PC: Light Work Only?

Scorpion

Scorpion

New member
I noticed today that I can grab the pad while it is spinning and stop it. All the PC does at this point is oscillate back and forth. How am I supposed to remove scratches and hazing if the PC isn't even spinning?! I wish I had been told this prior to it being recommended. I would have bought a rotary instead of wasting $110 on the PC.
 
A rotary would do better for removing scratches and swirls if your experienced with one but do not doubt the PC. It can still remove scratches and swirld with the right polish and the right pad.
 
No offense meant here cause I can relate to your connumdrum :) but you should of done a bit more research.....perhaps among the pros on this or other sites.



Most pros would agree with your findings that the PC, while nice for applying liquid waxes, glazes, mild polishing, is not a tool meant for paint correction. Many disagree with me and claim that given the right pads and product, plus given enough time, you can do the same work with a PC as you can a rotary. I find that to be wishful thinking.



I am a huge fan of the Cyclo (which is more powerful than the PC) but even it can't match the work of a rotary. For doing paint correction you need heat and friction, the PC generates probably less than you can with your hand. The Cyclo can generate a fair amount of heat, perhaps slightly more than ones hand alone (while ones hand can generate heat and friction it can't do it for a sustained amount of time like a machine). Only the rotary can develop the needed heat and friction that allows poishes to work at their peak.



Save up for a rotary and either keep the PC for use after your rotary or sell it.



Anthony
 
You might be able to get away with using the PC with 4" pads for minor spot correction. other than that, I use it mainly with black LC finishing pads to apply AIO.
 
Actually, I did a lot of research before I bought the PC. I was aware that it was not as efficient as the rotary but I had no idea that with just the slightest amount of force the pad stops spinning. I'm really surprised that in all the websites I read that this wasn't mentioned once.



I'm going to get a rotary soon. Should I get a Makita or a Dewalt? I know I will have to buy a new backup pad for the rotary but will my PC pads fit the rotary backup pad, or do I have to buy everything again?
 
Bill D said:
You might be able to get away with using the PC with 4" pads for minor spot correction. other than that, I use it mainly with black LC finishing pads to apply AIO.
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Ya, I'll hang onto it. I plan on doing some woodworking so it will make a good SP for that.
 
You can remove mild to moderate defects with the PC using cutting pads and compounds designed for the PC, like Detailer's Pride Super Swirl Eliminator and I believe Wolfgang also has a really good PC compound. For heavy correction, you need at least a Cyclo or more likely, a rotary.
 
I would like to make a comment on the pc not being able to generate heat. I would have to disagree. With a orange propel pad and ssr 2.5 and the right pressure I have generated enough heat so the paint surface is very warm to the touch, far more than you could generate with your hand. As this is no where near the heat of a rotary it still seems enough to remove a fair amount of swirls and light scratches.
 
deezr- Heh heh, no real surprise that the sites selling PCs don't mention how easy it is to bog them down, huh? Just as it's no real surprise that some sites make the rotary sound as safe/easy to use as a PC (hint hint).



Putting 4" pads on the PC will make it harder to bog it down- you might be surprised. You won't be able to "grab and stop" the pad as easily. Heh heh, don't try grabbing the pads of a Cyclo- it hurts!



Get a rotary but keep the PC (great for holograms, and someday you'll get 'em ;) ). Either the Makita (which I chose) or the Dewalt will do fine. Go slow and easy and pay attention. Use plenty of common sense and you should do fine.



With the right backing plates you can use the same pads on the PC and the rotary. I almost *always* use 6-6.5" or even 4" pads on the rotary.
 
Wow, i cant believe everyone is simply agreeing with this guy on his stupidity reguarding the Porter Cable.



Of course you can stop the pad spinning. Its on a ball bearing. Its designed to be stationary, and ORBIT on an excentric shaft. Thus the term RANDOM ORBITAL!



And if you are actually applying enough force to actually stop the porter cable from orbiting...then i feel terribly sorry for your paint when you get a rotory.



In all honesty, you needed to do more then "research" the PC, but also understand HOW and WHY it works mechanicly.



Sorry to say, but i have to chalk you onto my ignorant list.
 
You're not stupid nor ignorant.



The PC pads can work for a rotary. Make sure you buy a backing plate suitable for 6 in. pads and you can use either 6 or 8 in. pads with it.



I would buy the DeWalt.



Anthony
 
I'll second that, such a person wouldn't bothering making the observation and in turn, post to create discussion about it. Some good feedback was given and points made. :up
 
Anthony, I am using the DeWALT DW443 random orbital machine. Recently I found out that it creates tonnes of micro-marring on my paintwork when used with #83 and polishing pad. I don't have such problem when used with other paintwork.
 
We have different kinds of experience , which defines which equipment suits you. I started using Makita rotary first, thinking it was a piece of cake. I had no experience whatsoever (even now I depend on a lot of information on this board, thank you) . I spent one week figure out how to buff the hood without getting holograms ( I believe I remove a lot of paint already). Finally I stopped and ordered PC instead. With light swirls and scratches on my solid black vehicle, I am satisfied with just PC. With more experience, you'll be happy with rotary. No doubt about it. It can create beautify finish on the car especially without light hehe.

For me, I will store my Makita in the room for now. Until the day I know how to use it properly without getting holograms.
 
My bad. I should have done more research. :wall:



Thanks for the constructive advice and tips. As for the rest, keep up the good work. :chuckle:
 
Accumulator said:
deezr- Heh heh, no real surprise that the sites selling PCs don't mention how easy it is to bog them down, huh? Just as it's no real surprise that some sites make the rotary sound as safe/easy to use as a PC (hint hint).



Putting 4" pads on the PC will make it harder to bog it down- you might be surprised. You won't be able to "grab and stop" the pad as easily. Heh heh, don't try grabbing the pads of a Cyclo- it hurts!



Get a rotary but keep the PC (great for holograms, and someday you'll get 'em ;) ). Either the Makita (which I chose) or the Dewalt will do fine. Go slow and easy and pay attention. Use plenty of common sense and you should do fine.



With the right backing plates you can use the same pads on the PC and the rotary. I almost *always* use 6-6.5" or even 4" pads on the rotary.
Click to expand...



Someday I can only hope to be as experienced and helpful as you. :grrr



For some reason your response to my topic brings to mind the phrase "quantity versus quality". Heh, go figure.
 
Buck-O said:
And if you are actually applying enough force to actually stop the porter cable from orbiting...then i feel terribly sorry for your paint when you get a rotory.



Sorry to say, but i have to chalk you onto my ignorant list.
Click to expand...



Thanks, you said it for me.
 
Rotary for paint correction, PC for follow up with wax or final polish. Easy Easy. I love using my PC!
 
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