My 500+ HP street car with VM + EX-P + Natty's

T

TriPinTaZ

New member
http://www.tripintaz.com/pic/nattys/





:bounce



I used SSR2.5 with a light cutting pad on the PC, speed 5 on a few areas that had more swirl marks then the rest of the car.



then I used VM with a polishing pad on speed 5 on the whole car.



then I did EX-P wit ha finishing pad on speed 4.



24 hours later I washed ( I love how EX-P sheets water ) then I dried and applied Natty's paste wax.
 
Great shine but if you're going to tease us with a topic title like that, let's see the engine and dyno slips.
 
you can visit www.tripintaz.com and click on the videos button and watch a few videos of dyno pulls and all Track runs. (track runs were BEFORE the installation of the TNT nitrous......which with the biggest jets should net about 750 fly wheel HP :))



Here is a pic of my engine bay before the new TNT nitrous kit.

I havent installed the Polished aluminum valve covers yet.

enginebay.JPG
 
1 Clean WS6 said:
Sweet detail!! :xyxthumbs



How much spray are you runnin'? ;)
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The engine was built to handle a 250 shot and the new TNT kit which isnt installed yet came with 150,200,and 250 jets. Last week at the track I ran a 12.02 @ 114.7 MPH on all motor with a 1.75 60 foot time in 80 degree weather. Car was on Nitto tires, through the muffler and full weight. Next week I am installing an electric water pump which should shave off a tenth. I havent tried to run it on the TNT kit yet. I could surely run 11.6-11.7's if I got slicks, but I refuse to run the car like this. MY car is a TRUE STREET CAR, I drive it to the track with the A/C on and race it, then I drive it home and wash it and take it to work the next morning. I hope to run 10s on the spray....but that all depends on traction. Example, that corvette I raced in the 2nd video was a supercharged Z06 flaunting 540 RWHP.....well he ran a 12.8 @ 123 spinning horrifically.



let me know what you all think !:wavey
 
I guess eventually I will have to break down and buy a set of slicks for it. I spent alot on the car, you cant tell by looking at the exterior but there is NOTHING stock about anything on the car. I love the fact it looks stockish ( doesnt sound anywhere near stock tho ) and no1 would assume Im packing that kind of horsepower, an Art Carr Race tranny( 3200 stall), moser 12 bolt ( nearly indestructable), and load of suspension parts......oh yeah and he 4 inch race exhaust from mufflex.com is what makes it sound so good.
 
I miss having a fast car so much! I've had a 1971 Chevelle that ran high 12's, a 1977 Old Cutlass with a 455 swapped in and a 1974 Z/28 with an L-82 and 3.73s. I sold the Z in 1990 and have been driving 4 cylinder cars since. Seeing your car makes me want to go out and get something quick again but with 1 kid less than a year from college and the other not far behind, it may be a few years still.



12.0s in street trim is really impressive! Especially with full emissions and a/c!



Great job on the detail too. That nice slick paint should be enough to knock off that last .03 and get you into the 11's!
 
TriPinTaZ said:
I could surely run 11.6-11.7's if I got slicks, but I refuse to run the car like this. MY car is a TRUE STREET CAR, I drive it to the track with the A/C on and race it, then I drive it home and wash it and take it to work the next morning.
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I appreciate the mindset, I really do but what good is having all those ponies and not being able to put them to the asphalt. It's a lot of money not to get the full benefit and all of the fun. Bolt a set of street slicks or better yet some real tires on it and go rock the clock. I've had a pony car that ran low 11's in the thin air of Utah. It too was a "street" car and I prided myself in having a 3600 lb. daily driver turning those times. I put a set of circle track slicks on it to turn those times, I could barely break 12 with a 4 speed and true street tires. Very few 10 second cars that aren't doing it with some kind of slick. Obviously just my opinion. It's a NICE car either way. ;)
 
One of these days I will break down and buy some 15 inch rims and shove a big fat soft wrinkle wall tire in there. probably the new MT Drag Radials, this past weekend at Outlaw drags in Orlando, FL they were running 1.2 and 1.3 60 foot times on these tires and trapping at 7 and 8 seconds over 200 MPH !
 
Scottwax said:
12.0s in street trim is really impressive! Especially with full emissions and a/c!



Great job on the detail too. That nice slick paint should be enough to knock off that last .03 and get you into the 11's!
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LOL @ the slickness comment :lol



Oh, and emissions? What emissions? This is FL :D :D
 
tdekany said:
how do you like PB compared to FK1?
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Both products looked really good, I almost cant tell a difference. The ONLY thing I noticed about this current combo is the Natty's Paste wax made my paint seem Wetter and a clearer shine then the FK1 Pink Wax did.



As far as the sealants and polish, After the Fk1 sealant and Polish the car looked Identical to the Vanilla Moose and EX-P combo. Only the topper waxes I chose set them apart. It is my assumption that using FK1 sealant and polish topped with Natty's would look Identical to VM+EX-P+ Natty's.



I will say one thing, the FK1 Pink wax is the most durable wax I have ever used. It had been on the car for 2 months and water still beaded up like the 1st day I put it on. And if I ever wanted that fresh waxed look after each wash I would use the FK1 pink QD spray and the car would glow. The only advantage I give to PB over FK1 is that Natty's is a much clearer deeper wet look vs the FK1 Pink wax. But we will see how durable it is compaired to the FK1 stuff.



I have the Pinnacle paste glaz here and I am contemplating my next combination. I keep hearing alot about UPP and KIO......but I love the sheeting action and ease of EX-P, So I may got with VM, EX-P and Paste Glaz next.
 
TriPinTaZ



Two enhance the depth and wetness of Finish Kare Pink Wax



1. Allow it to dry for at least 10-15 minutes before buffing excess off. This allows the wax to cationically (+-) plate to the finish.



2. Apply additional coats. This will create additional depth to the finish and will help conceal spider webbing.



3. Apply one of the Finish Kare polymer glazes such as #1 or #300 prior to the pink wax.



The nice thing about this in addition to the results you will get is the longevity. A lot of products attain the shine and wettness using silicone oil based products which have a very short life span.
 
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