i recently detailed a corvette c5 and i used powergloss as my compound applied via LC wool pad and Flex DA. it left a lot of haze and did not finish out as nice as it usually does. is this because of the finicky corvette paint or did i do something incorrectly? i do believe i worked the compound enough though...
Menzerna Power Gloss ????
- Thread starter rbruditt
- Start date
Polished&Waxed
New member
was your wool wet at all? misting will dilute the lube and add to the cut.
bigjizzles
New member
it is common to have hazy paint after a compound.
Step down the polishing step to SIP or Power Finish with an orange or green pad, then 85rd with a white pad
Step down the polishing step to SIP or Power Finish with an orange or green pad, then 85rd with a white pad
AeroCleanse
New member
rbruditt said:
What did you use after the compound?
Envious Eric
New member
if you tried to finish with PG, then thats your problem...its a heavy compound, and you must follow up with a heavy polish/light compound like SIP or IP, then follow that up with FPII or 106 - to do things right that is....
SuperBee364
New member
rbruditt said:
For using wool with a DA, yeah, 105 will finish out much better than PG. IME, PG doesn't play well with a DA, regardless of what pad you use. It has always left nasty compounding haze for me, some of which was darn hard to remove.
PFW with M105 on a Flex DA should be a great combo for hard vette clear.
Accumulator
Well-known member
IME M105 leaves a haze too, but it's something that's only visible under very specific inspection/lighting conditions. On hard clear, removing this haze can be more of a challenge than one might expect.
Darkstar752
New member
I used it with PFW on an 09 Mercedes yesterday. Cut very nicely and finished down very well, but still had to follow it up with Ultrafina.
BTW, it seems to do better on some clears than others.
BTW, it seems to do better on some clears than others.
AeroCleanse
New member
rbruditt said:
I never worry about the haze left by a compound. M105 has more cut than PG. M105 also powders a lot faster (well M105 v1.0).
JohnKleven
New member
rbruditt said:
This is normal for Powergloss. I don't think you could have picked a better first step though, especially on a Corvette. Corvette's take a lot of time to polish, as the composite does not heat up like a metal bodied car does. To really get a perfect polish on a Corvette, I always start with powergloss.
John
JohnKleven said:
thanks man i was thinking that i chose correctly but i have never had the compound act up like that on me. then again that is the first corvette i have detailed. tomorrow i will be detailing a black 350Z and will probably start out with powergloss on a yellow Cobra smartpad, followed by SIP via an orange pad, then finished off with superfinish via a black pad. does this sound like a good combo? i feel that it will be...
bigjizzles
New member
Whoa, you dont always have to start off with the compound. Like you did with that Vette. Are both the vette and Z in bad condition?
Inspect the paint first. Then decide what polish to start off with.
Is the paint HEAVILY swirled and oxidized?
Sip with an orange pad could take away lots of impertfections already.
Inspect the paint first. Then decide what polish to start off with.
Is the paint HEAVILY swirled and oxidized?
Sip with an orange pad could take away lots of impertfections already.
Envious Eric
New member
bigjizzles said:
yeah, but why waste your time overworking or even hitting the panel twice with SIP to remove the defects??? once with M105 which will go a lot faster, then SIP and the finish will look better and correct faster
the thing with "the least abrasive method first" is a generalized statement IMO.
A scratch/swirl is as deep as it is deep...why take 5 min to correct it little by little when there are methods to correct in 1 min??? You have to get to the bottom of it anyway, so you are removing the same amount of clear (if that is your worry), just faster with a more heavy compound...
bigjizzles
New member
You guys are right also, but I am just saying that it is more important to inspect the paint then decide what combo you want to do next.
It all depends on the condition of the paint, and the rest is up to you as a detailer. I'm not saying to use the least abrasive method. I'm saying to use a polish/compound that will clean it up, not overdo or under do it.
For example, there could be a light swirl that could be taken out with Power Finish easily, and I can go straight to LSP right after.
But for that same swirls, imagine if you used a compound and take multiple steps after to get to LSP ready. I would use more product and it would be more time consuming.
I'm saying to use the right product for the right correction, it saves time and money.
I mean if we are removing clear anyways, why not just start with sandpaper all the time? We could, but I dont like the idea of extra steps afterwards.
It all depends on the condition of the paint, and the rest is up to you as a detailer. I'm not saying to use the least abrasive method. I'm saying to use a polish/compound that will clean it up, not overdo or under do it.
For example, there could be a light swirl that could be taken out with Power Finish easily, and I can go straight to LSP right after.
But for that same swirls, imagine if you used a compound and take multiple steps after to get to LSP ready. I would use more product and it would be more time consuming.
I'm saying to use the right product for the right correction, it saves time and money.
I mean if we are removing clear anyways, why not just start with sandpaper all the time? We could, but I dont like the idea of extra steps afterwards.
Envious Eric
New member
rbruditt said:
and no, I would PG orange, SIP polishing pad, SF on a black pad. I think that orange pad to finishing pad will be too big of a jump on a black nissan paint job
my last toyota black (similar to nissan black) ended up needing 105 orange, sip yellow megs pad, FPII green uber pad, FPII black LC pad to come out close to perfect