Pressure washers?

Get a gas powered. We bought a Troy Bilt from Lowes last year, it was like $350 or something like that, they had 3 models, and we went for the one in the middle with the Honda engine.
 
Gas would seem nicer, but 2600 psi is quite a bit overkill for pressure washing a car. I don't think at that pressure it's safe to spray your paint. Just make sure you can dial down the pressure.
 
I have an electric Black and Decker used mostly for deck, house and driveway --> I've used it a time or two on the cars in the past (but not now), but it is overkill and I wouldn't get one just for a vehicle. Once you have a clean vehicle with a good LSP, what are you gonna need to blast off of there?
 
If you want to go the less expensive route; go gas. I use an electric (1500 psi) unit and it's perfect for every detail related application.
 
It is more for the driveway, cleanin the house, well that is what I am tellin the Fiance lol. The gas powered Honda one was the one I am leaning towards.
 
Chris223 said:
So stand further away from the car. It's not like you're holding the nozzle 6" from the paint.
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:work:



That's fine. Do that. It's not like humans are infallible or anything.
 
I have a 2250 PSI gas pressure washer that I use all the time on my cars and never had any issues with it. The pressure washer comes with color coded interchangeable tips for a certain job. Just be sure you use the correct tip or dial setting if you have an adjustable tip.
 
Biglots has a gas powered Karcher G 2600 VRH with a Honda motor for $288. It is a refurb, but still seems to be a good value.



I have a 2200PSI gas Husky Q45 and never had any issues.
 
I have a Generac with a Briggs and Straton - POS! Last time I tried using it, i ended up kicking it across the yard. If you get a gas model - get a Honda engine.
 
One of the important points about chosing a pressure washer is GPM. You want lot's of GPM. Pressure doesn't really matter, but the amount of water you can put through it per minute is important. Get at least 2.0 gpm. Imagine trying to wash your car with a hand spray bottle. That's what it's like trying to rinse/wash a car off with a low GPM PW.



I have a 3,000 PSI 2.8 GPM John Deere, and it's perfect for my touch free washes. I do use it at the full 3,000 PSI, too. But I have one of the wide angle dispersal tips on it so it doesn't peel my paint off.



To answer Abbeysdad's question about why you'd want a PW... Not having to touch the paint to do a complete wash is a huge benefit; if I don't touch my paint, I can't swirl it. :) And if you're going to be using a wash media, blasting as much stuff off the paint with a PW prior to you touching it with a wash media helps to prevent marring.



Important stuff when buying a PW:

Honda Engine

Triple piston type pump

High GPM



Most all of the electric ones sold at Home Depot, Lowes, Costco, etc. are very cheaply made and won't last long at all. They also have very low GPM. If you go to a more expensive electric PW, you'll have to have a dedicated 20 amp circuit to push the current needed for more GPM. You'll either have to go with a big circuit or go gas to get decent GPM.
 
If you aren't touching your paint I don't see how you are getting off road film/grime? This stuff doesn't come off with touchless washes.



Here's an example:



My buddy had a white 01 CL Type S (I think that was the year). It was white and only had touchless washes from the get go. It looked pretty good, that is until I did a hand wash with it. You could see a huge very visible distinct difference between where I had washed and where I hadn't. This was road film/grime that doesn't come off without some sort of manual agitation.



Of course, the process of waxing/polishing would provide that agitation.. just at the cost of getting grime/dirt into your applicator pads.





Also regarding dispersal tips. If you hook up a Camspray to it, obviously you have no dispersal tip. How does the foamer impact pressure at the tip?
 
SuperBee364 said:
One of the important points about chosing a pressure washer is GPM. You want lot's of GPM. Pressure doesn't really matter, but the amount of water you can put through it per minute is important. Get at least 2.0 gpm. Imagine trying to wash your car with a hand spray bottle. That's what it's like trying to rinse/wash a car off with a low GPM PW.





I have a 3,000 PSI 2.8 GPM John Deere, and it's perfect for my touch free washes. I do use it at the full 3,000 PSI, too. But I have one of the wide angle dispersal tips on it so it doesn't peel my paint off.



To answer Abbeysdad's question about why you'd want a PW... Not having to touch the paint to do a complete wash is a huge benefit; if I don't touch my paint, I can't swirl it. :)



Important stuff when buying a PW:

Honda Engine

Triple piston type pump

High GPM



Most all of the electric ones sold at Home Depot, Lowes, Costco, etc. are very cheaply made and won't last long at all. They also have very low GPM. If you go to a more expensive electric PW, you'll have to have a dedicated 20 amp circuit to push the current needed for more GPM. You'll either have to go with a big circuit or go gas to get decent GPM.
Click to expand...



I agree GPM is important I have the bulldog skid mount pressure washer 3.5 GPM with the 6.5 HP Briggs and Stratton Motor and I have not had any problems with it. My opinion is you definitely want to get one that has the option to switch out the tips to change the water angle. I have never had a problem with peeling paint. Having good GPM plus PSI also makes it easier to clean out hard to reach areas such as wheel wells.Just my .2 Cents
 
May I ask what you paid for this particular model??





SuperBee364 said:
I have a 3,000 PSI 2.8 GPM John Deere, and it's perfect for my touch free washes. I do use it at the full 3,000 PSI, too. But I have one of the wide angle dispersal tips on it so it doesn't peel my paint off.
Click to expand...
 
Mindflux said:
If you aren't touching your paint I don't see how you are getting off road film/grime? This stuff doesn't come off with touchless washes.



Here's an example:



My buddy had a white 01 CL Type S (I think that was the year). It was white and only had touchless washes from the get go. It looked pretty good, that is until I did a hand wash with it. You could see a huge very visible distinct difference between where I had washed and where I hadn't. This was road film/grime that doesn't come off without some sort of manual agitation.



Of course, the process of waxing/polishing would provide that agitation.. just at the cost of getting grime/dirt into your applicator pads.





Also regarding dispersal tips. If you hook up a Camspray to it, obviously you have no dispersal tip. How does the foamer impact pressure at the tip?
Click to expand...



You wouldn't think so, would ya. ;) Check this out... http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing/104946-oh-brother-here-he-goes-again-lot-s-pics.html I've been working on a touchless wash method for quite some time.



As for the camspray foamer, I have to swap out my tip to use the cannon, then swap the regular tip back on it. Kind of a pain, but it doesn't take too long to do.
 
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