New painted panels are cloudy, hazy with certain light, help! pics inside

Bence said:
Based on the pics, the light defects don't require the need of a heavy compound.



At the end we might have a nice surface, and a milky, way-off-color.
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I'm with Bence on this one (heh heh, per usual ;) ), the milkiness doesn't look like just a side-effect of the marring to me either. It simply looks *wrong*...milky and cloudy. Under/in the clear, not just hazing.



And yeah, black can be tricky to match; there are a zillion different blacks and while it's not as bad as white, it can take some doing to get things right especially when it's a not-new vehicle with some aging on the OE finish. But this doesn't look like just a color-match issue to me. If sitting in the sun or some other accelerated outgassing doesn't make things better, I suspect the painter is gonna have to redo it.



Oh, and I wouldn't seal a freshly repainted panel either, I'd let it outgas/cure for a few months.
 
Addendum- What painter lets such a job leave his shop? It shouldn't be up to the customer to do the inspection for stuff like this. Wonder if the painter is acquainted with a SunGun :rolleyes:



Sorry, but I don't cut guys much slack when they mess up a customer's black 'vette. I can't help but think it got "inspected" under fluorescent lights or somesuch...
 
the_invisible said:
I have never had any issues with mismatch colors on my black cars. The reason I choose black for almost all my cars is because they are extremely easy to match, without having to respray or blend-in other panels.



Frankly, I am extremely picky about the conditions of my cars, and I just cannot see any mistmatch on my black cars. On my silver car, yes I see mismatch. Even my white Infiniti has some panel mismatch between metal and urethane. However, I do not think matching black paint is all that hard, be it solid or metallic.
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I have to disagree. Metallic Black is difficult to match. For example, the Black Mica from Mazda varies all the time. Shops will order it by paint code but they always have to tint to either add more blue or more yellow. Also, take a look at the Honda Metallic black, There's a ton of blue in that paint...It's not as hard to match as a three stage pearl but it still takes a talented painter to match metallic black paint just right. Solid black however does not require any tinting or blends to match right. Sometimes it looks a bit off becuase the unpainted panels need to be brought back (for lack of better terminology).



I agree with some of the things others were saying. It's rare that the plastic bumper will match the body panels perfectly. It's a necessary evil that even comes from the factory.
 
Thanks for all the responses, when I get everything in I will do a test spot and see how it turns out.



They mentioned there are 7 different shades of black for the C6 and they ran into this problem before which is why they asked for my fuel door. It is strange, it matches the rest of the car perfectly under most light conditions, the car just has to be at a certain angle in the sun or using a fluorescent light has to be at the right angle either. At night in any type of lighting like parking garages or bright gas stations, the paint looks perfect.



One thing I did not mention. I brought it back to the shop a few days later after seeing the haze, and due to time restrictions they wanted to buff one side and see if it would help. They did the passenger side, the pictures I posted is on the drivers side. I did not ask what they were using, but it was a quick 90min test to see if it would help. It seems to be less cloudy under a fluorescent light. There is a noticeable difference between the two sides so that leads me to suspect it is fixable with a little work and time. At least I'm hoping it will haha.
 
Big Turkey said:
Thanks for all the responses, when I get everything in I will do a test spot and see how it turns out.



They mentioned there are 7 different shades of black for the C6 and they ran into this problem before which is why they asked for my fuel door. It is strange, it matches the rest of the car perfectly under most light conditions, the car just has to be at a certain angle in the sun or using a fluorescent light has to be at the right angle either. At night in any type of lighting like parking garages or bright gas stations, the paint looks perfect.



One thing I did not mention. I brought it back to the shop a few days later after seeing the haze, and due to time restrictions they wanted to buff one side and see if it would help. They did the passenger side, the pictures I posted is on the drivers side. I did not ask what they were using, but it was a quick 90min test to see if it would help. It seems to be less cloudy under a fluorescent light. There is a noticeable difference between the two sides so that leads me to suspect it is fixable with a little work and time. At least I'm hoping it will haha.
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You turkey!



While I am not saying this is with everyone, most painters don't know hot to finish with a buffer. They can cut and polish but that is about it. I know Flashtime will chime in. :D
 
creina1221 said:
I have to disagree. Metallic Black is difficult to match. For example, the Black Mica from Mazda varies all the time. Shops will order it by paint code but they always have to tint to either add more blue or more yellow. Also, take a look at the Honda Metallic black, There's a ton of blue in that paint...It's not as hard to match as a three stage pearl but it still takes a talented painter to match metallic black paint just right. Solid black however does not require any tinting or blends to match right. Sometimes it looks a bit off becuase the unpainted panels need to be brought back (for lack of better terminology).
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Are you implying that it's acceptable for panels to have mismatched colors after an area on the car has been repainted? There's no justification for shoddy quality paint job. While there are less experienced painters that are not as capable at paint mixing than others, there's no excuse for panels to mismatch in color. Period.



I've owned a 2006 Mazda3 Black Mica. Never had a problem with mismatch between the plastic and metal panels from the factory, as well as aftermarket paint. I had the aftertmarket lip and grill painted for $400 at a local shop. Not the cheapest price out there, but $400 is the industry's standard rate for a lip + grill paint job.





Find a better paint shop. :lol







creina1221 said:
I agree with some of the things others were saying. It's rare that the plastic bumper will match the body panels perfectly. It's a necessary evil that even comes from the factory.
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I also own a few other cars with metallic black (Porsche 997 and BMW 335i). No mismatch whatsoever from the factory.





Again, there's NO EXCUSE for factory panels to have mismatched colors. Just because some cars have quality issues from the factory, does not mean it is acceptable.
 
Flex agents are added to plastic and fiberglass panels. Look at an Evo X rear bumper shade. I'm guessing the shop didn't use a flex agent in the paint or another theory is using the wrong reducer/catalyst for the clear coat. When temp. levels are unmatched to a low temp solvent, they will flash faster but result in a lower luster finish (while still having the same matching color). Also, some clears can come with "spot panel" reducer/hardener and could possibly have the same effect if the place was using a low end paint line.



Adding on after rereading!

The painter could have also expedited the proper flash time between spraying clear coats. It's easy to do when you only have 2 panels on the same side and no alarm. I've seen that resulting in solvent pop, hazing, mottling, and some weird micro-checking.

Bottom line, it's just hard telling where they went wrong without seeing everything first hand or being at the shop, knowing the painter, seeing supply lines. I mean this could be caused by something so simple as a bottle of catalysis getting moisture after initial opening.
 
I'm confused, are you referring to the bumper talk in here or to my particular situation?



I suspect half of you guys responding believe I should get them repainted, others are saying it's an easy fix. I suppose we'll see!
 
Factory paint mismatch today is a common thing. Plastic parts are always different which is especially noticeable on lighter colors. Just look closely at the press photos of basically any of the new cars.



Bodies and plastics are painted in different locations and with different paint recipes. Plastics have flex agents and the entire paint film matrix is thinner than 15-20 years ago even with for example a 3-wet high solid paint. So when a paint shop wants your fuel door, don't give it them if it's plastic. Provide the exact code, but not even this will be absolutely reliable.



Dunno, but I feel better when I have more then 150 microns on a new car instead of the 80-90 I see on some models.



But, because of the poor refinishing techniques, the Hungarian Vehicle Importers Association declared that even a >300 micron finish has to be qualified as "factory new" when the car was damaged during transport, but the responsible company (which does the transport/storing) refinished it to a certain standard...
 
Big turkey,



They used the wrong black and/or wrong technique. If it's a high-end shop like

you say then they already know why and what to do about it.



NEVER expect an exact "color match." There is no such thing. Ever. And that

term needs to be done away with, really. Instead, it should be a "blendable match."

Generally, blacks are easier than any other color. But, obviously, it can be tricky

too for a slew of reasons.
 
those panels straight up dont match you can sand buff glaze but that will never match get it redone it looks horrible
 
I owned black vehicles for over thirty years -- mostly because the "purty" metallics never seemed to match. Chances of getting a "near perfect" match on these vehicles was about 50/50 and this was always from a "high end" shop. Other than varying shades of black, you have weather conditions at the time of spraying and matching factory orange peel to consider.



Many times the body shop's work was much better than the original paint.



"Perfectionism" is a "curse". :D



Tom
 
I would not try to fix it take it back to the painter if you do to much work on it he may say it is your falt besides that is what you paid him for. I would be more wored about the paint on my vett not matching than the swirls and buff marks
 
Thanks for all the replies, I took it back to the paint shop and they fixed my problem. I actually ended up the better end of the deal, since they wet/color sanded the adjacent panels to match the fenders, therefore getting rid of my factory orange peel!



I'm putting a good coat of sealant on it now and will wax it throughout the week. Since it will be raining this entire week, hopefully I can get some nice pictures next weekend.
 
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