ONR Rules!

I've also noticed the film from ONR. I suspect this is caused from the Polymers in ONR that bond to the paint and protect it from the washing process. I'm not one to put any kind of wax on my windshield but ever since I started using ONR I noticed a RAIN-X effect on the windshield. The water just beads and runs up the windshield while driving. So for me this proves something is left behind by the ONR.



The first time I used ONR I noticed the film, and just after washing the slickness wasn't that great but seemed to improve over time. I now follow up with a QD after ONR and haven't noticed the film since.
 
Wise 85 said:
Could those thst use ONR/QEW tell me if you would use it to clean a car that isn't 'filthy' but has dirt accumulation under the fenderwells.
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A temp solution I use since is using Armor Tire foam for the wells - it cleanese and dresses all in one.
 
Fallguy said:
Can you explain how you do that , thinking of ordereing some.
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I just follow the directions on the bottle...



This is my write-up on another board.



Steps:



1. Using a capful or approximately one half ounce of Optimum No Rinse (ONR), add it to one gallon of water in the bucket.



2. Clean your wheels, tires and fenderwells using the ONR mixture and your brushes, wipe dry with the terry cloth towels.



3. Dress the wheels and fenderwells with your tire dressing-and don't forget the fenderwells! Dirty fenderwells detract from an otherwise clean and shiny car!



*The reason to do the wheels and fenderwells first is so when you apply the tire dressing, any overspray will be washed off the car during the washing step.*



4. Empty out your bucket and refill with clean water, adding one half to one full ounce of ONR (less if relatively clean, more if really dirty).



5. Using a chenille covered foam pad or a wash mitt, wash one section of the car at a time and dry immediately using two microfiber towels, one for the first drying pass and making sure you leave a little moisture behind, use the other towel for a second drying pass. If you get the panel completely dry with the first towel, then don't go over it with the second towel because rubbing even a soft microfiber towel on dry paint can leave streaks.



Once you get the process down (it may take a couple washes to really nail it) you should be able to wash the body of your car in 20 minutes or less unless it is really filthy.



6. After washing open your doors, gas cap door and trunk or hatch and wipe down all the jambs.
 
CRXican said:
I'm not one to put any kind of wax on my windshield but ever since I started using ONR I noticed a RAIN-X effect on the windshield. The water just beads and runs up the windshield while driving. So for me this proves something is left behind by the ONR.
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FWIW, Meguiars NXT Glass Cleaner and Eagle 20/20 Glass Cleaner have the same 'RainX' effect as well.
 
Scott - I don't spray tire dressing so I felt doing the tires/wheels last made the most sense. I also think I got better mileage out of the product using the pump sprayer. I wasn't being stingy and washed my mid size SUV with 1/2 gallon of mix (including tires/wheels).
 
Mark77 said:
I guess that's one big minus with using ONR or QEW, you can't clean the fenderwells or underbody like you can using a hose. This is where most of the rust starts, not on the paint. Another thing I have noticed is that the mitt and/or MF towels become very dirty using QEW/ONR. When I use a hose and normal soap everything stays pretty clean. But they have their purpose(love the QD mix using ONR), but for me a normal wash is faster and easier and more safe for the paint.
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Well, my fenderwells are plastic up front and the rears are really coated - not much rust is gonna start in either. Even here in the northeast with lots of salt, fenderwells in general hold up really well. It's the body, rocker panels, fenders behind wheels and lower parts of doors that take a beating.

Towels that get dirty can be washed and as to a "normal wash", in about a month any outdoor hose will be frozen solid around here. So it's either coin-op or a no rinse product.



Last, I don't really think you can do a conventional wash 'n dry as fast, but that's just my opinion and I don't feel like a race!
 
abbeysdad said:
Last, I don't really think you can do a conventional wash 'n dry as fast, but that's just my opinion and I don't feel like a race!
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I'll race anyone here with me using ONR vs someone's conventional washing. ;)
 
Mark77 said:
I guess that's one big minus with using ONR or QEW, you can't clean the fenderwells or underbody like you can using a hose. This is where most of the rust starts, not on the paint. Another thing I have noticed is that the mitt and/or MF towels become very dirty using QEW/ONR. When I use a hose and normal soap everything stays pretty clean. But they have their purpose(love the QD mix using ONR), but for me a normal wash is faster and easier and more safe for the paint.
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I haven't used ONR, but I have used QEW in the winter. I have been doing normal washes this summer, but will be going ONR soon, seems like everyone likes it better than QEW.



Honestly, ONR/QEW washes are just as safe for the paint as hose washes. They really are. You wouldn't think it but its true, and I personally find them much easier and quicker.



What I do in the winter is, if its particularly dirty I'll stop at the coin op and spray out the fenderwells before doing the ONR wash, but typically I just wash them out with the sponge when doing the wheels.



No problems with rust anywhere when its below freezing anyways.
 
My foam gun and giant GC shampoo jug have sat unused for the past 3 months since I got the ONR. Love that stuff!
 
Scottwax said:
I'll race anyone here with me using ONR vs someone's conventional washing. ;)
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LOL - Okay, Scott - my money's on you! I think it can be quicker, maybe even half the time.



Got any takers to the challenge?



Seriously, as much as efficiency is important, so is taking the time to do a good job. However, I'd be interested in feedback on this.

How long does it take for an avg. conventional wash 'n dry vs. a no rinse wash?



Can we 'really' do the wheels/tires & wheel wells as well either way?



Does the film left behind with ONR present any issues (e.g. a potential negative if applying some LSP)?
 
thesacrifice said:
I'm going to try using sheepskin my next ONR wash instead of MF.
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I don't think that will work anywhere near as well as wiping the dirt off with a waffle weave MF*, but I'll be curious so please report back.

(*but maybe that's because I sprayed the ONR on the panel and the WW MF rinse towel is the wet wipe.)
 
I do wheels, tires, wells every time I use ONR. I just make sure I have seperate bucket, my mazda pads dust like crazy and leave the dust in the bucket. I use a power puff and and a grout sponge for the front wells (backs are carpeted). I spray the solution with on , let is sit for a moment, dip which ever brush (power puff/ wheel/ tire) and go at it.



ONR does leave a little something on the paint, but not enough to mess with bonding of any lsp's I've tried. That in includes spray waxes, sealants, and nubas.



Sheepskins work fine with ONR, I do find that my drying towel gets a little dirtier than when I use mf for the washing pass. Does it really matter though? You're wiping the dirt over the surface either way.
 
Huarache said:
Sheepskins work fine with ONR, I do find that my drying towel gets a little dirtier than when I use mf for the washing pass. Does it really matter though? You're wiping the dirt over the surface either way.
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The difference I see is simply this: The sheepskin works great for the conventional wash where you're mostly using it to agitate the dirt and soapy water into solution where it can be rinsed off. With ONR, you're literally wiping the dirt off and for this I think the WW MF towel will work better than any wash mitt (same reason you wouldn't use a wash mitt for a dry wipe down or a QD.)

Just my take. But it's all about finding the best process/products to achieve the desired outcome. And that requires different trials.
 
Scottwax, do you feel that with ONR it is better to wash the car with a Wash Mitt as compared to a MF towel?









Scottwax said:
I just follow the directions on the bottle...



This is my write-up on another board.



Steps:



1. Using a capful or approximately one half ounce of Optimum No Rinse (ONR), add it to one gallon of water in the bucket.



2. Clean your wheels, tires and fenderwells using the ONR mixture and your brushes, wipe dry with the terry cloth towels.



3. Dress the wheels and fenderwells with your tire dressing-and don't forget the fenderwells! Dirty fenderwells detract from an otherwise clean and shiny car!



*The reason to do the wheels and fenderwells first is so when you apply the tire dressing, any overspray will be washed off the car during the washing step.*



4. Empty out your bucket and refill with clean water, adding one half to one full ounce of ONR (less if relatively clean, more if really dirty).



5. Using a chenille covered foam pad or a wash mitt, wash one section of the car at a time and dry immediately using two microfiber towels, one for the first drying pass and making sure you leave a little moisture behind, use the other towel for a second drying pass. If you get the panel completely dry with the first towel, then don't go over it with the second towel because rubbing even a soft microfiber towel on dry paint can leave streaks.



Once you get the process down (it may take a couple washes to really nail it) you should be able to wash the body of your car in 20 minutes or less unless it is really filthy.



6. After washing open your doors, gas cap door and trunk or hatch and wipe down all the jambs.
Click to expand...
 
abbeysdad said:
The difference I see is simply this: The sheepskin works great for the conventional wash where you're mostly using it to agitate the dirt and soapy water into solution where it can be rinsed off. With ONR, you're literally wiping the dirt off and for this I think the WW MF towel will work better than any wash mitt (same reason you wouldn't use a wash mitt for a dry wipe down or a QD.)

Just my take. But it's all about finding the best process/products to achieve the desired outcome. And that requires different trials.
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Good point.. If I use a sheepskin, I always do a second pass with a plush mf, then dry with a plush mf as well. I never use ww mf's when no rinsing, just to take advantage of the nap of plush mf's, even if it is a glorified advantage.



So the sheepskin for me, is still about gently dislodging dirt.. the next pass with the mf is about getting if off of the paint.



I don't really use ONR for speed, in fact I take longer than doing a convential wash. I find that the panel by panel approach necessary to avoid ONR drying on the surface takes me longer. I'm still pleased with the results though... I've got to get another gallon here pretty soon.





Roadmaster.. Scott has metioned several times that he uses chenile covered pads, and a combo of terry/ mf (excel yellow I believe) for drying.
 
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