Optimum vs. Menzerna Polishes

Makes perfect sense and I understand the compromises you have to make with customers cars because I have to do the same thing every day as well.



My only point of contention was the comment that they finish the same. It may look that way but you'd have to remove OPS's sealant properties to really make that kind of comparison.



I am an OPS fan, btw. I like to use it for customers only willing to go for a one-step wax when there paint has been neglected. I feel like the corrective properties are an added bonus.
 
Dave KG said:
I have both ranges of products, but my personal prefernce is the Menzerna line for both defect correction and finishing, though both products are very good... When I talk about the Menzernas here, I am referring to the ceramiclear range whihc alo have a very long work time thanks to the good lube content of the polishes and I find them very effective on ahrd and soft finishes.



The Optimu polishes I also really like, again thanks to their long work time and good correction abilities. I really like a polishi with a long work time, so the Opimums fit the bill perfectly...



Its all going to be horses for courses at the end of the day - both the product lines are excellent... I have both, and personally I always find myself reaching for the Menzerna but thats just my personal preference.
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Without reading any further than the 4th post right here, I couldn't agree more. Dave echo's my sentiments perfectly. I really like Optimum, but just doesn't seem to finish was well (via rotary or PC) for me, as judged my experimenting when I come across soft black piant (like black Infinitys).
 
RAG said:
Without reading any further than the 4th post right here, I couldn't agree more. Dave echo's my sentiments perfectly. I really like Optimum, but just doesn't seem to finish was well (via rotary or PC) for me, as judged my experimenting when I come across soft black piant (like black Infinitys).
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I agree also. I have used op on certain colors and it could not provide the gloss that I needed and marred some finishes badly, even with a finishing pad. On other hand, po106ff finished out outstanding and left a breath taking gloss to die for. The wierd part is that it was designed for hard paint, but finishes so well on softer paint! :nixweiss



Optimum polish has the whole dust thing down and is one of the things I like best and does not leave a mess at all. But, I think they need to tweak the gloss and finish factor just a little more and it will be an excellent polish.



For some op will leave a good gloss (depending on color and make) for some to proud of and be happy with, but for some of us extremely picky people who want an award finishing gloss, menzerna po106ff is the king.



It not the oils that make the finish look outstanding, it's the diminishing abrasives that break down to from (2500 to 5000 plus) grit stage. It's like wetsanding from 1500 to 3000 to 5000 in a bottle! The oils just keep it lubricated, just like you need lube wetsanding.
 
OP is not an enthusiast product first and foremost but rather body shop/pro detailer geared which is why the emphasis is on range more than high gloss finish.



Kevin Ferrell and David designed it to replace a slew of levelers and polishes in that type of enviroment. If you were to visit your local BMW/Porsche/Mercedes dealership and could take a peek in their products cabinet for the make ready guys you would most likely see shelves full of glazes, paint cleaners, cream waxes, paste waxes, fast wax and several compounds. Most of them unopened and never used because the detailers have no clue how to use them or for what purpose and in reality they are useless because many of them are redundant in their capabilities.



Kevin thought, as did David, there should only be one polish and it should cover a range of uses. So Optimum Polish was designed to be able to cut with a wool pad and finish with a foam finishing pad and do this with as little dusting as possible.



PS though was created for both the enthusiast as well as the pro detailer. It can be hand applied for the weekend warrior that has no polisher and the pro detailer can use it to save time and money as a one step with a orbital or rotary.



FPII is an excellant product, the best as far as final finish is concerned IMHO and all others that claim to be such will be judged by that comparison. Will Optimum seek to claim that spot? Dunno.



Anthony
 
Bigpoppa3346 said:
Agreed. A polish can't create "wetness"
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Yes it can What do you think makes the paint look wet. Sealant ain't gonna do much is it

Wax will do some but I don't use it much.

IP RD 3.01 followed by FP 87MF, FPII or 85RD, 106FF will definately give you the wetness you want and so will a miriad of other pure polishes

Heck the clarity, DOI and wetness I get from buffing in prime acrylic & carnauba together is unreal at times. Not to mention the clear permanent layer it leaves behind also.
 
Yes. Some polishes finish in a clear, reflective way some are wetter, some are deeper - and that's just polishing, with squeaky, clean surfaces.
 
Bence said:
Yes. Some polishes finish in a clear, reflective way some are wetter, some are deeper - and that's just polishing, with squeaky, clean surfaces.
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Well, I prefer clarity in a final polish, which is why I use Menzerna. Still don't understand how a polish can create wetness, though.
 
A glaze will produce a wet finish due to its oil content, polishes can produce optically clear paint...for lack of a better phrase at the moment....and this in turn gives the paint a glass like look.



Anthony
 
I see subtle differences using different polishes. When I tried FK1 polishes, I was surprised because the finish was so wet like I had used a glaze - and it wasn't 330 which contains a wax-package and even squeaks differently; almost silently. No, it was the 360 compound and 17 micro polish. We used the 3M P-i III Trizact Compound on the trunklid on my Camry and it wasn't wet, yet filled BIG time. The PO series are always reflective and clear, while for example OP produces a darker, wetter-looking surface. Another aggressive polish, the Riwax White Paste squeaks the loudest - yet it is a wax-based heavy creme. On hard repaints, the HTEC produces significanty higher gloss when you spin 2300-2500 with the rotary. The 1Z Body Shop line is different again... Ah, and final gloss is pad dependent too in my experience.
 
MichaelM said:
My only point of contention was the comment that they finish the same. It may look that way but you'd have to remove OPS's sealant properties to really make that kind of comparison.
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Okay but that is my whole point. I get what I want in one step. It doesn't matter to me that the protective properties of OPS 'aid' it, especially when a gallon of OPS is $40 and a quart of 106FF is $50. Why would I want to remove the protective qualities to compare it that way if using OPS as is gives me what I consider an equal (though, agreed, not the same exact look) quality finish?
 
I only have the old version of OHC (just a sample) from Optimum. I've tried today via rotary and green Propel v2 and I really liked its work, more than the results achieved via Power Gloss.

I've tried some finishing polishes and nothing beats 106FF, it's like magic. One pass of OHC, or 3M Fast Cut and then 106FF and everything perfect.

I used 2 times the new PO106FA and it's very similar to 106FF, My eyes can't find differences.
 
maesal said:
I only have the old version of OHC (just a sample) from Optimum. I've tried today via rotary and green Propel v2 and I really liked its work, more than the results achieved via Power Gloss.

I've tried some finishing polishes and nothing beats 106FF, it's like magic. One pass of OHC, or 3M Fast Cut and then 106FF and everything perfect.

I used 2 times the new PO106FA and it's very similar to 106FF, My eyes can't find differences.
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What makes the new fa version better than the new ff? Is it true there is less dust?
 
Scottwax said:
Okay but that is my whole point. I get what I want in one step. It doesn't matter to me that the protective properties of OPS 'aid' it, especially when a gallon of OPS is $40 and a quart of 106FF is $50. Why would I want to remove the protective qualities to compare it that way if using OPS as is gives me what I consider an equal (though, agreed, not the same exact look) quality finish?
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Not really, because the polishing properties of OPS don't hold a candle to Menzerna, and the silicone/sealer in OPS washes off/diminishes quick.



I guess if you're a pro and want something that looks great initially for the 'in and out' OPS fits the bill. Maybe it's just not for me :)
 
I agree with some here that there are polishes and compounds out there that do heavy to light correction work and finish out to a gloss without fillers, glazes, sealers, and waxes. However they are neither optimum or menzerna.
 
:LOLOL Your good bence! I did not even mention a name and you knew exactly. Good Job!



They do however fix defects and do finish out to a great gloss. The heaviest compound they do have will need to be finished off with a finish polish on certain colors. I will then use menzerna po106ff for the ultimate gloss.



But the light cut I can use on a lc yellow pad with a pc and remove oxidation and finish out to a high gloss taking 5 minutes per panel on most colors. On darker colors if I want that even more wow intense glow and even more metallic pop then I will use a lc white pad with po106ff and the gloss will go through the roof! I love the look on my customers face as they can not even believe it is there car!



But presta will turn dull paint into glossy paint in one step and ready for lsp that 95% will love and be very happy with.
 
I have been detailing cars for almost 20 years and if I want deep gloss on an older car and the customer pays the money, I always go over the car with a rotory with a wool pad with presta 1500 to level and smooth out the paint to a glass-like surface.



I bought a bottle of op and tried it with a wool pad and it did take out the defects very well, but it did leave a dull marred surface. The clean up of the excess was very easy to clean up though. I then used the pc with a white lc pad and it was shiny, but not breath taking glossy and what I am used to. I have to admit the clean up with op is easy!



Maybe most will be happy with the gloss with OP, and maybe I just expect more, but I am after the extreme gloss and my customers pay for just that! They just need to raise the gloss level and then I will be in heaven!
 
mgm121499 said:
Not really, because the polishing properties of OPS don't hold a candle to Menzerna, and the silicone/sealer in OPS washes off/diminishes quick.
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The correction of OPS does not diminish or wash off. What it removes, stays removed. I tend not to use it as an LSP but usually put either a carnauba or Acrylic Jett over it but on cars I have used it as a one step on, the defects stay gone and the car is protected for a few months.



Again, I am not sure why some of y'all seem to be taking this so personally. I like Menzerna polishes and for clarity, they cannot be matched. But I am willing to sacrifice a slight bit of clarity for more depth. That is why I liked 106FF even more when I adding in some RMG. I am not sure why this seems to be hard to understand. I just have a different preference. :wall



I guess if you're a pro and want something that looks great initially for the 'in and out' OPS fits the bill.
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If it only looked great initially, I wouldn't use it on my own car, let alone customer's cars.



The way you make it sound, OPS is like Meguiars #7 or something. It isn't.
 
Scottwax said:
The correction of OPS does not diminish or wash off. What it removes, stays removed. I tend not to use it as an LSP but usually put either a carnauba or Acrylic Jett over it but on cars I have used it as a one step on, the defects stay gone and the car is protected for a few months.



Again, I am not sure why some of y'all seem to be taking this so personally. I like Menzerna polishes and for clarity, they cannot be matched. But I am willing to sacrifice a slight bit of clarity for more depth. That is why I liked 106FF even more when I adding in some RMG. I am not sure why this seems to be hard to understand. I just have a different preference. :wall







If it only looked great initially, I wouldn't use it on my own car, let alone customer's cars.



The way you make it sound, OPS is like Meguiars #7 or something. It isn't.
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IMHO You get very similar results with #7. Looks decent initially, but washes off quick.



Can you compare Prime Strong to OPS (since we're mixing and matching products)?
 
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