PC: Light Work Only?

zey said:
Anthony, I am using the DeWALT DW443 random orbital machine. Recently I found out that it creates tonnes of micro-marring on my paintwork when used with #83 and polishing pad. I don't have such problem when used with other paintwork.
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Hello,



Forgive me but I can't quite understand your post here. The PC creates marring on your car with #83 but not on other paintwork? What paintwork would that be and also what type of paintwork do you have personally?



On the topic of micro-marring it may be that you just need to follow up with a finer pad and product. I have found that Menzerna FPII or Opt Polish with a 100 ppi foam pad, like Optimum's white ultra fine finishing pad, produces for me the finest finishes. I run my rotary around 1700 rpm's for this final burnishing step.



If you have just the PC you can also apply FPII with a suede mf bonnet. The Cyclo can be used with these suede bonnets also.



As noted already, the PC or the Cyclo are not meant to replace the rotary but rather compliment the rotary as a finishing tool. Using the two of them will provide betters results than using just one.



Anthony
 
Tanat198 said:
We have different kinds of experience , which defies which equipment suits you. I started using Makita rotary first, thinking it was a piece of cake. I had no experience whatsoever (even now I depend on a lot of information on this board, thank you) . I spent one week figure out how to buff the hood without getting holograms ( I believe I remove a lot of paint already). Finally I stopped and ordered PC instead. With light swirls and scratches on my solid black vehicle, I am satisfied with just PC. With more experience, you'll be happy with rotary. No doubt about it. It can create beautify finish on the car especially without light hehe.

For me, I will store my Makita in the room for now. Until the day I know how to use it properly without getting holograms.
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haha sorry..i meant direct sunlight
 
No the PC is fine BUT don't expect it to do the work of a rotary. It is best if you use the rotary for paint correction and the PC to clean up any fine marring, applying liquid waxes and sealers.



Anthony
 
Lexuslvr said:
OK, did I screw up buying the PC? Should I have bought something like the PC 7428 rotary instead?
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As Anthony said, NO, you didn't screw up, you just bought one tool instead of another. Like asking if you screwed up buying a pruning saw instead of a chainsaw.



IF (maybe a big "if", maybe not :nixweiss ) you find that you can't do what you want with the PC (too much marring, too hard paint, etc.) then get a rotary for those jobs and use the PC for other stuff. FWIW, I hardly *ever* get the rotary out of the box, but I use the Cyclos (and even the PCs) quite often. Nice to have the rotary when you *do* need it though. Pros need a rotary much more often, but once you get your paint nice you shouldn't need to do much correction again for a long time.
 
The PC is a great first step into machine polishing.



If your paint has no more than light to moderate defects, a PC will work just fine for you. If you have hard paint (like an Audi), deep defects, etc, then the PC doesn't have the cutting power, even with a 4" cutting pad and PC specific compounds.



New a/c compressor on my car first, then a Cyclo to compliment my PC. :)
 
Well, as you can see from my signature line, all my cars are new or 1 year old. Even the Equinox doesn't look bad and I REALLY expected it to have a lousy paint job looks pretty good.
 
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