Priming and 205?

B

bbquer

New member
I was using a spray bottle with a solution of car wash and water instead of the usual QD. (maybe becasue i'm too cheap)

I'm using the Megiuars's clay bar, but the clay bar seems to be breaking down into smaller pieces when i using the car wash solution. Am i using too strong of a solution?

This doesn't happen when i use FI.

How much car wash am i suppose to mix in a 16oz spary bottle ?
 
I have used Meguiar's clay before (with lube and car wash,) and finds it does break down and leaves a lot of residue. I now use Mother's Clay Kit and it doesn't have this problem.
 
I am familiar with 105 and priming, KB-tightness etc. But I havent experimented with using 205 and a primed finishing pad. Same principals as the 105 method? I would think you need far less product saturation because you need less cut. Also with a primed finishing pad and 205 are you able to cut more while leaving the same glossy finish LSP ready?

Any help would be appreciated :wink:
 
The important points

? Proper priming of the pad
? Consistent pressure
? Clean or change pads often

The product used is a non-diminishing, heavy cut compound, applied with a 6 ? inch LC CCS Orange Light Cutting or Yellow Cutting flat foam pads with a semi-rigid Velcro? backing plate (to ensure maximum abrasive used over minimum area) and ensure that pad is clean by removing paint / polish debris regularly or replace

Like all linear abrasive compounds or polishes, they require a correctly primed pad, to ensure sufficient product, the use of consistently applied pressure to ensure abrasive contact with the paint surface, this ensures constant surface contact. Linear abrasives require that you work the product until you achieve the desired finish.
 
TOGWT said:
The important points

? Proper priming of the pad
? Consistent pressure
? Clean or change pads often

The product used is a non-diminishing, heavy cut compound, applied with a 6 ? inch LC CCS Orange Light Cutting or Yellow Cutting flat foam pads with a semi-rigid Velcro? backing plate (to ensure maximum abrasive used over minimum area) and ensure that pad is clean by removing paint / polish debris regularly or replace

Like all linear abrasive compounds or polishes, they require a correctly primed pad, to ensure sufficient product, the use of consistently applied pressure to ensure abrasive contact with the paint surface, this ensures constant surface contact. Linear abrasives require that you work the product until you achieve the desired finish.
Click to expand...

Thank you TOG, but I think that is the M105 process, in which case I already follow those guidelines and use the orange cutting pad.

I was curious about M205 finishing polish and the priming of a finishing pad.
 
Pad Priming, The micro nondiminishing abrasives from Meguiar's require that the pores of the pad are evenly primed with product for fastest cutting and highest gloss. It is recommended to prime a fresh, dry pad one of three ways,
The KBM way, Apply a liberal amount of polish on the surface of the pad and massage the product into the pores with your fingers until the surface is covered in a fine film of polish. Remove excess polish from the pad, so that it feels slightly damp, by lightly pressing a cotton terry or microfiber cloth against the pad while it spins.
Meguiar's M34, Meguiar's recommends misting the dry pad with M34 Final Inspection, then draw two lines of the product ( X ), across the diameter of the pad. M34 will help the polish spread across the pad during the initial polishing application.
Hybrid Way, ProperAutoCare.com recommends using a hybrid pad priming system to save on material costs and increase ease of use. Mist the dry pad with M34 Final Inspection then draw an X across the pad. Quickly massage the polishing with your fingers into the pad and cover as much surface as possible.
Regardless of the priming method you choose, once the pad has been primed, apply a small amount of polish to the pad between sections. Any way you prime your pad should work with the M205 Dave, I just use a little less polish on the pad and haven't had any problems. But remember the cut is from the pad more then the polish (M205). Hopes this helps.......Angelo
 
Street Dreams said:
I am familiar with 105 and priming, KB-tightness etc. But I havent experimented with using 205 and a primed finishing pad. Same principals as the 105 method? I would think you need far less product saturation because you need less cut. Also with a primed finishing pad and 205 are you able to cut more while leaving the same glossy finish LSP ready?

Any help would be appreciated :wink:
Click to expand...

I always prime my finishing pad with M205. True I use less product than with M105. I have found that M205 on a primed finishing pad is excellent for removing hazing and trails left by M105 (if any).

There are those who say that a finer polish is needed after 205. I've not found that to be true! Although I haven't inspected it under the microscope, M205 has always given me a very nice finish.:D
 
zoomzoom mazda5 said:
Pad Priming, The micro nondiminishing abrasives from Meguiar's require that the pores of the pad are evenly primed with product for fastest cutting and highest gloss. It is recommended to prime a fresh, dry pad one of three ways,
The KBM way, Apply a liberal amount of polish on the surface of the pad and massage the product into the pores with your fingers until the surface is covered in a fine film of polish. Remove excess polish from the pad, so that it feels slightly damp, by lightly pressing a cotton terry or microfiber cloth against the pad while it spins.
Meguiar's M34, Meguiar's recommends misting the dry pad with M34 Final Inspection, then draw two lines of the product ( X ), across the diameter of the pad. M34 will help the polish spread across the pad during the initial polishing application.
Hybrid Way, ProperAutoCare.com recommends using a hybrid pad priming system to save on material costs and increase ease of use. Mist the dry pad with M34 Final Inspection then draw an X across the pad. Quickly massage the polishing with your fingers into the pad and cover as much surface as possible.
Regardless of the priming method you choose, once the pad has been primed, apply a small amount of polish to the pad between sections. Any way you prime your pad should work with the M205 Dave, I just use a little less polish on the pad and haven't had any problems. But remember the cut is from the pad more then the polish (M205). Hopes this helps.......Angelo
Click to expand...

Angelo or others how many panels will you do before changing the pad?
 
Street Dreams said:
Thank you TOG, but I think that is the M105 process, in which case I already follow those guidelines and use the orange cutting pad.

I was curious about M205 finishing polish and the priming of a finishing pad.
Click to expand...

As has been eluded too the pad priming process is the same for both non-diminishing products (105/205)
 
Street Dreams said:
I am familiar with 105 and priming, KB-tightness etc. But I havent experimented with using 205 and a primed finishing pad. Same principals as the 105 method? I would think you need far less product saturation because you need less cut. Also with a primed finishing pad and 205 are you able to cut more while leaving the same glossy finish LSP ready?

Any help would be appreciated :wink:
Click to expand...

Yes, priming the pad with M205 will help you achieve a more flawless finish. But here is the key....

If you want to produce a microhaze/hologram free finish with M205 cut your work time WAY down... When I finish with M205 I usually use a 15-20 second pass, that's it. You can not refine the finish by working the product longer as you can with a diminishing abrasive. In fact over working the polish will start to errode the quality of the finish that you are leaving, instead of enhancing it.

The longer it is worked (which obviously increases the cutting) the lower the potential of finish, although its not a big deal, because it really only takes 30-45 minutes (work 15-20 second a pass) to completely final polish the paint.

15-20 second pass with steady pressure and wipe clean.

 
th0001 said:
Yes, priming the pad with M205 will help you achieve a more flawless finish. But here is the key....

If you want to produce a microhaze/hologram free finish with M205 cut your work time WAY down... When I finish with M205 I usually use a 15-20 second pass, that's it. You can not refine the finish by working the product longer as you can with a diminishing abrasive. In fact over working the polish will start to errode the quality of the finish that you are leaving, instead of enhancing it.

The longer it is worked (which obviously increases the cutting) the lower the potential of finish, although its not a big deal, because it really only takes 30-45 minutes (work 15-20 second a pass) to completely final polish the paint.

15-20 second pass with steady pressure and wipe clean.

Click to expand...

Thanks Todd. Good info! :thumbup:
 
Junebug said:
Thanks Todd, makes perfect sense - just tough to un-learn the Menzerna way!
Click to expand...

Boy isn't that the truth. I've been so conditioned to work the diminishing abrasives down that it's tough to fathom a 15 second pass but like you said, makes perfect sense. Thanks guys.
 
Just to clarify a couple of questions:

1) Are most of you talking about achieving a perfect finish with M205 using a rotary, RO (e.g., PC), or DA (e.g., Flex)? I noticed the M205 instructions suggest a higher gloss can be had from an RO rather than a rotary.

2) The M205 instructions, and most comments I've seen on the internet until lately, say you should lighten pressure and slow the machine down for the last passes. Have people discovered this is not necessary? Does this advice hold true for all types of machines?

Thanks,
Billy
 
wfedwar said:
Just to clarify a couple of questions:

1) Are most of you talking about achieving a perfect finish with M205 using a rotary, RO (e.g., PC), or DA (e.g., Flex)? I noticed the M205 instructions suggest a higher gloss can be had from an RO rather than a rotary.

2) The M205 instructions, and most comments I've seen on the internet until lately, say you should lighten pressure and slow the machine down for the last passes. Have people discovered this is not necessary? Does this advice hold true for all types of machines?

Thanks,
Billy
Click to expand...

I am referring to using 205 with a DA machine, not a rotary. In my brief testing with the rotary I really did not like the results had with 205, granted I may not have given it a fair shot.

On the DA however it really works well, and yes I always lighten pressure and speed for the last few passes, even if someone scientifically proved to me tomorrow that its totally unnecessary... I would still do it because it feels natural to me.
 
After re learning the polishing techniques using M105 with much success I have finally decided to pop the cherry with M205. I as well have read about 20 different ways to finish down with M205. This thread has been very helpfull but there still are questions that linger. First, I just can't seem to pick up my PC and take it seriously. I mean come on, it still is a DA and after hundreds of hours with a rotary it is just tough to look at the PC and not still see 4 times the work.

So this is what I would love to see!!!:biggrin: Todd and one of his famous videos showing us these 15 to 20 second passes. IF I could achieve results in so little time I really dont know whether I would cry or just be freaking thrilled.

So what do you say Todd? or any of you M205 experts. Just a short how too.:o
 
fergnation said:
After re learning the polishing techniques using M105 with much success I have finally decided to pop the cherry with M205. I as well have read about 20 different ways to finish down with M205. This thread has been very helpfull but there still are questions that linger. First, I just can't seem to pick up my PC and take it seriously. I mean come on, it still is a DA and after hundreds of hours with a rotary it is just tough to look at the PC and not still see 4 times the work.

So this is what I would love to see!!!:biggrin: Todd and one of his famous videos showing us these 15 to 20 second passes. IF I could achieve results in so little time I really dont know whether I would cry or just be freaking thrilled.

So what do you say Todd? or any of you M205 experts. Just a short how too.:o
Click to expand...

F' the how to, I finished down a hard paint bentley using the methods desribed above by Todd and he was dead on (rare, huh:rofl:), literally 20-25 seconds of finishing with a soft foam and your done. Great gloss, butter like buff off and thats it! I finished down that entire car very very quickly and I bet I couldn't have enhanced the gloss more than 5% if I spent 4hrs jeweling it down with the rotary.
 
Street Dreams said:
F' the how to, I finished down a hard paint bentley using the methods desribed above by Todd and he was dead on (rare, huh:rofl:), literally 20-25 seconds of finishing with a soft foam and your done. Great gloss, butter like buff off and thats it! I finished down that entire car very very quickly and I bet I couldn't have enhanced the gloss more than 5% if I spent 4hrs jeweling it down with the rotary.
Click to expand...

Dont you just love the thickness of the paint on a Bentley. I swear they should measure that stuff in inches instead of mils.

Did you do a 2 step with 105? You see, I just can't grasp the fact that I can get away with a 2 step in such a time saving manner. But I just received the first gallon of 205 yesterday and now that I am in bed I wont be able to sleep. :rofl: Screw it, I'm going out to the garage. I gotta see this.

Thanks
 
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