Products you will need before you start your own detailing service.

Detailing NY

New member
I got a few emails on what people should buy to start a detailing service. Below is a list of things that i could think of off the top of my head.



EXTERIOR DETAILING SUPPLIES

1. Buckets

2. Wash mitts

3. Soap

4. Tire & Wheel brushes

5. Clay

6. Water blades

7. Wheel dressing

8. Micro fiber drying towels

9. Window cleaner

10. Compound

11. Swirl mark remover

12. Polish

13. Wax

14. Paint sealant

15. Chrome & metal polish

16. Molding restorer

17. Bug & tar remover

18. Degreaser

19. Dual action polisher (porter cable)

20. Rotary machine (Makita)

21. Pads for all machines and products

22. Extension cords

23. Q-tips

24. Tooth picks



INTERIOR DETAILING SUPPLIES

1. All purpose cleaner plus

2. Carpet brushes

3. Wet/Dry vacuum

4. Leather cleaner & conditioner

5. Vinyl cleaner & dressing

6. Plastic cleaner & dressing

7. Q-tips

8. Tooth picks

9. Detailing brushes

10. Window cleaner

11. Micro fiber towels

12. Air freshener
 
Yikes! The scary part is, most of us probably have 90% of all that stuff... just in smaller amounts.
 
the all purpose cleaner plus is a cleaner that cleans just about anything.

carpets, vinyl, wheels, tires, wax remover, etc....
 
Things I dont have...yet.



Exterior

10. Compound

11. Swirl mark remover

17. Bug & tar remover

18. Degreaser

20. Rotary machine (Makita)



Interior

4. Leather cleaner & conditioner

6. Plastic cleaner & dressing

12. Air freshener





I finished doing my friends Toyota truck yesterday and 2 other people came up and asked how much I would charge to do their car. Im kicking myself really really hard because I didnt take pictures. I would say it was a dramatic change and the shine was great. Some of the carpet stains are still there because I dont have the right vacuum attachment for sucking up water.



I used almost everything you listed but my question is can DACP be used for the compound/SMR and APC+ for a degreaser/bug and tar remover? For leather, im trying Lexol products. I dont know anyone close to me with a leather interior so I have no experience doing it. What are you using for plastic cleaner/conditioner? Can Meguiars #40 substitute it? Where do you get your air fresheners? A place I used to work at ordered it from Auto Magic and it came in gallons. I think you had to mix them with water. Thanks.
 
NY Detailer,



I just want to compliment you on your posts. They are very thorough and extremely helpful!



Thanks for sharing! :)
 
Sweeet, that's a very helpful post. You're the man.



I've got almost all of that stuff now :cool: except for the rotary and tar/bug remover... oh well



FNG, on the CMA page for EFHI (http://www.properautocare.com/hi-c32.html ) it says it can be used full strength for tar & asphalt, tree sap, and adhesive residues. I guess that means I've got a bug/tar remover too then. I need more of this stuff... its good for everything!
 
FNG said:


I used almost everything you listed but my question is can DACP be used for the compound/SMR and APC+ for a degreaser/bug and tar remover? For leather, im trying Lexol products. I dont know anyone close to me with a leather interior so I have no experience doing it. What are you using for plastic cleaner/conditioner? Can Meguiars #40 substitute it? Where do you get your air fresheners? A place I used to work at ordered it from Auto Magic and it came in gallons. I think you had to mix them with water. Thanks.



I have used DACP a few times but I really dont remember the results I got with it. All i remember is that it is a pain in the butt to remove.



APC+ would be a great degreaser for you. I have never used it for bug & tar but I think it might work.

This could also be used to clean plastic and then i would top of with #40.



Hope this helps you out.

NYD
 
Polaris said:
Toothpicks. Hmm, what for...?



I use them to get the grime that builds up around the screws on the door sills of Suburbans and GM trucks, as well as the screws inside the door handles of the same vehicles.



Brian-next time you use DACP, make sure you work it until nearly clear and dry, then it will wipe off with no effort.
 
I use a little swirl free with my dacp for help with removal. May I add a air compressor for the list of equipment needed. I use mine to get the water out of crevices,moldings,etc. Also, for cleaning vents, in between seats, seat tracks, tracks in minivans, etc.
 
I don't really understand the difference between DACP and any swirl remover. When do you use DACP and when do you use a different product?
 
Nitrous115 said:
I don't really understand the difference between DACP and any swirl remover. When do you use DACP and when do you use a different product?



DACP is more aggressive. You use it when a swirl remover isn't strong enough to accomplish what you are looking for.
 
Cleaning paint and removing contaminants are two different things. Someone recently used the analogy about skin and splinters. Would you rather rub alcohol over it or use a splinter to pull it out, then use alcohol?
 
One way i can think of the difference between DACP and clay is this funny way.



Think of your feet.......

If you have dried feet and use cream over them (dacp) they feel better but within a few minutes they are dry again and need more dacp.

but if you use a foot stone on your feet (clay) and remove the some of the skin (contaminats) then apply cream (dacp) the feet stay nice and smooth.



This is my sick way of explaining it to you. Hope this helps :)
 
Nitrous115 said:
So there would be no point in using clay before dacp because dacp is also a cleaner?
Here’s my try at an understandable explanation:



DACP, as well as SMR, GEPC, etc. are abrasives and do their cleaning and polishing by grinding down the surface - much like sandpaper.



Clay is not an abrasive (with a few exceptions such as red Clay Magic). The clay’s primary job is to pull embedded contaminants from the paint, much like pulling a splinter with tweezers. Clay also removes trash (that’s the technical term) that has become bonded to the paint’s surface - such as mineral deposits from hard water, tree sap, insect excrement, etc. - but won’t do anything for the etching that these things may have caused - that’s the job of the abrasives.



If you use a compound, polish, or cleaner (the names of all automotive care products are confusing and not well defined) before claying, then there won’t be any protrusions remaining for the clay to grab and pull out. If the embedded debris is metallic, such as brake or rail dust, there is still the possibility of rust spotting.



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