Nitro Seal

wascallyrabbit said:
so a heavier than air inert gas would work (ie argon).



Indeed. The Bloxygen was a tip I picked up from a painter friend of mine, he uses either that or his welding gas to seal up containers of paint hardener so that air isn't breaking down the solvents in it, increasing shelf life. This sealant sounds like it needs similar treatment.
 
Part A or Part B ???? If it is part B could you just add water or some other type of solvent to the bottle??? I have several products that have seperated and the solvent is on top of the product. But I think I can get a hold to some oxygen... Thanks for letting me know. My red RX8 looks awesome.



I checked both used bottles and they seem to be fine. Tighted up the cap real good.



PS For those that don't know yet, Part A is a clear liquid that is like some type of solvent. Part B is a creamy liquid like Poxy.



Ben@Autopia said:
The solvents begin to evaporate. The bottles are sealed before hand.
 
Someone emailed me and asked these questions. Will post it here as it may answer some of your questions.



Do BOTH Part A (clear liquid) and Part B (Poxy on steroids creme) need to be used within 2-3 days of opening?



Due to the reactivity characteristics of A&B, we have chosen to bottle them separately and mix them on the vehicle surface. HD Nitro Seal is moisture sensitive and should be kept in airtight containers.To ensure the longevity of the shelf life; each bottle is topped with nitrogen gas. Therefore we recommend to use the kit within few days after opening.



If you have left over products in the bottles make sure to keep them real tight and in a dry area. The moisture in the air reacts with the amino-functional fluids and make them loose the curing ability. If kept with a tight seal, a few months later you will still have a good sealant and wax. It will still be much better than Poxy alone.



If it's JUST Part A, then after part B is opened, can it be used to layer another coat of B maybe a week or month or two later?



Both Part A or B can be used a month or two after opening. They will not be in their optimum condition though. Some have recommended Bloxygen which may increase longevity once opened.



What is the downside of just using Part B?.......For example, after using both A+B, say a month later, I wish to do some minor polishing to a section of the car and rather than opening up new bottles. Could I just use a previously opened bottle of B without affecting the look?



Yes. The reason we call Part B "Poxy on Steroids" is that it is HD Poxy with a much higher content of silicone resins and amino functional fluids which helps to fuse with Part A to create excellent bonding. Using just Part A or B later will be perfectly fine. They worked better combined though.
 
So Ben, Can you do a second coat of part A & part B a week after the first application without it Affecting the first???? Thanks you have Ben helpful !!!
 
MDRX8 said:
So Ben, Can you do a second coat of part A & part B a week after the first application without it Affecting the first???? Thanks you have Ben helpful !!!



A is the protective coating while B being the sacrificial. Should not add more protective coating on top of the sacrificial layer. ( A > B > A. :think: Reminds me of a sandwich. Must be hungry or something. Oh ya, skipped breakfast. :tongue1: )



Just add B or Poxy to top up the sacrificial layer.
 
wascallyrabbit said:
think he's saying a>b> wait a week then a>b.



I was saying I was hungry. A is bread and B is meat... A > B > A sandwich.



Not the best way to use Nitro Seal though. Use A and always followup with B(unless you repolish, clay, IPA, etc. )
 
So A > B > B/C/D/E/F/G/H/I/J/K/L/M/N/O/P/Q/R/S/T/U/V/W/X/Y/Z > B/C/D/E/F/G/H/I/J/K/L/M/N/O/P/Q/R/S/T/U/V/W/X/Y/Z > etc. unless you polish/clay/IPA/dawn (any LSP removal technique), then go back to A.

I'm curious about the durability of it as well... I can't remember who it was but they did an older green Porsche with Nitro Seal and it resulted in that wet Zaino (faux-carnauba) look that I love. Also, what are we looking at price-wise and will it be something along the lines of multiple tiny individually packaged containers, or will it be like Opti Coat where you'll just have to deal with your one little container at a time and try to use it up before its short shelf life expires?
 
SpoolinNoMore said:
So A > B > B/C/D/E/F/G/H/I/J/K/L/M/N/O/P/Q/R/S/T/U/V/W/X/Y/Z > B/C/D/E/F/G/H/I/J/K/L/M/N/O/P/Q/R/S/T/U/V/W/X/Y/Z > etc. unless you polish/clay/IPA/dawn (any LSP removal technique), then go back to A.

I'm curious about the durability of it as well... I can't remember who it was but they did an older green Porsche with Nitro Seal and it resulted in that wet Zaino (faux-carnauba) look that I love. Also, what are we looking at price-wise and will it be something along the lines of multiple tiny individually packaged containers, or will it be like Opti Coat where you'll just have to deal with your one little container at a time and try to use it up before its short shelf life expires?



Ya, or you can use numbers if you like 1>2>3> repeat: 2 > 3, repeat: 2, 3....Now IPA wipe down > 1 > 2 > 3 Think you got the hang of it, but we confused everyone in the process. The answer is after all, 42 to everything.



The Nitro Seal will be package in a single unit which includes:

Part A (1.5 oz)

Part B (2 oz)

two applicators

microfiber

glove

instruction sheet



We are going for the wet look *pop* while lasting as long as a sealant can without being a true coating(which sacrifices the look to be long lasting)

The price is going to be $59.99.
 
Well, I broke the above rules and did another coat of Nitro Seal using Part A then Part B. Turned out awesome.... Nice wet look....
 
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