Need a product that wont do this when it rains!

Amazing????? the only amazing thing about C4 is the price to effect ratio. Applied to my 2001 Nissan Frontier Saturday night according to directions, spent a lot of time rubbing it in, lightly wiped to remove excess, Rain Late Saturday night, all gone Sunday morning, back to weathered grey. Lots of products do that, I usually use Back to Black, works for weeks, unless it rains.
 
MIKE GILLEAN said:
Amazing????? the only amazing thing about C4 is the price to effect ratio. Applied to my 2001 Nissan Frontier Saturday night according to directions, spent a lot of time rubbing it in, lightly wiped to remove excess, Rain Late Saturday night, all gone Sunday morning, back to weathered grey. Lots of products do that, I usually use Back to Black, works for weeks, unless it rains.
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Did you clean with IPA before C4? I've had C4 on for a couple weeks and no problems.
 
Well cleaned, dried. Scrubbed w/ IPA, dried. Applied and rubbed in. I think the C4 was on top of the oxidation, not actually contacting plastic. I will remove oxidation with whatever it takes, the reapply C4 for an accurate test. No instructions from gtecniq included or online to address oxidation. Polymer products (B to B, Mothers, ect.) cover oxidation well, so I thought C4 would do the same. Looked good after application, but so does everything else. Rain is the problem w/polymer coatings. Wonder how Ultimate holds up to rain??
 
MIKE GILLEAN said:
C4 might not streak, but it washed off completely in first rain, 24 hours after application. Instructions followed completely. You think Ultima is expensive, gtechniq's C4 is insane!! 25 mL for $60.00 delivered. Would be worth it if it worked as advertised, but 2 years?? didn't last 2 Days!! I am going to break down and just paint them. 2001 Nissan Frontier. If you like it, I will sell you a 25 mL unopened bottle for 1/2 price.
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How much of the C4 do you have left?
 
Hmmm...now that makes me rethink the C4 since I'll only be using it on surfaces that're too weathered for my LSP-based approach :think:



And no, I'm not gonna paint my trim for a whole lotta reasons.
 
MIKE GILLEAN said:
As I am considering painting with a plastic paint, what would those reasons be??
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Assuming you're after a "good as new" job, there'd be masking (or r&r of the pieces in question), getting just the right finish, the question of how it'd age over time. I've seen a lot of work like this (wheelwells come to mind too) that was fine for a while and then turned into a real horror show. Chipping, peeling in the worst cases, or fading from UV/etc., or textural changes from wear.



That's leaving aside whether I could get a nice enough finish, that'd be tricky for me with a spray can and I no longer have a touchup gun. For somebody who *can* get the right finish that wouldn't be an issue, but I know how it sometimes goes when *I* do it :o
 
MIKE GILLEAN said:
PakShak is setting up to be a distributor. Cost w/ shipping is about the same as ordering direct.
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Pakshak is taking pre-orders and should have the products in this week or next. Will also ship flat rate.
 
What OP experienced is one of the reasons I abandoned traditional waxes and polymer sealants altogether. I've been using the glass coating (Bliss X, Crystal Guard Pro, and some lower priced glass coating goods such as Triz) for a few years and I don't have that type of problems after rain anymore. I still have P21S, Poor Boys' waxes/sealant, Meg's yellow wax, Pinnacle Souveran, Klass twins, and etc but I have not even bothered to use them anymore.
 
Thanks for info Accumulator. I Have cleaned off all oxidation and coated with AIO, looks great. Should stay on with rain, as it is for plastic too. Will cover with Klasse sealer, with polycharger added for UV protection. Comments????
 
MIKE GILLEAN said:
Thanks for info Accumulator. I Have cleaned off all oxidation and coated with AIO, looks great. Should stay on with rain, as it is for plastic too. Will cover with Klasse sealer, with polycharger added for UV protection. Comments????
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Note that, used by itself, the KAIO won't last long at all, despite what the label says.



Except for those rare cases where it just doesn't work, the KAIO + KSG combo is my overall fave for this sort of thing. Just remember to layer the KSG as one coat doesn't last long (neither does two or even three IMO; I shoot for six total). I even did the rubber surfaces on the Yukon's running boards/etc. with this.



You can refresh the KSG with Sonus Acrylic Spritz (or "Acrylic Glanz", or whatever they call it), and I at least use a little QD like FK425 or FK146 after ever wash.
 
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