Priming and 205?

Dont you just love the thickness of the paint on a Bentley. I swear they should measure that stuff in inches instead of mils.

Did you do a 2 step with 105? You see, I just can't grasp the fact that I can get away with a 2 step in such a time saving manner. But I just received the first gallon of 205 yesterday and now that I am in bed I wont be able to sleep. :rofl: Screw it, I'm going out to the garage. I gotta see this.

Thanks

....bring extra tighty whiteys :devil:
 
Yes, priming the pad with M205 will help you achieve a more flawless finish. But here is the key....

If you want to produce a microhaze/hologram free finish with M205 cut your work time WAY down... When I finish with M205 I usually use a 15-20 second pass, that's it. You can not refine the finish by working the product longer as you can with a diminishing abrasive. In fact over working the polish will start to errode the quality of the finish that you are leaving, instead of enhancing it.

The longer it is worked (which obviously increases the cutting) the lower the potential of finish, although its not a big deal, because it really only takes 30-45 minutes (work 15-20 second a pass) to completely final polish the paint.

15-20 second pass with steady pressure and wipe clean.



I need to give this a shot!

I've had a few cars that when I finished with M205 it left VERY LIGHT micro marring with a black LC pad. I did 4 checkerboard passes with medium/heavy pressure on a speed of 6 followed by 2 passes with light pressure and speed of 5.
 
Just to clarify a couple of questions:

1) Are most of you talking about achieving a perfect finish with M205 using a rotary, RO (e.g., PC), or DA (e.g., Flex)? I noticed the M205 instructions suggest a higher gloss can be had from an RO rather than a rotary.

2) The M205 instructions, and most comments I've seen on the internet until lately, say you should lighten pressure and slow the machine down for the last passes. Have people discovered this is not necessary? Does this advice hold true for all types of machines?

Thanks,
Billy

Prime the pad with 205, spray just a mist of clean water(distilled,purified etc..) on the pad and wind up the speed with a pc or flex 5-6 and voila... depending on how much product is on the pad I have worked it for a little longer than Todd has but I will try his timeframe and see if I net better results.


Todd are your balls frozen yet.... Ryan said it was CCCCOOOOOOLLLLDDDDDD!!! where you guys are, 26 degrees in Nor Cal this morning(unbelievable!!!!) yet in Orlando Richie Carbone said it was 80 f-ng degrees..... so at least you have warmness to come home too Todd.
 
1)do not reduce pressure, it will cause micro marring.
2)I'll do a video freg, great to see you on the board!
3)yes Bob, I'm cold, ask Ryan about the shower lol
 
1)do not reduce pressure, it will cause micro marring.
2)I'll do a video freg, great to see you on the board!
3)yes Bob, I'm cold, ask Ryan about the shower lol

This is good to know, I was curious, do you need to apply the polish to the surface with the polisher at speeds 3-4 to spread it with this method, or do you just start polishing at speeds 5-6? You also have to spray a bit of distilled water on the pad after its primed with M205?
 
This is good to know, I was curious, do you need to apply the polish to the surface with the polisher at speeds 3-4 to spread it with this method, or do you just start polishing at speeds 5-6? You also have to spray a bit of distilled water on the pad after its primed with M205?

When using M105 or M205 with foam I do not spray any water on the pad or panel. Speed 6, constant firm pressure.
 
I usually do, but I do not think it really matters. You pad should carry enough polish from the priming.

Okay good enough, thanks! I shall try these procedures next week on my car.

I'm going to do (for the polishing part) prime the white CCS pad with M205, then apply a couple of blots of polish on the pad and start working it in. Then finish with a black LC flat pad, with M205 for priming and a couple blots of it for polishing using consistent pressure at speed 6 for about 15-20 seconds.
 
I think a few personal preferences that I use include

- Not spreading M105, it dries too fast and spreading isn't needed.

- Spreading 205, it can splatter a little easier [although a good prime handles this], but the M205 is worked for 15-20 seconds like you said and won't dry before you finish.

- Contant Pressure. I occassionally let up on the M105 near the end, but haven't found it to be more effective.
 
Okay good enough, thanks! I shall try these procedures next week on my car.

I'm going to do (for the polishing part) prime the white CCS pad with M205, then apply a couple of blots of polish on the pad and start working it in. Then finish with a black LC flat pad, with M205 for priming and a couple blots of it for polishing using consistent pressure at speed 6 for about 15-20 seconds.

I do not care for the CCS pads when using M105/205, I much prefer the LC flat pads that CMA sells. Depending on how hard the clear is on your car and the level of defects, you could start with an orange pad with M205 and then finish with black/M205.
 
When using M105 or M205 with foam I do not spray any water on the pad or panel. Speed 6, constant firm pressure.

"Constant firm pressure"...

I've got some good "fresh from the wrecker's" panels to practice on and the product has arrived:clap:

Using the old "pressing the PC on the scale" thing... would the correct amount be around 15lbs? Maybe RPS is a better measure? A couple of revolutions per second?

Same amount of pressure for the 205 as the 105?

I'm trying to get a handle on how much pressure.:huh:

Thanks!:)
 
"Constant firm pressure"...

I've got some good "fresh from the wrecker's" panels to practice on and the product has arrived:clap:

Using the old "pressing the PC on the scale" thing... would the correct amount be around 15lbs? Maybe RPS is a better measure? A couple of revolutions per second?

Same amount of pressure for the 205 as the 105?

I'm trying to get a handle on how much pressure.:huh:

Thanks!:)

Draw a line on your backing plate with a sharpie. Makes it easier to judge the rotation.

You can see my line here:

img2680d.jpg


When using M105 with an orange flat LC pad I like the rotation to be 1 or sometimes less per second. Hardness of clear and severity of the defects will also come into play. The harder the clear and the more severe the defects are, the more pressure is required. You always want to have the pad rotating CW. Yes you can push hard enough to have the pad stop and acually spin CCW. The later is not ideal.

With M205 and a white or black flat LC pad, about half of the pressure that you used with M205 should be fine.

This is trial and error, as stated above there are a few factors that come into play.
 
Excellent!!:clap: Thank you Bryan...

I always "line" my backing plates, makes it so much easier to tell what's going on, rotation wise.
I've never used the 105/205 combo before and your reply really helped... thanks again!!:)

I'm going to start on that panel when it warms up a bit today.
 
I do not care for the CCS pads when using M105/205, I much prefer the LC flat pads that CMA sells. Depending on how hard the clear is on your car and the level of defects, you could start with an orange pad with M205 and then finish with black/M205.

Yeah I didn't know that there were 5.5" flat pads when I bought the CCS pads, then I went to the CMA store and noticed that they were actually made. Next time I will order flat pads (I actually have a couple in black that I purchased from CMA after I went to the store), but I'm going to use what I've got for now. I have a 09 Honda Accord, so Honda paints are usually pretty soft, and it is just very fine swirl marks that can only be seen at certain times, so I don't think an orange pad is needed. Angelo actually told me to go with the white pad first since the Honda paint is so soft, then step up to the black. But thanks for the great information! Really do appreciate it.
 
Bryan - thanks for the tip with the line. Just tried my 105/205 today on the 10yo silver car (never been polished by machine before). Hard to tell how I am doing in the sun (garage is not an option at the moment). I can tell the paint 'looks' better than before on the panels I tested with today. Todd's 15-20 second passes with 205 will get tried tomorrow as I worked the 205 almost as long as the 105 on the orange and white pads this afternoon :doh:

Any tips for a first time user of 105/205 on a PC with flat pads are welcome.
 
... When I finish with M205 I usually use a 15-20 second pass, that's it. You can not refine the finish by working the product longer as you can with a diminishing abrasive. In fact over working the polish will start to errode the quality of the finish that you are leaving, instead of enhancing it.

The longer it is worked (which obviously increases the cutting) the lower the potential of finish, although its not a big deal, because it really only takes 30-45 minutes (work 15-20 second a pass) to completely final polish the paint.

15-20 second pass with steady pressure and wipe clean.


Why is this so? It does not make sense to me?

If the abrasive is nondiminishing I understand why it is not getting finer as you continue but I do not see why it would

  • Get more abrasive ("increase cutting")
  • First improve but then degrade the finish
It seems that it would eventually reach a point where it has leveled the surface as well as it can do. To continue polishing would make no sense as there would be no further improvement to the surface and you would simply be removing more paint for no benefit. It could get no better but why get worse?

I do not understand the mechanics of a polish to have the ability to first improve the surface and then degraded it? That only seems possible if the abrasive gets more aggressive as it is used. Sort of the opposite of diminishing.

Unless you are saying that as the M205 is worked and the lubricants dissipate that the effective abrasiveness increases?
 
Jeff: I've spent a lot of time with the 105/205 combo in the last couple of months. 105's a no-brainer, very effective, quick to work and finishes down wonderfully considering how much it corrects.

205 is like something else though. Todd really nails it with the "15 to 20 second passes." It doesn't "work" like other polishes that I've used, not even close. I pretty much gave up trying to think about and just use it. When I first started using it, I didn't really like it and I couldn't get it to finish down correctly. I couldn't wrap my mind around the fact it works so quickly. Finally, I quit thinking about it and used it like Todd, and the label, recommended... viola! I started getting great results.

Like every other polish, it is paint dependant though:
Soft paint/205: usually two passes with moderate pressure, then 2 with light (or very light) pressure. I find doing even just one extra pass with softer paints leads to some very light hazing so I'm mindful to just keep it simple and do the "two moderate/two light" and it finishes up almost perfect every time.

Hard paint/205: One extra moderate pressure pass, 3 total, is all that's usually needed. 205 and hard paint is a match made in heaven for me, it's like a can't miss polish.

The main thing I keep in mind with the 105/205 combo is to not think of it as coming from or being related to, other polishes. I call it the "less is more" combo.
 
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