Optimum Poli-Seal not working for me

W

whatjigg

New member
Hello, well I recently bought some optimum poli-seal and have now tried it on two cars both by hand on a cooler day in the shade (15-16 degrees Cel.) neither with spectacular results. Used on an '02 Honda Accord (dark blue) and an '08 nighthawk black pearl Honda Civic.



Process I followed...

- wash w/ Meg's Gold Class & dry

- spot specific claying (only on the accorde)

- wash & dry again

- Optimum Poli-Seal by hand

- Clearkote Carnauba Moose Wax by hand <-- an amazing product!!



I found that the Poli-Seal did nothing to correct very minor paint imperfections or swirls on the older car and on the new car didn't change anything (or add anything to looks). I found if I did one complete section at a time (like the hood) it was quite difficult to buff off so I opted to do small parts of the car instead and simply wipe on/wipe off which prevented any streaking. I also tried using as small a quantity as possible as well as larger quantities to see what made a difference and had similar results.



Anyone have any recommendations of how to properly use this product by hand. From what I've read on the forum, Poli-Seal was originally designed to be applied by hand and I refuse to use any powered polisher (they continue to scare me even if they are said to be easy to use...still feels like taking a belt sander to the car).



Thanks in advance to any and all recommendations/advice. :spot
 
Use it by machine for best results. Same with any polish, actually. Take it from someone who polished out cars by hand the first 10 years or so I had my detailing business. You absolutely, positively cannot polish as deeply and evenly by hand as you can by machine. You either have to step up to at least a PC or UDM or settle for the inferior results you get from hand polishing.



/thread
 
Poli Seal isn't a swirl remover. You need to use a real swirl removing polish by PC first and then use Poli-Seal to top it off.
 
Scottwax said:
Use it by machine for best results. Same with any polish, actually. Take it from someone who polished out cars by hand the first 10 years or so I had my detailing business. You absolutely, positively cannot polish as deeply and evenly by hand as you can by machine. You either have to step up to at least a PC or UDM or settle for the inferior results you get from hand polishing.



/thread
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YEP - hands down you can apply less product, faster, with better results by machine than by hand - those that say differently aren't being objective and defend their old fashioned ways. Oh, and a DA polisher like the PC is about as safe as it can get - so safe that it comes up a little short when it comes to serious paint repair...But for routine polishing, minor correction and LSP application - it rules.

SO don't be afraid - once you use/see the results of a polisher, you'll never look back!
 
So i guess the bottom line here is don't bother with using Poli-Seal without a PC or machine polisher of some sorts.



Thanks for everyone's comments/advice, Cheers!
 
No actually the bottom line is to use per directions and have realistic expectations. I don't mean that to sound smart, but that's the best way I can put it.
 
Try again with a dampened applicator that will help and work in sections.



just get the applicator slightly wet and that should help out.
 
I agree a dual action buffer will work better then by hand 99%. The 1% is if your hitting the buffer against the panel :o Don't be scared of the machine, it will do wonders.



It's actually funny that I saw this thread because after I washed my car I wanted to do a quick coat of wax by hand today. After evaluating my NBP honda paint and seeing all the new, wonderful swirls, scratches and marks brought on by daily driving; I decided to use Poli-Seal instead. I also decided to do it by hand because I didn't feel like bothering with the PC, and I didn't have too much time. The car looked nice in the shade, but once the sun peaked I still have marring, and actually created some hologramming. I guess a terry applicator with it is to abrasive for the paint.
 
I have used Poli-seal both by hand, Cyclo and rotary. Hand application wasn't very easy at all, seemed to stick to the paint. By both machines it worked like a charm, very easy to work with as long as you get over the fact that it's almost invisible. It gives a nice glossy wet look esp on white.
 
Were you working it in to the paint well? Using it like a WOWO wax won't get you far at all with it.



On a side note, I've gotten great results by hand polishing out scratches under door handles with poliseal.
 
wannafbody said:
Poli Seal isn't a swirl remover. You need to use a real swirl removing polish by PC first and then use Poli-Seal to top it off.
Click to expand...



While I'll agree that Poli-Seal isn't meant to be used as a dedicated swirl remover, it still does some light correction. I think PS is a good first step for the OP, especially considering it's soft Honda paint he's working on.



On the Mini Cooper below, I used Poli-Seal on a polishing pad via the Flex:



Before

IMG_3869.jpg




After

IMG_3871.jpg




IMG_3872.jpg
 
yea i definitly wasn't working it in really well, i'll give it another try when i have LOTS of time and energy to do so
 
That looks like alot of correction to me, i can't wait to try mine once it comes in, would a LC white pad do a job as good as that with a flex? what speed?
 
I'm not at all impressed with it either. I also ordered ONR , OCW (new formula), int.protectent , tire shine. Not impressed with any of these products but I will give the nod to the ONR , nice cleaner , waterless wash type of product.
 
you hand job guys kill me, just buy a buffer. Prep is more important than product and proper product selection comes from experience. I'm assuming since you don't have a machine, you're either inexperienced or are expecting too much from an AIO. It works terrific for me and many others here. A PC is nothing to be afraid of you really should try one. Then after you go to a rotary you can use the PC to apply wax and do carpets. An alternative to spending the time and money learning how to use the tools and products of the trade correctly is paying a professional. That will save you lots of frustration.
 
dmcphee07SI said:
That looks like alot of correction to me, i can't wait to try mine once it comes in, would a LC white pad do a job as good as that with a flex? what speed?
Click to expand...



mshu7 said:
While I'll agree that Poli-Seal isn't meant to be used as a dedicated swirl remover, it still does some light correction. I think PS is a good first step for the OP, especially considering it's soft Honda paint he's working on.



On the Mini Cooper below, I used Poli-Seal on a polishing pad via the Flex:
Click to expand...



I always use the Flex on speed 6.



I think some of you guys are forgetting that PS isn't meant for anything more than light correction. It's an AIO with some correction abilities. It cleans, corrects (again, light correction), and protects in one step. If you're looking for more than a 1-step product, you shouldn't be using PS and expecting miracles, especially by hand. If your goal is to remove swirls, step up to a true swirl remover. As ID said, if you're working by hand and you're trying to remove swirls, you might as well just buy a PC. It's not worth the time, effort, or inferior results to work by hand.



Fallguy said:
I'm not at all impressed with it either. I also ordered ONR , OCW (new formula), int.protectent , tire shine. Not impressed with any of these products but I will give the nod to the ONR , nice cleaner , waterless wash type of product.
Click to expand...



What exactly were you not impressed with? The Optimum products you mentioned do exactly what Optimum says they will do.



OPP is one of my favorite all-time products b/c it's not oily/greasy (water-based) and leaves a matte finish with good UV protection. If you were looking for a high-gloss finished result from the tire shine, you should have done a little more research before buying. Again, it's water-based so it leaves a matte finish. If you apply it to the tire, let it sit for 15-20 minutes, and then go back and remove the excess, it works very well. OCW is so easy to use you could use it after every wash. It takes 5 minutes max to wax a car. I think the paint looks even better the next day. Seems to have a darkening effect on the paint. Obviously, ONR is by far Optimum's best product so there's really nothing that I can say about it that hasn't been said before.
 
No I like matte finish tires . I'll try the wiping off thing. The OCW is a nice products but Im used to using sealants so I'm not used to a carnuba look. I just was not impressed , good stuff but not impressed. I keep trying different avenues though to see if I can get it to pop , clarity from it from it , ect....



Didn't mean to come across as it's bad because it's not , just different look than I used to. My primary is DG stuff that I have been using .
 
^^ Gotcha! Yeah, try my method for the tire shine. Allowing it to soak into the rubber before removal really heps give it a great look. If you can get the sun to bake the tire shine before you remove the excess, that helps even more.



Since you are a sealant guy, have you tried Opti-Seal? It's very good.
 
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