Please Tell Me I Didn't!!!!!!!!!!

My $.02 is general hazing from agressive polish/pad. I would think if it was touch up paint it would also be softer than factory paint. Switch to a finishing polish and see if it comes out.
 
rydawg said:
It also looks like the lubricant from the polish absorbed itself into the paint from heat transfer. With the blackfire polishes, it is possible. Use a finish polish by hand and see what happens.



This is what I was thinking as well. I just do not see how it is possible for you to make a quarter size abrasion with a 4" pad. The shape of the blemish just does not fit that scenario either, it is round. It looks to me like possibly a dab of the product you were using was left to sit on the paint too long and it may have been absorbed into the paint??? I wouldn't use anymore abrasive products on the area. You might want to give it a few days and see if the spot fades???
 
Well i don't know much about detiling but i have painted a few cars. To me it looks like thst touch up paint got on the clear coat. How long did you wait after you sprayed the touchup paint ( i mean before you tried to polish it). I don't think you burnt your paint (although as i said i'm no expert).
 
Oh geeze...hate to see that, especially knowing it was precipitated by a stone chip repair.



goherd90- Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but IMO yeah, you did damage it beyond repair. That's *exactly* what it looked like when I messed up the clear on my MPV with a PC/4" pad combo :( Further polishing made things incrementally worse in my case and I suspect it'll be the same for you.



The only good news is that a *good* paintshop can fix it for a reasonable cost. I had the area in question blended in on the MPV and it turned out fine. There are arguements against blended-in spot repairs (those arguments maintain that the whole hood would have to be cleared) but IMO the spot-repairs hold up fine. YMMV of course, but I'd go with a spot-repair and hope for the best.



Big lesson here: there are worse things than stonechips. Please don't beat yourself up over it, live and learn...[stuff] happens.
 
Accumulator said:
Oh geeze...hate to see that, especially knowing it was precipitated by a stone chip repair.



goherd90- Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but IMO yeah, you did damage it beyond repair. That's *exactly* what it looked like when I messed up the clear on my MPV with a PC/4" pad combo :( Further polishing made things incrementally worse in my case and I suspect it'll be the same for you.



The only good news is that a *good* paintshop can fix it for a reasonable cost. I had the area in question blended in on the MPV and it turned out fine. There are arguements against blended-in spot repairs (those arguments maintain that the whole hood would have to be cleared) but IMO the spot-repairs hold up fine. YMMV of course, but I'd go with a spot-repair and hope for the best.



Big lesson here: there are worse things than stonechips. Please don't beat yourself up over it, live and learn...[stuff] happens.



Well your word is pretty much gospil around here so I will not even bother trying to find a good/pro detailer to assess if they can correct. The good news like you stated is that I can find a good paintshop that can do a spot repair and avoid having to redo my entire hood. It's small enough (qtr size) so that it does not stand out that much (except for me). Does anyone know of a good paintshop down in South Florida (West Palm Beach/Ft lauderdale area)? Will they know what how to repair properly? Do they put a clear over the damaged area?



Hopefully folks on this form WILL learn from my mistake and see that you can in fact damage a NEW cars paint with a PC! I think the consensus out there FOR MOST was that you could use it (regardless of pad/polish) without having to worry about damaging your paint.



You are right in saying there is worse things than stone chips. Here I was trying to fix a very small stone chip and look what ended up happening.



I will keep everyone posted on the paint repair once I can find a good one.
 
goherd90 said:
Do they put a clear over the damaged area?





Yeah, and that's the biggie here. They need to get the clear on the repaired area to "melt" into the surrounding, original clear in such a way that it ends up durable.



My one painter says that Spiess-Hecker brand paint (which I generally like very much) has a clear out that does this very well; that's what they used on my MPV and it's what they've used previously on our Audis. No signs of problems from where they blended it in and some of the Audi repairs were done a while ago.



Talk with the shops you're considering and don't hesitate to tell 'em "I'll get back to you" and check here for advice/opinions. Unfortunately, getting this work done can be problematic if/when you don't know the shop involved, and it doesn't always go wonderfully when you *do* know the shop and you have confidence in them.



One of the most frequent issues here is "I took my car to the bodyshop and *look* what they did!". I don't mean to make you paranoid, but I want you to go into this with your eyes wide open, forewarned being forearmed and all that. The more you know the less likely that things will turn out badly.
 
My father in law works at the Chrysler dealership I bought the car from and they have a bodyshop down the street from the dealerhsip that does repair work. Would this be a first start to look into? Or do I need to go to a stricly paintship only place?



I am sure that most when looking at what they'll have to do will probably tell me that they'll need to paint entire hood? Probalby because their not confident in doing the spot repair work....thanks again
 
goherd90- Having worked at a Chrysler dealership's body shop in my youth, and having had work done at a dealerships, I doubt that'll be your best option. And with your father-in-law working there, I'd consider the domestic ramifications if they screw it up.



Some dealerships are OK (my Porsche/Audi dealer does concours restorations and I let them work on my drivers), but it's pretty rare. I'd try to find a high-end independent shop, the kind of place that does antiques and exotics.



Redoing the whole hood opens a can of worms...if they just clear the whole thing that might be OK, but if they give it a colorcoat they probably ought blend into the front fenders. That's a lot of painting for small spot...



Remember also that fresh repaints shouldn't be waxed for a few months. I use Meg's #5 while the paint is curing.
 
Accumulator said:
goherd90- Having worked at a Chrysler dealership's body shop in my youth, and having had work done at a dealerships, I doubt that'll be your best option. And with your father-in-law working there, I'd consider the domestic ramifications if they screw it up.



Some dealerships are OK (my Porsche/Audi dealer does concours restorations and I let them work on my drivers), but it's pretty rare. I'd try to find a high-end independent shop, the kind of place that does antiques and exotics.



Redoing the whole hood opens a can of worms...if they just clear the whole thing that might be OK, but if they give it a colorcoat they probably ought blend into the front fenders. That's a lot of painting for small spot...



Remember also that fresh repaints shouldn't be waxed for a few months. I use Meg's #5 while the paint is curing.



sorry for the consistant questions, but I thought the paint was damaged and by (worse case scenario) repainting the entire hood would be ok? I am confused when you say that it may be ok if they just clear the entire hood? How does putting clear on entire hood repair the paint damage.



Just trying to fully understand. I will take up your advise and find a paint shop that works on exotics or antiques.
 
goherd90- The idea is that they'll repaint the damaged area with both basecoat and clear (even though the damage is only in the clear, that's almost always what they do). Then some shops will want to reclear the whole hood instead of just the area around the boo-boo's repair. If all goes well that'll work out OK but I myself prefer to limit the work to the bare minimum necessary. I've had it done both ways many times and have arrived at this preference through experience.



If, OTOH, they want to completely (basecoat and clear) repaint the whole hood, you'll have issues with the color not exactly matching the adjacent fenders, that's when they get into blending into the front fenders (what a lot of work for that little problem). You'll get that to some extent if they just do the spot-repair, but it won't show much to anybody except you.



See what the shops (note the plural ;) ) tell you and don't be in a hurry to make a decision.
 
Just some un-asked for advice - don't do anything for at least 2 weeks. Right now you're feeling all kinds of negative emotions, so give yourself a chance to recover and live with it. It's small, in an area prone to damage anyway, and looks like maybe not very noticeable unless the car is recently washed. Whatever, right now it might be better to live with it for a bit before you start making decisions. Another reason for leaving it is you'll forever be reminded that you screwed up - not a bad thing.



Are there products available that could hide it to some extent?
 
Bob/Accumulator thanks for keeping my spirits up as you've both seem to know what I'm going though. I just feel like such an idiot for doing this! Albeit minor it does BUG the hell out of me. Your point is well taken in that MOST people will not notice it and it is towards my front facia area that is prone to getting nicked up regardless.



Too late on giving it a few weeks. I called and spoke to this auto paint/collision shop. I explained to him what I did and he said that he THINKS I may be overreacting and that he can probably have one of his detailers wetsend and repair in 20 minutes..he said I would just have to TIP him. I told him that I don't think this is going to do it and I've shared some pics with experts (you guys) and it appears to be damage to the clear. He was very nice and said to bring by the shop and they will take a look at it. I am sure once he's sees what he's dealing with he'll realilze its a bit more than wet sanding.



I am going to go by Friday morning before I get into work. I'll update as to what he says.
 
i have a spot like that on my toyota tailgate...been there since the first time I WAXED my truck...not even polished...never knew what it was, but it doesnt come out with polishing, so I said forget it and let it be...i want to get a new car, so I am not about to spend money to try and have it fixed...lol
 
DON'T PANIC JUST YET. I had something very similar happen just last week while polishing

my black car. I was using the best products and pads possible with a fellow autopian and for whatever reason this wierd blemish that looked very similar to yours appeared under certain lighting conditions. It baffled both of us and after examining it for a few minutes we decided to try another pass with a finish polish and guess what? It came right out. Hopefully, yours will too. Please let us know how you make out.



Patrick
 
I'll keep you posted. I believe I did make another pass with finishing polish but it may have been by hand...I cannot recall as I was kind of in panic mode.



I am going to bring it by this Friday to a repair/paintshop to have them examine.
 
goherd90 said:
I'll keep you posted. I believe I did make another pass with finishing polish but it may have been by hand...I cannot recall as I was kind of in panic mode.



I am going to bring it by this Friday to a repair/paintshop to have them examine.



Can you put it off for another week? I would still give it the benefit of the doubt that it may just be a stain from leaving the product on the paint too long. It isn't going to hurt anything to hold off and see if it fades over a few days...
 
rjstaaf said:
Can you put it off for another week? I would still give it the benefit of the doubt that it may just be a stain from leaving the product on the paint too long. It isn't going to hurt anything to hold off and see if it fades over a few days...



uggh yeah, but the product was not left on paint too long. I put compound on pad and used used the PC for several passes. The blotch then appeared and I immediately stopped and tried to get off with finishing polish etc...no luck
 
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