Meg's D151

Well, I definitely understand the part of priming the pad thoroughly. You have to grasp the concept of these non diminishing abraisive products acting like a piece of sandpaper.
 
Greg Nichols said:
I have spent a bit of time using this product and don't get any quality results to speak of. I guess I'll try again. It is full of stuff that fills either on purpose or by accident, so the results seem to be short lived at best.



Thanks for the write up.



Cheers,
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It's definitely on purpose. This stuff is designed to be worked hard and fast as a quick one-step. Like I mentioned earlier...

That doesn't mean we can't modify application technique to better suit our style of paint correction.



It seems to react well to how I've been using it, anyway.... :buffing:
 
I used D151 with 6.5" LC Green with a Flex 3401. I assumed this combo would be THE combo to use for a 1 step product. It seemed like the D151 didn't have much cut at all and didn't really do much? Perhaps LC orange would be better like suggested above, but I'm not confident in finishing with an orange pad.



Also I bought a quart of this stuff and considering the prices (REALLY CHEAP) it leads me to believe Megs wants you to use more product when polishing than normally needed. For example with 106FF, UFSE, and 85RD a little goes a LONG way...so D151 isn't supposed to be used sparringly?



Lastly I have a question about Kevin's pad priming technique. I've always used water or QD for priming my pads whether wool or foam. I'm a big believer in pad priming, but I've never used my product to prime my pads. I thought one of the biggest benefits of pad priming was to ensure the product wasn't soaked into the pad and transferred to the paint? So using the product to prime the pad is defeating one purpose of priming the pad, no? Is priming your pad with this technique only recommended with D151, or Megs products, or every product? That would be pretty expensive with some of the more expensive products!
 
ABQDetailer said:
I used D151 with 6.5" LC Green with a Flex 3401. I assumed this combo would be THE combo to use for a 1 step product. It seemed like the D151 didn't have much cut at all and didn't really do much? Perhaps LC orange would be better like suggested above, but I'm not confident in finishing with an orange pad.



Also I bought a quart of this stuff and considering the prices (REALLY CHEAP) it leads me to believe Megs wants you to use more product when polishing than normally needed. For example with 106FF, UFSE, and 85RD a little goes a LONG way...so D151 isn't supposed to be used sparringly?



Lastly I have a question about Kevin's pad priming technique. I've always used water or QD for priming my pads whether wool or foam. I'm a big believer in pad priming, but I've never used my product to prime my pads. I thought one of the biggest benefits of pad priming was to ensure the product wasn't soaked into the pad and transferred to the paint? So using the product to prime the pad is defeating one purpose of priming the pad, no? Is priming your pad with this technique only recommended with D151, or Megs products, or every product? That would be pretty expensive with some of the more expensive products!
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Primarily with the non diminishing abraisive Meguiar's products. Water or QDs can cause the non diminishing abraisive particles to clump. You would end up with some large clumps, some medium clumps, and individual particles that don't break down as you polish (since the particles don't diminish). It would be like trying to wetsand with a piece of sandpaper that had mixed grits on it. In theory, Meguiar's should have accounted for the fact these abraisives don't diminish, so the lubricant in the product shouldn't cause clumping.



EDIT - the purpose of priming the entire pad with the non diminishing abraisive product is to maximize the cutting ability, by utilizing EVERY square inch of the pad...again, think of the pad covered in product as a sheet of sandpaper. Sometimes, depending on the size of the car, you will have to use multiple pads if one gets too caked with product.



In Kevin's write-up, I would bet he could have skipped the second step with the yellow MEguiar's pad, and gone straight from the rotary to the smaller pad on the PC and gotten the same results.
 
weekendwarrior said:
...the purpose of priming the entire pad with the non diminishing abraisive product is to maximize the cutting ability, by utilizing EVERY square inch of the pad...again, think of the pad covered in product as a sheet of sandpaper. Sometimes, depending on the size of the car, you will have to use multiple pads if one gets too caked with product....
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Yes.

Liberal pad priming reduces the chance of installing a pad created defect, too.

Since most pads perform differently once the priming permeates the material, you'll encounter consistency of performance with a properly primed pad.



Water merely wets the pad- It doesn't necessarily prime it.



Prime's meaning, as taken from the dictionary built into my computer: Make something ready for use or action, and , in relation to applying paint to a surface, To cover with a preparatory cover of paint in order to prevent or slow the absorption of subsequent application of paint.



Both meanings apply to my use of the word prime.

Of course, we're not applying paint to a surface, but thorough application of PRC to the pad would not allow additional PRC to randomly soak into the pad.



I understand your reasoning in relation to saturating the pad with product, ABQDetailer. To remedy build-up of product and saturation of the pad, you should frequently clean it. A very simple way to do remove excess liquid is to attach the pad to a random-orbital, and push the pad's face against a microfiber towel (set the towel on a flat surface, like a table), Run the machine for 5-10 seconds, or until most of the moisture is removed. This process will remove a majority of the saturation.



weekendwarrior said:
In Kevin's write-up, I would bet he could have skipped the second step with the yellow Meguiar's pad, and gone straight from the rotary to the smaller pad on the PC and gotten the same results.
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Right-o... But I just had to rip open that new package!
 
Well doggies, interesting reading. My personal experiences with LC orange pads have afforded me LSP ready finishes - and that was from Menzerna FFII and back in the day - XMT#3, all via a PC. I learned that the "Pad conditioners" or water added to a pad didn't help and in some cases - hurt, with splatering polish all over. After seeing how much 151 Keven used, I felt like, hey - there's a guy that uses 151 like I do, and he's a lot smarter, so heck, I must be on the right track.



Honestly - I never got the hang of 105, but 151 - fits me and my way of polishing like a glove.
 
Who knew a super model knew so much about polishing - :think:



Cave-T-front-LG.jpg




This one is my favorite-



Worlds-Fastest-T-front-LG.jpg




Beebe Mulligan
 
Here's my latest experience with 151, and why I'm not all that happy with it...



I was doing a black Acura last week. After doing a test section on the trunk, I determined that M105 with PFW, and UF X2 with red foam would give me excellent correction and a flawless finish. Do to an unexpected time constraint, I decided to follow the 105 with 151 on a red pad, and call it done. I didn't have enough time to do UF X2, then an LSP.



After doing the entire car with 105 and PFW, I was left with a very lightly hologramed finish. That's to be expected on such soft paint. However, after doing the entire car with M151 on a red pad, using it pretty much as described by iamwaxman, the car looked far worse that it did after the 105. I was shocked, and needless to say, not very happy. I wish I would have had more time to experiment with the 151 on that particular paint. I just can't imagine how I could have finished it down any finer than I did. That guy will be returning for a free full exterior detail.



Edit: The red foam pad is Edge's wave foam. Zero bite.
 
SuperBee364 said:
Here's my latest experience with 151, and why I'm not all that happy with it...



I was doing a black Acura last week. After doing a test section on the trunk, I determined that M105 with PFW, and UF X2 with red foam would give me excellent correction and a flawless finish. Do to an unexpected time constraint, I decided to follow the 105 with 151 on a red pad, and call it done. I didn't have enough time to do UF X2, then an LSP.



After doing the entire car with 105 and PFW, I was left with a very lightly hologramed finish. That's to be expected on such soft paint. However, after doing the entire car with M151 on a red pad, using it pretty much as described by iamwaxman, the car looked far worse that it did after the 105. I was shocked, and needless to say, not very happy. I wish I would have had more time to experiment with the 151 on that particular paint. I just can't imagine how I could have finished it down any finer than I did. That guy will be returning for a free full exterior detail.
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I'm not familiar with (I'm assuming) Meguiar's red pads....Are they a cutting or finishing pad?



I've found that the only way 151 has any serious cut is with an Orange pad...and it can be finished down well. 151 on a White pad has minimal cut but leaves a nice finish behind.
 
D151 works decently well for me via PC, not so much via rotary. It does leave holograms on softer paints which defeats the purpose of using at a one step. However, with a PC/UDM, I get pretty decent results. :nixweiss
 
I just used this for the first time on my 07 black pathfinder. I love it, not sure why so many are having issues with D151. I think people are overthinking how to use it.



I slapped on a 4 inch polish pad with my pc and went to town. It was easy to use and cleared up some light marring and a few light scratches. I used a 50/50 wipedown and everything checked out.



I'm impressed by the ease of use, cleaning ability and gloss/slickness. This is my favorite AIO now.
 
artikxscout said:
any update on this vs poly seal?
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#151 definitely has more cut, but on soft paint is also leaves more buffer haze on the A pillars. On harder paints, it works great. Has a somewhat brighter look than Poli-Seal, more sealant looking.



I go with #151 on harder paints and OPS on softer paints for the most part. Definitely a place for both.
 
Jason M said:
Are you getting hazing even with a finishing pad on soft paints Scott?
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Yes, on soft black paint via DA. #151 will also hologram on softer paints when used via rotary and a polishing pad. Haven't tried it with a finishing pad via rotary yet.
 
Scottwax said:
Yes, on soft black paint via DA. #151 will also hologram on softer paints when used via rotary and a polishing pad. Haven't tried it with a finishing pad via rotary yet.
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Scott,



I completely agree... I just did an '03 or so BMW M3 that had (believe it or not) VERY soft paint. 151 on a finishing pad left a good amount of haze in the paint. Definitely not the best 1-Step for softer paints.
 
I see. I have not worked on anything super soft with 151 yet. I have noticed that it is very pad dependant though. Just like all the Meg's polishes with the new abrasives. I guess that's a good reason to keep M66 around.
 
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