meguiars deep crystal coating

J

John0087

New member
Hello All,

Thanks for all your help. I sucessfully cpompleted a simple detail of my car and I am completely satisfied. The car never looked better. I did:

Wash with Meguiars Wash

1) Mother Clay

2) Meguiars #7

3) Meguiars #26. 2 coats 36 hrs apart.

I did not wash inbetween steps as I live in an apartment and did this at a friends house.



I know its a very basic detail, but the results worked for me. Now my question is, I want to improve my skills, so what is the next level? I am almost out of #26, are there any recomendations for a new wax. I do like the Carnuba look. The bottle of #7 is new, so I want to finish it off before I try something else new. Unless needed, I do not plan on Claying the car next time. I have read the basics of detaling on this site and I would like all your opinions? I also do all my buffing by hand as I do not own a PC. The paint of my car is in good condition, the color is a deep Metalic Blue (Orient Blue for the BMW owners) The only mahjor flaw in the paint are some hard water stains that I do not know how to remove, but they are very difficult to see, you need to know where they are of have a trained eye.



Please let me know I should try next to raise the level.



Thanks
 
John,



Congrats on the great experience. I used #26 for years and years. It's still my favorite $10 wax. A great step up is Blitz at $15-18 or P21S at $24 (S100 is the same wax for $15). Both of these waxes are fantastic. I personally like the P21S wax better than Blitz because Blitz seems to be a dust magnet on my cars.



If you really want to knock your socks off, use Klasse All-In-One (AIO) as a base coat (lasting protection) followed by Blitz or P21S.



db
 
I agree with David, Blitz is a HUGE dust magnet!!! :scared I still love her anyways as that is the only negative drawback besides trim staining.
 
If you are looking for more durability, try blitz. If you are looking for an easier carnuba to use with higher gloss (but not as durable) try P21S or Souveran.



If you have your heart set on the carnuba look, and want durability, well, a lot of guys layer a few coats of KLASSE SG on the car (synthetic polymer) and follow up with a carnuba to attain that carnuba look...



If you want an easy one step polymer system (after proper prep), zaino is easy to use and is very durable and many members on here use it. It has a different type of shine than what you are used to though using a carnuba wax. It's a higher optic more reflective shine. A matter of preference more than anything else. To give you an idea, here is a picture of an orient blue 330ci zainoed.....



<img src=http://www.fototime.com/611FA4EB7042EC6/standard.jpg>
 
Step up to a higher qualtiy carnauba and you'll be happy. You can still use #7 as a base coat and a great carnauba for the final coat. I had completely different results with Bltiz than the others regarding dust attraction. I used Blitz over Zaino and actually noticed less dust attraction than with my normal Zaino coats. :nixweiss Don't know how to explain it, but the car stayed cleaner for a longer period of time.



So, you might seriously look into Blitz, P21S, or even Souveran. All are above average carnaubas.



On an even higher level, you might consider a sealant next go around. Many have had stunning results using Klasse with Blitz, P21S, or Souveran as a topper.
 
Thanks for the help. I enjoyed detailing my car so much that I want to do it again already, but I've got my g/f Tacoma to do. Whooo Hooo. Anyways, I think my next attemp will be as follows



Wash

1) Mothers Clay

2) Meguiars #7

3) ?? Selant or glaze. I read about both Klasse AIO and Klasse Sealant Glaze. I know that they are different products with different purposes and should be layered, but I want to make 1 change at a time. Any recomendations as to which to try first. I like the fact that AIO is supposed to remove the oils left behind from the polish, but which will make the most significant improvement?

4) Wax. I will most likely finish the #26 on my g/f truck, so I think I will try P21S



Thanks again
 
If you're going to go the Klasse route then you probably should skip the #7. It's mostly light polish, fillers, and oils. It works great with #26 but I think Klasse will just remove all the product left from the #7, essentially negating all that work.



Klasse can be a challenge to use from what I've read. Spend some time searching the archives for detailed posts on Klasse usage. There are quite a lot of comments on how to use it effectively and get the results you want.



If you want to go polymer sealant, consider Blackfire too. It's very easy to use and has its own unique shine. I top it with Souveran as I too like the carnauba look. It's a fantastic combo.



All this talk should be considered for your next major detail. In the meantime just maintain the car as best you can until you're ready to start this process over. You should get a good 3-4 months before your car looks like it needs it's next detail.
 
If by 'similar' you mean is it a relatively permanent nano-coating? Yes.

Meguiar's is only releasing this in their Asian markets for the time being, I believe. One of the reasons it was not released here is our industrial fallout is nowhere near as bad, and that coating was designed for protection, not looks.
 
aerogt01 said:
If by 'similar' you mean is it a relatively permanent nano-coating? Yes.

Meguiar's is only releasing this in their Asian markets for the time being, I believe. One of the reasons it was not released here is our industrial fallout is nowhere near as bad, and that coating was designed for protection, not looks.
Click to expand...


+1. It seems for the time being (and perhaps permanently) this will be an Asian market only release. As far as similarities to Opti-Coat, I would say they are both similar in their target. However I have no idea how they compare in terms of application, durability, and protection.
 
Hi guys. I'm Chris@Optimum on other detailing forums…I just haven't asked to change my display name here yet. I thought a brief rundown of the coating would help an you can let me know if you have other questions. We will also be offering a consumer version of OptiCoat very soon so stay tuned.

Opti-Coat is not a nano particle, it is rather a pre-polymer that cross links and forms a continuous film on the surfaces it is applied to similar to a single component isocyanate that forms a clear coat finish. Opti-Coat also reacts with the substrate that it is applied to so it will not delaminate. Nano particles are sub micron particles that are created by controlled reactions or by breaking down larger particles. They do not react or form bonds. The application of Opti-Coat takes less than 10 minutes for a full size car, if it is done correctly. It applies just like Opti-Seal, however, if there is over application, you have to remove the excess within the first 10 minutes, just leveling with the applicator. Otherwise, once it cures, you have to buff off the excess (machine polishing). Most people apply this product to one panel at a time and check for any unevenness before moving to the next section. As far as the durability, it is similar to urethane clears. It will not wash away or break down, however, you can polish it over time !

Opti-Coat is based on a resin pre-polymer that we manufacture and once it is applied, it cross links and reacts with urethane and other clear coat paints. Opti-Coat has better chemical resistance, scratch & mar resistance, and release properties than any automotive coating in use. This coating like a regular clear coat lasts indefinitely unless it is removed by polishing, sanding, or paint removers.

The coating will get to a hardness of 9H after it is fully cured.The solvents used in Opti-Coat are also used in hand lotions and other cosmetic products. The polymers, however, are very reactive and should be used with caution and that is one of the reasons we only offer it to professional detailers.


Sent from my ViP4 viaTapatalk
 
i am confused by part of your description but am very interested in the durability-

quote:"that are created by controlled reactions or by breaking down larger particles. They do not react or form bonds"the part that says created by "controlled reactions" and then the "do not react" or form bonds is confusing, @-):doh:certainly am not a chemist lol just a detailer looking for quality durable products to add to the arsenal --i am new at this game so if u can help clear up this part of the description it confuses me a lil or maybe i just am not educated enuff yet in the way stuff like this
works--thinking of joining the group buy of blackfire mdnight sun carnauba:banghead::doh:--and looking for a user friendly sealant---thanks--paul
 
PAD2010 said:
quote:"that are created by controlled reactions or by breaking down larger particles. They do not react or form bonds"the part that says created by "controlled reactions" and then the "do not react" or form bonds is confusing, @-):doh:certainly am not a chemist lol just a detailer looking for quality durable products to add to the arsenal --i am new at this game so if u can help clear up this part of the description it confuses me a lil or maybe i just am not educated enuff yet in the way stuff like this
works--thinking of joining the group buy of blackfire mdnight sun carnauba:banghead::doh:--and looking for a user friendly sealant---thanks--paul
Click to expand...

A) You should join the Midnight Sun group buy

B) The first part of the sentence explains how something is created (created by reactions) and the second part says that once created, it is no longer active and cannot "react".
 
PAD2010 said:
quote:"that are created by controlled reactions or by breaking down larger particles. They do not react or form bonds"the part that says created by "controlled reactions" and then the "do not react" or form bonds is confusing, @-):doh:certainly am not a chemist lol just a detailer looking for quality durable products to add to the arsenal --i am new at this game so if u can help clear up this part of the description it confuses me a lil or maybe i just am not educated enuff yet in the way stuff like this
works--thinking of joining the group buy of blackfire mdnight sun carnauba:banghead::doh:--and looking for a user friendly sealant---thanks--paul
Click to expand...

OptiCoat forms a permanent bond (like another layer of clear would). Sealants (even nano sealants) adhere to the surface instead of becoming a part of it.


Sent from my ViP4 viaTapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top