Perforated leather seats
- Thread starter uncandid
- Start date
uncandid said:
Here are the pictures, you may want to match a description to each of the pictures, and precisely where you described . . . where are the stiffer spots?
“The leather is not in terribly bad shape, just a little stiffer in some spots than others.”
Roger Koh
info@leatherdoctor.com
#1
#2
#3
#4
Roger Koh said:Here are the pictures, you may want to match a description to each of the pictures, and precisely where you described . . . where are the stiffer spots?
“The leather is not in terribly bad shape, just a little stiffer in some spots than others.”
Roger Koh
info@leatherdoctor.com
#1
This is the seat bolster. it has gotten a little hard and the creases are steadily getting worse.
#2
This is the seat backing right above the bolster. same issues
#3
same as above
#4
This is a picture of the headrest in the back. it hard to tell from the picture but it is almost completely dry and stiff
Thanks for the help!
#1
This is the seat bolster. it has gotten a little hard and the creases are steadily getting worse.
Comment:
This looks like an over buildup of conditioners/protectors, making the leather looks plastiky and heavy for an even flexing to produce “fine breaks” instead of “coarse breaks”.
These “coarse breaks” will developed into deeper creases and eventually cracks on these over flexed creases if left alone with continue coating with conditioners/protectors especially those “film forming” types.
Recommend:
1] The buildup conditioners/protectors are to be completely stripped off – using a “leather-safe” prep, sticky residue is to be clean off and rinse to a healthy squeaky feel.
2] This stripping off to the original OEM finishes will exposed developed micro-crazing that will allow the leather to breathes better; breathability = absorbency.
3] Hydrating is done with a pH 3.3 hydrator through the surface micro-crazing downwards if possible or sideward’s through the stitching holes.
4] Advance techniques uses absorbent tissue paper/cotton wool as reservoir to contain the hydrator while under cling wrapper for evaporation control to ensure the hydrator goes into the leather fibrous structure.
5] Will explain technique further with actual application if desired; on how to achieve a full hydration prior to fatliquor replenishing to soften it when dry and reducing the coarse breaks.
#2
This is the seat backing right above the bolster. same issues
Refer comment and recommend as above.
Note: Surfaces scratches is original topcoat missing – touchup with matching topcoat probably will eliminate the marks.
#3
same as above
Over Loading!
Finish Over Loading!
This leads to the perforated holes joining up as crease lines instead and eventually will cracks in lineal rows.
Half of the problem will be solved when it is stripped clean to the original finish – without damaging the original finishes and is leather structural safe.
And I will further explain the other half when system products are at hand.
#4
This is a picture of the headrest in the back. it hard to tell from the picture but it is almost completely dry and stiff
Recommend:
1] Strip to original OEM finish to reduce the finish load – first.
2] Hydration with advance technique until the leather softens up.
3] Then fatliquor replenish using the same advance technique to hold the leather with suppleness when dry.
You think what I mentioned would help?
Roger Koh
info@leatherdoctor.com
This is the seat bolster. it has gotten a little hard and the creases are steadily getting worse.
Comment:
This looks like an over buildup of conditioners/protectors, making the leather looks plastiky and heavy for an even flexing to produce “fine breaks” instead of “coarse breaks”.
These “coarse breaks” will developed into deeper creases and eventually cracks on these over flexed creases if left alone with continue coating with conditioners/protectors especially those “film forming” types.
Recommend:
1] The buildup conditioners/protectors are to be completely stripped off – using a “leather-safe” prep, sticky residue is to be clean off and rinse to a healthy squeaky feel.
2] This stripping off to the original OEM finishes will exposed developed micro-crazing that will allow the leather to breathes better; breathability = absorbency.
3] Hydrating is done with a pH 3.3 hydrator through the surface micro-crazing downwards if possible or sideward’s through the stitching holes.
4] Advance techniques uses absorbent tissue paper/cotton wool as reservoir to contain the hydrator while under cling wrapper for evaporation control to ensure the hydrator goes into the leather fibrous structure.
5] Will explain technique further with actual application if desired; on how to achieve a full hydration prior to fatliquor replenishing to soften it when dry and reducing the coarse breaks.
#2
This is the seat backing right above the bolster. same issues
Refer comment and recommend as above.
Note: Surfaces scratches is original topcoat missing – touchup with matching topcoat probably will eliminate the marks.
#3
same as above
Over Loading!
Finish Over Loading!
This leads to the perforated holes joining up as crease lines instead and eventually will cracks in lineal rows.
Half of the problem will be solved when it is stripped clean to the original finish – without damaging the original finishes and is leather structural safe.
And I will further explain the other half when system products are at hand.
#4
This is a picture of the headrest in the back. it hard to tell from the picture but it is almost completely dry and stiff
Recommend:
1] Strip to original OEM finish to reduce the finish load – first.
2] Hydration with advance technique until the leather softens up.
3] Then fatliquor replenish using the same advance technique to hold the leather with suppleness when dry.
You think what I mentioned would help?
Roger Koh
info@leatherdoctor.com
judyb
New member
The fatliquoring in modern coated leather do not migrate like they did in older leathers tanning processes have advanced and the fatliquors are locked into the leather fibres. What changes is the moisture level - as the moisture dries the leather will become stiffer and less flexible. Keep the moisture level correct and your leather will be soft and supple.
Re fatliquoring is not only unnecessary but also impossible to do on modern finished leather.
The creases in your leather are due to natural creasing in the hide itself but must be cleaned regularly to prevent cracking in the pigment.
The best way to treat this leather us to keep it simple
Deep clean with a foam water based cleaner - this will remove residues of other products and dirt and therefore reduce the shine
Protect with a quality leather protector (one that works as a protector - many don't) this will help protect the finish on the leather from dirt and abrassion wear.
Maintain on a regular basis with a maintenance product - a simple to use spray and wipe product that is quick and therefore very useable - a quick wipe down will help with rehydration and keep the surface of the leather free from dirt which will prolong the finish.
The key thing to remember with most auto leather is that it is the finish we are dealing with and trying to preserve not the leather itself. Keep the finish intact and rehydrate the leather and your leather will be kept in good condition.
Hope this helps
Judyb
Leather care consultant
Re fatliquoring is not only unnecessary but also impossible to do on modern finished leather.
The creases in your leather are due to natural creasing in the hide itself but must be cleaned regularly to prevent cracking in the pigment.
The best way to treat this leather us to keep it simple
Deep clean with a foam water based cleaner - this will remove residues of other products and dirt and therefore reduce the shine
Protect with a quality leather protector (one that works as a protector - many don't) this will help protect the finish on the leather from dirt and abrassion wear.
Maintain on a regular basis with a maintenance product - a simple to use spray and wipe product that is quick and therefore very useable - a quick wipe down will help with rehydration and keep the surface of the leather free from dirt which will prolong the finish.
The key thing to remember with most auto leather is that it is the finish we are dealing with and trying to preserve not the leather itself. Keep the finish intact and rehydrate the leather and your leather will be kept in good condition.
Hope this helps
Judyb
Leather care consultant