PC and Menzerna didn't work :(

in most cases hollogramming from an Edge green pad can be removed with a PC and polishing pad with a swirl remover. If using a medium cut wool pad I'd suggest either following with a foam polshing pad by rotary or a orange pad and PC.
 
Stuart, you mean OPMs right? 3-4000 RPMs are dangerous if you are not skilled with the rotary and most rotaries don't go over 3000 anyway.



However, when you have to remove a sanding spot, you can go over the area with a spot wool pad and 3000 RPMs, and the spot will clear up in 5-6 seconds without significant heat buildup.
 
TH0001 said:
Wow this thread is all over the place :O



As far as burns, micromarring, ect... Here is a picture I took this afternoon of a lotus I polished with Menzerna SIP with a wool pad. You can see the finish looks amazing, but there is light holograms in the paint. This is normal with a wool pad however...



0012.jpg




With aggressive pads/compounds/wools ect... you might not finish down completely LSP ready, but you should be fairly close if you break the polish down all the way. With more aggressive pads/compounds/wools you may have light hologramming in the paint, that will need to be remove after, but generally the swirls should be gone. You might also have micromarring, that looks like thousands of TINY scratches in uniform directions.



1000 rpm is really not that much with a rotary, and is basically used to refine the polish after it has broken down. IP likes to be cut around 1300-1500 in my experience, and powergloss responds better to slightly higher rpms say 1500-1800.



I don't want to sound like a jerk, but it really sounds like you have no clue what you are doing. You say you have experience buffing cars, but the that means little if your experience has been incorrect. Polishing with a rotary is somewhat of an art form, but it must be developed.



Eitherways good luck, but I think your technique may be faulty...
Click to expand...



I dont have a problem buffing with a rotary and actually most of the marring im talking about is from a PC. I would say that I am not perfect with a rotary yet, most of my years of polishing have been with a PC. And the thread was originally about my PC and IP not working on the swirls on my 350z haha. Not how skilled I am with what buffer. I have buffed my car a couple of times since this thread started and I seem to be slowly cutting the swirls that I was having problems with
 
I had the same problems as you on black bmw 3 series. To me their clear coat seems way too hard for IP and orange pad, could be the case with Z as well.
 
This is kind of an old thread, but I'll add my 2 cents anyway.



I recently used Menzerna SIP (via PC) on my VW with its hard clear. A couple of months ago I went over it with #83 / 6.5" LC orange pad and it did a decent job, but definitely not complete. I was finally able to get my hands on a bottle of SIP and I did the car all over again with 4" LC orange pads - it made a visible difference. Here's my technique:



  • speed 6
  • 3 pea-sized dots on the 4" pad (a bit more at initial priming)
  • slow passes (perhaps less than an inch / second)
  • moderate pressure (just a little less than enough to stop the pad from moving)
  • perhaps a 5 minute work time (probably too much as there was some dusting and product crackling on the pad a while later)
  • less than 2x2 work area ... maybe more like 1.5x1.5
  • half the time I had to make a second pass at the panel (remember, this is hard clear)



The results turned out pretty good and the paint was definitely deeper / clearer than two months ago. The surface was somewhat hot immediately after polishing, but maybe this worked out because I understand that SIP needs some heat during the initial stages to break down properly. I used a PC which doesn't generate as much heat, so I somewhat compensated by going really slow and applying pressure (increasing speed and backing off the pressure after a couple of minutes). Hopefully, I didn't thin the clear unnecessarily (I don't have a paint meter to gauge this). This finished, to my amateur eyes, to LSP-ready as I had tried following up with a 6.5" LC white pad and 106FF - it didn't improve the surface. Kind of sucks because I spent $50 on that bottle of 106FF.



So if Nissan paint is soft, then some of this technique may help...assuming you're still having problems after all this time.
 
I hear ya doc-rice on the vw clear. It sucks big time! I used menzerna IP/FP on my '03 GLI and it definitely made it look better, but there are still too many areas that even the IP with an orange pad on speed 6 with multiple passes couldn't fix, and those areas really aren't even bad at all. It should have taken them out without a problem.
 
BuffMe said:
I used menzerna IP/FP on my '03 GLI and it definitely made it look better, but there are still too many areas that even the IP with an orange pad on speed 6 with multiple passes couldn't fix, and those areas really aren't even bad at all. It should have taken them out without a problem.
Click to expand...

I'm guessing that maybe using SIP instead of IP might have made a difference.
 
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