ONR video demo

bert31 said:
What tool do you use to reset the piston on the brake calipers?
Click to expand...



If you already have some of the tools, like a jack, jackstands, and a mechanic's tool set, then you'd save a lot of money doing it on your own. If you're never going to work on the car on your own, then it probably is better just letting someone else do it. Of course when other people work on your car, you'll always be "overcharged" compared to the amount of work that actually goes in. It might not be hard work, but you're paying for that person's expertise, time, cost of tools, cost of parts, cost of advertising, health insurance, etc. That goes for many things in life, like detailing, fixing computers, etc. It's not hard if you do your homework, but some people choose not to take the time or don't have the time, or maybe can't afford the initial investment required to complete the job.



If you're still interested in doing it youreslf, go to AutoZone and put a deposit for a brake tool kit. I believe it's $40. You get a full refund once you take it back. The front caliper's piston can easily be compressed using c-clamps, but you will need a special tool to do the rear caliper's piston. So instead of spending money on c-clamps and the adapter, you might as well rent it for free. Plus, their tool kit worked out better than what I had purchased on my own. Besides your prerequisite tools that you would need for most repair work, I also suggest you have a bungee cord or an old wire hanger to help hold up the caliper. Also, you might want to have sanding paper to resurface your rotor a bit so your new pads can break-in properly.



I can't help you with drums as I'm not familiar with that. But like Scott said, the hardest part about changing out your brake pads is probably removing the wheel. It might take you longer your first time, but after that it'll be a cinch.
 
Onr is great but I would never give up traditional washing, there are so many shampoo's so fun to use let alone very easy ways of drying. z7 drew me back to traditional washing, so pretty much 50/50 im either z7 or onr/qew. I have seen onr's limitations as far as marring concerns are the topic. If my black paint is dirty and not rinsed, I MUST wash in one motion (up and down) to reduce the marring effects, whereas traditional washing has proven to be much safer. Paint is going to get scratched no question, just use common sense and make sure you know how to use what you are using.



One thing about this video I would stress not to duplicate is even though it is a no rinse, use your mitt to rinse over the section you're washing. wring it out at the top of the section and it will help remove light dusting and other objects lying on the surface. Better safe than sorry, no need to immediately slap your mitt to dirty paint when all you have to do for reassurance is wring it a bit to rinse/no rinse away light dust and dirt.
 
I <3 ONR, but I cant bring myself to touch wash media/solution to dry paint. I have to presoak/spray a solution first, let is soak, then proceed. I love this method and have seen ZERO marring. I also use 1 oz/gallon ratio.
 
Jester7677 said:
I think what I need to see is a black car washed with ONR.



One side of the car with ONR.

One side of the car wrinsed then washed with water and car wash.

Dry.

Compare the sides and surface scratches.
Click to expand...

I just got my shipment in of this stuff and tried it out today on my black Acura which has ridiculously soft paint as all Honda paint does. Polished out my paint last weekend to just about 98% perfection, and I didn't notice any swirls put into the paint today. I was really blown away by how much dirt this stuff picked up.



Hopefully I can get simliar results in the Winter with a salt covered car. :scared:



altez said:
It is definately a product that a lot of people are skeptical about. I use to use ONR with the two bucket method and it was taking me about the same time as traditional washes. I stuck with traditional washes for a while until I saw a post on how some autopians use ONR with a single bucket. Haven't looked back since. I like it since it is eco frinedly good if you are in a water restricted area.
Click to expand...

I was a little afraid to just use a single bucket since I don't use a grit guard, and I don't think I ever will after seeing how much dirt was in my rinse bucket. I had to empty it twice. I just don't see how a one bucket method would work when a car is even dirtier.
 
I washed my car today as I have 4 hours to play with this thing,

I just didn't have the will to go ahead and do the car with just ONR

and 2 buckets, one has ONR and the other has water+soap "Meg Gold Class".

So I foamed the car up with foam gun on my karcher pressure washer, then rinsed

it with the pressure washer as far away as I could, pulled it inside the garage

and started using ONR with 2 wash mitts, 1 for the upper panels and the other for lower,

both buckets have grit guards.



I also presoak the panel I am about to wash with ONR

mixed in QD ratio using this Super Sprayer from Top of The Line

tolae_1967_46031510




so far so good, but it is taking me the same time as traditional washing, so unless I have

too, I will still be using the the same old routine...
 
BlackElantraGT said:
If you already have some of the tools, like a jack, jackstands, and a mechanic's tool set, then you'd save a lot of money doing it on your own. If you're never going to work on the car on your own, then it probably is better just letting someone else do it. Of course when other people work on your car, you'll always be "overcharged" compared to the amount of work that actually goes in. It might not be hard work, but you're paying for that person's expertise, time, cost of tools, cost of parts, cost of advertising, health insurance, etc. That goes for many things in life, like detailing, fixing computers, etc. It's not hard if you do your homework, but some people choose not to take the time or don't have the time, or maybe can't afford the initial investment required to complete the job.



If you're still interested in doing it youreslf, go to AutoZone and put a deposit for a brake tool kit. I believe it's $40. You get a full refund once you take it back. The front caliper's piston can easily be compressed using c-clamps, but you will need a special tool to do the rear caliper's piston. So instead of spending money on c-clamps and the adapter, you might as well rent it for free. Plus, their tool kit worked out better than what I had purchased on my own. Besides your prerequisite tools that you would need for most repair work, I also suggest you have a bungee cord or an old wire hanger to help hold up the caliper. Also, you might want to have sanding paper to resurface your rotor a bit so your new pads can break-in properly.



I can't help you with drums as I'm not familiar with that. But like Scott said, the hardest part about changing out your brake pads is probably removing the wheel. It might take you longer your first time, but after that it'll be a cinch.
Click to expand...





Thanks for the advice! I do simple stuff to my car, change oil and air filter, rotate tires, change spark plugs and wires, etc.. I didn't realize brake pads were so simple.
 
Harry -



By doing your 1st step on foaming the car and then the rinse off with the PW....it defeats the whole point of ONR.



I have ONR myself but have not bit the bullet and tried/tested/use it yet.
 
bert31 said:
What brand were they? I will go buy some in a heart beat.







Really? Mechanics sure charge a heck of alot for brake jobs. I assumed that was due to difficulty.
Click to expand...
We charge 65 for front pads/rotors and 60 for rear pads/rotors. Rear shoes/drums are 68, and split rotors are 68 as well. We use posiquiet jsut because of its cost-effectiveness for their low dust and low noise (avg costumer could care less for harder brake friction material.)



While you can change your pads in about 10 minutes there are more things involved than jsut swapping them out. We take off the shims (caliper bracket shims) and wire brush them down to the metal. This is also done to any caliper/caliper bracket contact point. You have to brake grease every contact point as well as the pads and their shims (if they have em.) We then clean the sliders then syl glyde them liberally to make sure the have proper movement. If you dont lubricate the sliders you risk uneven inner/outer pad wear.



So remember dont give your local mechanic a hard time even though there are alot of hack jobs out there!
 
BlackElantraGT said:
If you already have some of the tools, like a jack, jackstands, and a mechanic's tool set, then you'd save a lot of money doing it on your own. If you're never going to work on the car on your own, then it probably is better just letting someone else do it. Of course when other people work on your car, you'll always be "overcharged" compared to the amount of work that actually goes in. It might not be hard work, but you're paying for that person's expertise, time, cost of tools, cost of parts, cost of advertising, health insurance, etc. That goes for many things in life, like detailing, fixing computers, etc. It's not hard if you do your homework, but some people choose not to take the time or don't have the time, or maybe can't afford the initial investment required to complete the job.



If you're still interested in doing it youreslf, go to AutoZone and put a deposit for a brake tool kit. I believe it's $40. You get a full refund once you take it back. The front caliper's piston can easily be compressed using c-clamps, but you will need a special tool to do the rear caliper's piston. So instead of spending money on c-clamps and the adapter, you might as well rent it for free. Plus, their tool kit worked out better than what I had purchased on my own. Besides your prerequisite tools that you would need for most repair work, I also suggest you have a bungee cord or an old wire hanger to help hold up the caliper. Also, you might want to have sanding paper to resurface your rotor a bit so your new pads can break-in properly.



I can't help you with drums as I'm not familiar with that. But like Scott said, the hardest part about changing out your brake pads is probably removing the wheel. It might take you longer your first time, but after that it'll be a cinch.
Click to expand...



If you're lucky, you can compress the pistons with your fingers. I was lucky. :)
 
BBS01 said:
We charge 65 for front pads/rotors and 60 for rear pads/rotors. Rear shoes/drums are 68, and split rotors are 68 as well. We use posiquiet jsut because of its cost-effectiveness for their low dust and low noise (avg costumer could care less for harder brake friction material.)



While you can change your pads in about 10 minutes there are more things involved than jsut swapping them out. We take off the shims (caliper bracket shims) and wire brush them down to the metal. This is also done to any caliper/caliper bracket contact point. You have to brake grease every contact point as well as the pads and their shims (if they have em.) We then clean the sliders then syl glyde them liberally to make sure the have proper movement. If you dont lubricate the sliders you risk uneven inner/outer pad wear.



So remember dont give your local mechanic a hard time even though there are alot of hack jobs out there!
Click to expand...



Those are some competitive prices. You aren't by chance near Louisville, KY are you???????
 
chefwong said:
Harry -



By doing your 1st step on foaming the car and then the rinse off with the PW....it defeats the whole point of ONR.



I have ONR myself but have not bit the bullet and tried/tested/use it yet.
Click to expand...



You are right, I am sure killing the purpose of ONR but, unless there is a really

safe way to wash with this thing that is at least swirl free guaranteed I will not

use ONR although I have a brand new package in my garage I have not opened yet from

top of the line, it has a gallon of ONR.

I know most will say there is no guarantees but I have achieved 98% safe washing routine

on my car with shampoo, if ONR works as good or better then why not?



you know what, the day I see Accumulator wash his jag with ONR, then :dig



BigJimZ28



Thanks for letting me know I over paid! :wall
 
I use ONR as well but end up going through about 3-4 "The Dehydrator" towels.



I like the towel he uses in the video, it looks pretty plush and is fairly large. Can someone tell me where I can find a towel like that in Toronto or even Canada?



I'm a little hesitant on using some of the towels at Linen Stores even if they are marked made in the usa :)



Thanks!
 
RiCeBrNr said:
I use ONR as well but end up going through about 3-4 "The Dehydrator" towels.



I like the towel he uses in the video, it looks pretty plush and is fairly large. Can someone tell me where I can find a towel like that in Toronto or even Canada?



I'm a little hesitant on using some of the towels at Linen Stores even if they are marked made in the usa :)



Thanks!
Click to expand...



I just bought the same one in the video from Top of Line 2 of those which are MF,

also bought the once that look like a towel but it is a wash mitt 2 of those as will , and also a sea

sponge. I can see why a sea sponge will be the best thing for ONR, but I also

have backup in case one doesn't work ;)
 
RiCeBrNr said:
I like the towel he uses in the video, it looks pretty plush and is fairly large. Can someone tell me where I can find a towel like that in Toronto or even Canada?
Click to expand...



It looks similar to Danase.com's Extremely Large Water Devourer. Very nice towel, very large towel also 26 X 48. Recommend even if it costs $20. The regular Water Devourer costs I believe $10, obviously not as large 16 X 24.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top