confusion

D

dfoxengr

New member
So I read the wiki regarding leather type, care, etc.

I am confused about protected leather and proper care.



My understanding is that it only needs to be cleaned with a leather cleaner and then you can ist some water/wipe off to have the vapor be absorbed through the urethane coating to renew the moisture in the hide.



I haven't done much leather care and I only have Meg's Gold Class leather cleaner/conditioner spray.

I am unsure what is in this product and if I should continue using it. Is there anything that will clog the urethane pores so the moisture can't then be reabsorbed?



What's with Leatherique being so popular, it seems, if most leathers are protected? Is there a need for this product to do any rejuvenation of the hide (can it even penetrate urethane)?:wacko:



As usual, thanks in advance.
 
Fox, what kind of car are you working? What sort of shape is the leather in? Does it get hot where you live? How old is the subject car?
 
I was really just looking for general information because I wasn't seeing advice for protecting finished leather.



As far as knowing the leather type and that it is leather? I would follow the little tests the wiki discusses, fingernail/water drop. And if I were working on a car like a BMW or similar, I would think that it is not pleather.



I live in NC, it gets pretty hot and humid here.
 
What's with Leatherique being so popular, it seems, if most leathers are protected?



The idea of applying the conditioner, allowing time for it to work in a heated environment, before it can be cleaned off which is then rewarded by the rather odd fact that you have to then clean the leather in a secondary stage is really rather odd, and is reminiscent of the Saddle Soap process, used in the equine saddle and bridle industry, before it can begin to clean it must first dissolve its own oils, which limits its capacity to dissolve dirt and oils in the leather, and I can see no technical reason for applying a product in this way. Introducing solvent-based conditioners accelerates aging in leather upholstery and trim. One of the components in the formulation of Rejuvenator Oil is Dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) a fairly strong solvent



Top-grain premium leather is mostly used in prestige European automobiles; Aston Martin, Bentley, Ferrari, Jaguar, Lotus, and Rolls Royce, US Cadillac and high-end German automobiles such as; Audi, BMW, Daimler AG, Mercedes-Benz, and Porsche, for most of these vehicles premium leather is standard OEM specified equipment, but for most it’s a ‘premium’ package that costs upwards of 2,000 USD . This is the niche market sector both Leatherique and Connolly were originally formulated for.



Is there a need for this product to do any rejuvenation of the hide (can it even penetrate urethane)?



Urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation; always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself



“Once the coating gets a little age, and microscopic cracks form, the leather can soak up some thinner conditioners” This questionable logic is sometimes used to validate the use of conditioners on (urethane) finished leather upholstery.
 
Fox, if we're just remaining generic, search on Leatherique at this forum. There are numerous write-ups with that product showing befores/afters. Can be dramatic where/when it's needed.
 
Tom, I will do some more searching, I was trying to figure out if it was needed on say BMW leather. I forsee myself treating some of that.



TOGWT- I just want to confirm that on a protected leather, just a water wipe and possible "mild"(meg's gold class?) cleaner/conditioner is used, that won't be a problem. Should I do the water wipre before or after the cleaner?
 
dfoxengr said:
I was trying to figure out if it was needed on say BMW leather.
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I'd say it depends upon how old the car is and how the leather has been cared to date.
 
dfoxengr said:
I was really just looking for general information because I wasn't seeing advice for protecting finished leather.



As far as knowing the leather type and that it is leather? I would follow the little tests the wiki discusses, fingernail/water drop. And if I were working on a car like a BMW or similar, I would think that it is not pleather.



I live in NC, it gets pretty hot and humid here.
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BMW offers leather and leatherette.
 
Haha, I am so confused. D&D, please let's assume it is leather. I would like to learn this stuff so that when I come across the answer to what material is used I know what to do.



Can anyone answer:

Does protected leather really only need a water wipe to reabsorb some moisture and keep the leather itself in good shape like the Wiki says?

If not, does Leatherique play a role in any protected leather care (is it even compatible)? Will it even get through the urethane to the hide? Because everyone says, deal with the surface, but then the wiki says that small amounts can get through the urethane surface.
 
[also i wouldnt trust everything from wiki. Its not a reliable source.] - PhatHoodDetail



As a long term Wikipedia contributor I would concur that some information is ‘less than factual’. However if you’re talking about the Autopia Wiki that’s another matter ;)



I would suggest that you choose carefully whose advice you listen to, and more importantly what advice you act upon. The misinformation and myths that are so prevalent in the detail industry is the reason that detailers need to do research on their own. Treat all marketing claims as being just biased marketing claims and if you're lucky they will be based on truth and the company will operate ethically.



I would strongly suggest that you verify any information that I or anyone else shares with you. It is the individual’s responsibility to confirm the information supplied and apply it to their situation.
 
TOGWT, I am referring to the autopia wiki, which I know you probably wrote. What I'm asking is for some help with a gap you've left there about how to care for protected leather beyond wiping it with water.
 
dfoxengr said:
Haha, I am so confused. D&D, please let's assume it is leather. I would like to learn this stuff so that when I come across the answer to what material is used I know what to do.



Can anyone answer:

Does protected leather really only need a water wipe to reabsorb some moisture and keep the leather itself in good shape like the Wiki says?

If not, does Leatherique play a role in any protected leather care (is it even compatible)? Will it even get through the urethane to the hide? Because everyone says, deal with the surface, but then the wiki says that small amounts can get through the urethane surface.
Click to expand...



I think its just as important to be able to identify whether its leather or not. Then, if it is leather, what type. When it comes to protected leather, you aren't dealing with the hide itself, but the protective coating on top. There are TONS of threads on leather care here. Look at posts from judyb.
 
dfoxengr said:
TOGWT, I am referring to the autopia wiki, which I know you probably wrote. What I'm asking is for some help with a gap you've left there about how to care for protected leather beyond wiping it with water.
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Leather care / cleaning worksheet



There is a great deal of conflicting information on leather care being put out by leather experts themselves who use baffling pseudo scientific techno speak as another marketing ploy, which makes it difficult to find a definitive, unbiased answer.



Here is one definitive truth –you are dealing with the leathers finish, not the hide itself.



Step 1 - “Leather Upholstery Type Surface Identification” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopi...ther-upholstery;-surface-identification.html#



Step2 - Once you have identified the type of leather finish proceed to the relevant article



Step 3 -“Leather Articles Hyperlinks” http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/141973-leather-articles-hyperlinks.html



Unless a Premium Leather option was purchased Isocyanate based ethyl carbamate (urethane) finished leather upholstery is used by 95% as OEM in modern (post ’95) automobiles. It comprises a multi stratum acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system covering over the leather hide; the top strata are the surface pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather.



The use of oils, replacement of fat liquor, oil-based conditioning, proteins or the adjustment of pH levels is totally unnecessary; the surface is a urethane that contains pigmentation (colour) it neither needs or benefits from any of the above



1. “Basic 3- Step Leather Care” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/141984-basic-3-step-leather-care.html



2. “Proper Finished Leather Cleaning and Care” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/136421-proper-finished-leather-cleaning-care.html



3. “Hydration of Finished Leather” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/141382-hydration-finished-leather.html



4. “Removing Stains from Leather” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/138225-removing-stains-leather.html



5. “Various Leather Surface Conditions and Correction” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopi...ous-leather-surface-conditions-correction.htm





I hope the information in these articles is of some help to you. If you have any further questions please let me know
 
dfoxengr said:
Haha, I am so confused. D&D, please let's assume it is leather. I would like to learn this stuff so that when I come across the answer to what material is used I know what to do.



Can anyone answer:

Does protected leather really only need a water wipe to reabsorb some moisture and keep the leather itself in good shape like the Wiki says?

If not, does Leatherique play a role in any protected leather care (is it even compatible)? Will it even get through the urethane to the hide? Because everyone says, deal with the surface, but then the wiki says that small amounts can get through the urethane surface.
Click to expand...



It also has micro-pores that allow evaporation and hydration (the passage of water vapour through a membrane or pore) they are not sealed per se.



Leatherequi is not considered a water vapour
 
If you're after a product that is safe & effective on pretty much every kind of leather (or seat for that matter) I would suggest going with HD TOTAL. The only thing it isn't designed for is Kind Ranch aniline style absorbant leather.
 
It's pretty amazing how well (quality) leather will hold up with minimal treatment if you also minimize the *abuse* by simply keeping it clean. You don't want to know how seldom I do anything to the leather in my daily drivers...they just don't need much and as they're getting pretty old I can confidently say that this works for me long-term.



These days I just clean it and (very rarely) apply leather protection using stuff from Leather Doctor, Leather Master, or Sonus. About as minimal as leather care could be, but it works fine for me. And it's not like these vehicles are all that pampered, consider daily dog-hauling (Tahoe), and transporting non-Autopian family/friends (A8).



Heh heh, OK...the '01 S8 *is* pampered, but I've only treated its leather two or three times from new.
 
dfoxengr said:
Haha, I am so confused. D&D, please let's assume it is leather. I would like to learn this stuff so that when I come across the answer to what material is used I know what to do.



Can anyone answer:

Does protected leather really only need a water wipe to reabsorb some moisture and keep the leather itself in good shape like the Wiki says?

If not, does Leatherique play a role in any protected leather care (is it even compatible)? Will it even get through the urethane to the hide? Because everyone says, deal with the surface, but then the wiki says that small amounts can get through the urethane surface.
Click to expand...



CONTROVERSIAL and a very debated with no clear conclusion on how to approach it.



1. So many different types of leathers on the market and then you add a lot of different top coats that makes it IMPOSSIBLE to make a product that will work for everyone.

2. A lot of people think they have leather, and really have a combo of leather and leatherette (bolsters etc).

3. High high end cars may have unprotected leathers.

4. Manufacturers use both leather and leatherette or combo of both. Don't think just because you have a BMW or Mercedes etc. that it's automatically leather and vice versa.. lower end manufacturers could use real leather.. Don't think just because a manufacturer says it's leather that it's 100% leather through the entire seating surface.

5. Then there is the added complication of perforiated leather. Product ingress into the holes can really damage leather, use a foam based product with a sponge ideally.



The general agreement is to use a damp water wet microfiber and clean often to avoid dirt build up that will with constant rubbing of your clothing will abraid the surface..



As for protectant... you have either use something like 303 with high UV protectant and doesn't attract dirt or leave well alone and just clean.



As for conditioning, very complicated if it's helpful (soften - leatherique etc) or harmful (if it breaks down the clear coat). Matter of personal preference. Really, its a matter of trying it and see if it works for your type of leather. Any solvent based product, will have a high degree of likelihood that it degrades the clearcoat; for stiff leather.. that might be a desirable outcome even though you may be compromising the finish.. sort of like polishing a clear coat finish on your cars paint to get rid of swirls. Sure you've thinned the clear but only enough that it still protects the paint and is defect free. The more you use a solvent on a coated leather.. the more you taking off the protecting finish. Eventually, it could become an issue..
 
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