Most Durable Sealant?

wannafbody said:
maybe you've never used #26 which NOTICEABLY darkens paint or Mothers RTC which NOTICEABLY adds warmth and brightness to the finish. Collinite 845 adds a slight silver shimmer from certain angles. Tropicare XP adds noticeable wetness to a dark finish. A lot of sealants are nearly clear which leads to a sterile look and may be harder to discern. :sign
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I must agree with wannafbody. I see this silverish/grayish shimmer too (although not with 845), with certain products (OCW, Sonax Xtreme1 paste, etc.), and AFAIK Accumulator has this talent as well... This grayish hue can turn me down instantly.

And true, some products cause a very noticeable change in the overall appearance.
 
wannafbody said:
Take for example Collinite 845-on my wheels it self cleans better than Duragloss. Collinite also seems rather bulletproof-a 50w50a mixture doesn't eat thru it. Is it the carnauba that protects or another ingredient-I don't know. IMO 845 protects better than a sealant but probably doesn't last quite as long.
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What is a 50w50a mixture?
 
Bence said:
I must agree with wannafbody. I see this silverish/grayish shimmer too (although not with 845), with certain products (OCW, Sonax Xtreme1 paste, etc.), and AFAIK Accumulator has this talent as well... This grayish hue can turn me down instantly.

And true, some products cause a very noticeable change in the overall appearance.
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I really see the silvery shimmer on black paint with Klasse SG...which is probably why KSG looks so good on silver!
 
Scottwax said:
I really see the silvery shimmer on black paint with Klasse SG...which is probably why KSG looks so good on silver!
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Yep! I regrouped my products as well for silver and gray use... This silver ghost is most noticeable on very dark paints. EGP has a golden hue (or just shows the golden flakes better... who knows?), similar to this silver shimmer, but even more difficult to see.
 
also there is the squeek test to determine wether a wax or sealant is on the surface. Many manufacturers *claim* that beading is not the definitive means of dertermining the presence of a wax or sealant. Again if you like beading then Zaino or Klasse are probably the best products for you to use.
 
wannafbody said:
I'm going to disagree-water beading has no bearing wether a product is actually bonded to the paint surface and is protecting said surface. IMO you can tell by the depth and gloss wether a product is still on the paint surface. I've used products that were no longer beading that still were bonded to the paint. When I wiped the surface with Tarminator I immediatly could tell that the depth and gloss was reduced and the sealant had been removed. And that was on a white vehicle.
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I'm with Luster on this one. Water beading shows two things:

1) the cohesive forces demonstrated by the water molecules are stronger than the adhesive forces of the surrounding environment. Simply put, the water molecules are attracted to each other more strongly than to the surface.

2) something on the paint is repelling the water molecules.



If either of the above is missing, the beads will not be tight and uniform. If there is dirt/dust on the surface, the beading will be greatly reduced, due to the large amount of adhesive forces displayed by the dirt/dust particles. If there is no wax or other water-repelling coating on the surface, then the beads will not be small and tight because the water molecules can stick to the surface and spread out.



Does a freshly-painted surface with no wax bead water well? Yes. Because there is no dirt/dust/contamination in the paint to add adhesive forces to the situation. Does freshly waxed paint bead well when it's covered in dirt. Hell no...the immense adhesive forces will prevent any beads from forming. The dirt particles just pull those beads apart into flat puddles.





We all agree that it's all in the prep. So you're saying that you can honestly "tell by the depth and gloss wether a product is still on the paint surface"?

I think the depth and gloss was reduced after using Tarminator because there was some residue left on the paint from it.
 
If the depth and gloss is eliminated by a stripper tells me the paint is in need of some polishing. Better know as Prep. If the finish is in excellent condition it should not need an LSP for appearance, but to protect that elite appearance produced by Prep one needs to apply some sort of LSP.

If the LSP adds some beauty, all the better.
 
Scottwax said:
I've had no problems with carnaubas beading all summer in the Dallas area but we don't get acid rain either.
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Acid rain is everywhere. There is no such thing as pH7 rain. All rain reacts with carbon dioxide in the atmosphere to form carbonic acid. It's just a matter of how severe the acid rain in your area is.

It's always going to be worse near heavy industry, due to the various gases that are emitted from the factories. Any gas with sulfur in it can add sulfuric acid to the rain. Nitrogen gas (the most abundant gas in the atmosphere) adds nitric acid to the rain.
 
White-the only problem with your reasoning is that many products produce different beading patterns. #26 produces large beads while 845 produces small tight beads. Does a recent application of #26 that provides large beads mean that the wax has diminished? SURELY NOT. And what about products that tend to sheet? Again many variables exist. And many good products will provide depth, additional gloss or reflectivity to an already polished surface. I'm reminded of a "test" I read that insinuated that P21s was more durable than Glare based on water beading. While I won't make the claim that Glare is the best or longest lasting(Alex Ruiz claims 6- 7 months) I'm certainly not gullible enough to believe that P21s will outlast it.
 
Sheeting products would repel water more, and the water is being repelled so much that it can't even form a bead before running off. The less it can stick, the smaller the bead must be.
 
I've not used a ton of products but Tropicare TC3 is not an extremely good beading product-after a wash the water will cling and then slowly disapate allowing the surface to be wiped easily(although it does rain bead). the new TC XP seems to be a better beading product. But IMO TC-3 doesn't leave the microbeads that 845 can leave after wiping with a WW. EXP and Megs #21 are claimed to good sheeting products as well.
 
wannafbody said:
Personally I like sheeting products as they tend to be able to be dried easier and waterspot less :grinno:
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Well that proves my point doesn't it? :)

The majority of the water is forced to run off the paint, and thus leave less water to be dried off. And less water to cause spotting.
 
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