PC and menzerna didnt work? I just bought a new 350z and it had some pretty bad swirls, so I got to polishing. Well after hours of polishing with my orange pad and pc.. I didnt even touch the swirls, so then I got out my rotary and started with orange pad and menzerna with that on about 1000 rpms.. Looked good that day but after a couple of rains. Swirls are still there.. NOt as much but they are still there.. is there another really good polish I can use with my porter cable that will cut?
PC and Menzerna didn't work :(
- Thread starter LandonZ
- Start date
Make sure you use enough polish. I ran into the same thing with the Super Intensive Polish. From reading other posts I was figuring I didn't need to use much polish. I was just putting a couple pea sized drops on the pad, and found it wasn't doing much. I actually like you, wasted about four hours on my car. Finally I had the epiphany to try more polish. I now put equivalent to a couple dime sized spots on the pad, and it has made all the difference. I suppose I could have also reduced my working area instead of using more polish, but that did the trick.
I was using the PC with orange CCS pad with Menzerna IP and I didn't touch the swirls on my 350z either. The paint is really soft and shouldn't have been a problem. I used the same process, but slower on my cousin's Chevy Silverado, but with great results. I was moving slower and adding more polish. I'm going to be hitting the Z again now that I know what I'm doing, as I'm very confident that I'll be successful next time.
Here are the results from his truck.
Here are the results from his truck.
see, I may have done 20 or more cars with that same process and had great results. I am mind boggled that the rotary and menzerna didnt do more. Im telling you guys that after using the rotary there also was Zero burn marks in the paint? Thats odd also. I will most def. do it again, but I want to know im getting them off this time.
Hmmm...You haven't mentioned it, but, did you work the PC at a speed of 6, with some pressure and at a very slow pace, passing 7-plus times on the surface of the paint? Speed of 6 really makes a difference, at least to me, in comparison to any of the lower speeds for paint defect removal. Secondly, have you thought of instead of going more aggressive, going less aggressive? For example, use your cutting pad and IP, then drop down to a polishing pad and FP II, then a finishing pad and 106FF?? I wish you luck autopia friend.
I own a Z as well, and used PC on it for the first time a few weeks ago. Noticed a small area of marring on the driver's door and a single very slow pass with IP and orange E2K pad with PC at #6 corrected it beautifully. Be sure to go over the area as many times as needed to fully break the polish down. It will practically disappear into the paint when that happens. I think your problem is in your technique.
The rest of the car didn't need correction so I didn't use IP on it.
The rest of the car didn't need correction so I didn't use IP on it.
BlueZero
New member
Did I miss something? What Menzerna did you use? I see others talking about what they used, but we still don't know what you used. Just wondering. SIP is on my wish list.
nightscare
New member
i'm actually using the SIP w/ lcs orange @ pc6 on my 2003 black M3 right now, and i cannot get it to "disappear" into the paint. i've gone back and forth many many times, yet there is still a significant haze of polish and it makes it quite difficult to remove it. i start seeing the little holes from the CCS pad on the surface before the polish starts to disappear... is that bad?
it's a brand new pad, i gave it a light mist of QD like in the tutorials (should i not do that?), spread it out on the surface then went to work. it is getting rid of about 95% of the swirls but it doesnt seem to be getting to the light random scratches... is that because it isn't breaking down all the way?
arghhhhh this is frustrating, lol.
it's a brand new pad, i gave it a light mist of QD like in the tutorials (should i not do that?), spread it out on the surface then went to work. it is getting rid of about 95% of the swirls but it doesnt seem to be getting to the light random scratches... is that because it isn't breaking down all the way?
arghhhhh this is frustrating, lol.
Haven't had any problems with IP or 106FF via PC on either Edge2k 6.5 inch orange, green, blue pads. I noticed that with IP I had to spent a bit more time working it in compared to the 106FF but that would make sense. As far as it turning clear, I never seem to get it to go as clear as OC or OHC, perhaps I am doing something wrong as well...
porta said:
No, am am talking about the subsequent panels. I used more to prime the pad, and then dropped back to a couple pea sized blobs and was having very little luck getting the swirls out. I stepped up to more polish, and it made all the difference. But like I said, I think I probably tackle a larger area than most, probably closer to 3'x3' instead of 2'x2'.
nightscare said:
If the PC is taking out 95% of the swirls then you are doing really well! PC isn't meant to remove every swirl of every type since it doesn't have a very aggressive action like rotaries do. The minor marring you refer to will eventually come out over time with intermittent light polishing; just don't worry about them too much. As long as the really major swirls are coming off, you should be happy with a job well done!
I was using IP with orange pad and a rotary, I did use alittle pressure and lots of product. now about the PC, I did have that on 5 not 6. I worked it until it was clear then wiped off the rest.. I guess ill try something diff. next time.. Any other suggestions will be appreciated
Balthazarr
New member
6 makes the car sound off like a metal trash can.
I'm going to practise on my car with the 4" CCS pads as I have a few parking lot scars.
I'm going to practise on my car with the 4" CCS pads as I have a few parking lot scars.