My Flex XC 3401 VRG review

DJ_JonnyV said:
Tomi - using the Flex for this should not be a problem as I just did it today on an Acura RL I detailed. From the way it sounds like you were using your PC, you would use the Flex the same way. I've been able to "feather" it in areas such as bumpers. Just be careful not to crack the backing plate against anything. Actually, in real tight areas I'll still use the PC and a 4" Edge 2k pad.





^^oops...I guess we were typing at the same time, I obviously type slow.



Looks as though were on the same page.



DJ, you should try lifting the back of the pad off the paint. I've been able to get into some norrow areas using only half (or less) of the pad while lifting the back side just slightly off the paint. I think this method works great for narrow areas like A pillars and such...but for tight areas with the strong possibility of hitting something, like under the side mirrors, agreed 4" and PC.
 
Hey, Frostydog, thanks for the tip. I've actually been working on the lift technique and was getting a pretty good hang of it today on the RL I did. I still didn't have the cajones (sp?) to tilt that thing, or the PC w/ 4" for that matter, down the front of the A-pillar. It's literally abotu 1" wide. Yeah, that got the hand treatment with some 1z Paint Polish, along with sideviews and door handles. I definitely appreciate the tips though, so keep them coming!!!
 
So no problems with the Flex? I have been keeping up with this thread and am really looking forward to getting one. It all sounds great what the few people that have them are saying. I want one mainly to save time. PC just takes too long. I'd like to make one pass and make it LSP ready, that would be nice.
 
MobileJay said:
So no problems with the Flex? I have been keeping up with this thread and am really looking forward to getting one. It all sounds great what the few people that have them are saying. I want one mainly to save time. PC just takes too long. I'd like to make one pass and make it LSP ready, that would be nice.



No problems with the Flex so far with the small exception of the red velcro coming unglued. But, the guys at Powerhouse were extremely quick at getting me a replacement. You probably already have, but you might want to check out what I did here:



http://autopia.org/forum/machine-polishing/97517-just-ordered.html



on an Acura RL this weekend. It was hard to get pics of the swirling on the silver paint, but it was there. Using my standard technique with the Flex, Menz IP, orange pad, and speed 6, it finished things up nicely for LSP. And to be completely honest with you, I've even been able to break down Menzerna Power Gloss to LSP ready using a yellow pad as well. Now keep in mind that I do an up/down and right/left with no pressuer after my correcting action, and then gear down to about a 4 and do a little more. I'm not sure how much this is helping to clean things up after correction, but it seems to be working for me. I remember doing the hood on my A6 and getting after it pretty good with PG, and my neighbor watching over my shoulder. Hell, he couldn't believe the shine coming off that thing with PG.



My personal opinion anymore is that if you are looking to get a machine polisher, and don't want to go straight into rotary, then Flex is the way to go. Now, keep in mind we are still waiting for some more detailed revies on the Makita BO6040 and Bosch DEVS1250. Yeah, there's also the Festool out there, but at $440 + pads + polishes, you're looking at over 5 bills. I wouldn't even bother getting into a PC/UDM initially. The only benefit I see to these would be applying LSP and cleaning carpet. Well, I take that back a little bit. Using my PC with 4" spot pads is pretty sweet for hitting a tight area or just doing a bad scratch here or there.



So, have you already ordered one?
 
hi.

I'm have one car (white Nissan 350z) with light swirl and I may need to polish it every 5-6 months, or may be once a year. Do you guys think it's too much to get Flex ? or should I get a UDM ? I don't have any machine now, and never do any polish work before. If I get UDM, I can do 3" spot correction, and carpet brush, right? But I'll lose correction power of Flex.
 
DJ_JonnyV said:
... I've been able to "feather" it in areas such as bumpers.



frostydog said:
It's definitely possibe, its just what you said...you just have to have a firm grip and be paying attention. If anything I polish more of my car with a 6.5" pad and the Flex than I would with a PC .... With the Flex you can work on just one side of the pad much better than you can with the PC; making it possible to get into tight areas.



The Flex def takes a firmer grip than a PC...but I never had it just shoot off on it's own or do anything crazy like that .... For the most part you do need to use two hands and pay a little more attention, but really very little more than what's required to operate a PC. The more I use it the less "wild" it feels.



Awesome feedback guys. Thanks! :up :up
 
DJ_JonnyV said:
So, have you already ordered one?



No, I haven't ordered one yet. I am probably going to in the next few weeks. I was just wanting to read more about the machine, and this thread has been pretty helpful. Thanks.
 
MobileJay said:
I'd like to make one pass and make it LSP ready, that would be nice.

Just a note...the Flex is far from a "1 pass" polisher. It's cetainly many less passes than a PC, but far from being just one pass and you're done. You know what...I just realized I probably mis-understood what you meant by "pass".



slowpork said:
hi.

I'm have one car (white Nissan 350z) with light swirl and I may need to polish it every 5-6 months, or may be once a year. Do you guys think it's too much to get Flex ? or should I get a UDM ? I don't have any machine now, and never do any polish work before. If I get UDM, I can do 3" spot correction, and carpet brush, right? But I'll lose correction power of Flex.

I'm not really the guy to be answering this...because I don't even own a UDM. But IMO you'd be fine with either one, but if it was me (in your situation) I'd probably go with the UDM. I've only heard good things about it (switch issue, but I think that's fixed), the UDM has more options (everything you've mentioned), and at some point price has to enter the equation. The main thing the Flex has going for it is speed and maybe correcting ability...but I don't really know the UDM's correcting ability. I know it has more power than a PC, so I'm assuming it can correct better. Heck if you're doing one car once a year...make a weekend out of it and enjoy yourself!! I've said I believe the Flex can produce a better finish, but even that is arguable and subjective. With enough time and care...really anything is possible.
 
Other than the size of the backing plate when using 6.5" pads, have you guys noticed any disadvantages to using the hard backing plate? I checked the owner's manual for the Makita BO6040 and the Bosch 1250DEVS online, and it looks like they both have optional soft backing plates. The Flex only comes with the one.
 
Again, as Frostydog and I have stated quite a few times, as long as you're not daydreaming while you're polishing and aware fo what's going on, then you should be fine with the hard BP. I can't remember which car or what area fo the car, but I did have a brief scare once. I think it was up agains a tailight cover that the BP bumped into. It didn't do any damage and I kept moving. You need to be involved when using the Flex, and not thinking about whether you'll be getting lucky that night or not...
 
toml said:
Other than the size of the backing plate when using 6.5" pads, have you guys noticed any disadvantages to using the hard backing plate? I checked the owner's manual for the Makita BO6040 and the Bosch 1250DEVS online, and it looks like they both have optional soft backing plates. The Flex only comes with the one.



Take a look at posts 88-94 of this thread...we talk about exactly what you're asking about. Zoran makes a good point...flexable backing plates are far from being 100% safe.
 
frostydog said:
Take a look at posts 88-94 of this thread...we talk about exactly what you're asking about. Zoran makes a good point...flexable backing plates are far from being 100% safe.



Hmmm, I already knew from your posts there about the danger of hitting the backing plate against something due to the minimum clearance with a 6.5" pad. And Zoran's post too about the flexible BP.



I was more thinking about any disadvantages in polishing the curvey angles of the car with the rigid BP. The flexible BP has pliable edges and with the pad conforms pretty well to the surface of the car.
 
toml said:
I was more thinking about any disadvantages in polishing the curvey angles of the car with the rigid BP. The flexible BP has pliable edges and with the pad conforms pretty well to the surface of the car.



I don't think I really notice much of difference between the two in that regard. For the most part I would think the pad does most of the conforming.
 
Back
Top