M105 issues

R

Redem

New member
Hi,



I Have a few worries about m105 and my car. My car is about 3 years old and has seen nothing but zaino and m205 on a white pad. I gave moderate swirls which I believe m205 will not take care of.



I am unsure if I should skip to m105 as I do have some repainted panels. The repainted bumper is decent I guess but I knowit was more or less a rush job. Should I be worried about using m105 on these areas? Is m105 my next step when 205 fails? Thanks
 
205 is not aggressive at all. Depending on your medium, M105 is plenty safe. Done many cars with repainted panels an 105 on as aggressive as a yellow pad and a PC. Not nearly aggressive enough to be an issue.
 
Before you skip to 105, make sure the 205 won't take care of it. Try stepping up to 205 on an orange pad first, if that doesn't work, step up to a yellow pad. If the 205/orange or yellow works but leaves any haziness, follow up with 205/white. If 205/yellow does not work, then go to 105/white, stepping up the pads as needed. Then follow up with 205 as the 105 will prob leave a little haziness.



Be ready for the 105 to dry alot faster than the 205, which a spritz of water will help with. Or load the pad with the 105 to keep it from drying up to quickly.



Don't worry about using the 105 on repainted areas. Ideally 105 should be the next step only if 205 with a more aggressive pad does not work.
 
Redem- If you want to remove the marring it's gonna take a certain amount of abrasion to do it. Maybe that's one pass with M105, maybe it's more than that. But if you can do it with *less* abrasion that that single pass with M105, then yeah, that'd be better.



Maybe you oughta try OHC. I find it *MUCH* more user-friendly than M105 anyhow, and it's a fair bit milder. A few passes with OHC will generally do the same as one with M105, so if you don't mind spending more time at it you oughta eventually end up with about the same degree of correction when it's all over and done with. And you'd get there incrementally, with less chance of taking off more clear than you need to.
 
I think I can afford the clear coat, but unsure on the repainted panels.

Optimum heavy compound? Are yellow pads more abrasive than orange?
 
Redem said:
I think I can afford the clear coat, but unsure on the repainted panels.

Optimum heavy compound? Are yellow pads more abrasive than orange?
Click to expand...



The LC yellow pads are the heavy cut while the orange is a medium cut. I'm not sure which brand pad you are using, so be sure to check that company's pad specs if it's not LC.
 
Redem,



The other option you have is: knowing that M105 and M205 are non-diminishing abrasives, and that you can vary their relative cut by a change in pressure or application(pad, machine etc) you could always try M105 on a polishing pad or even a finishing pad after you have exhausted your efforts with M205.



There are many times I will use M105 on a polishing pad and follow up with something else as a finisher. The finish left by the polishing pad and the 105 is literally JUST like a medium polish. The other thing you can do in a situation like this(m105 variables) is a change in pressure - the more downward pressure you use, regardless of the pad, the great increase in mechanical action(cutting or polishing) these non diminishing abrasives will perform.



This way you do not need to worry about picking up another product, only maximizing the potential for each pad and product you already have.
 
Thanks, I have some lc yellow pads on the way. Hopefully everything works out well.



Thanks for the help and tips
 
Just an update - Started on the car today and only plan on doing a few panels at a time due to time but I ended up not using the m105 at all. I figured that since I am happy with the results of 205 alone for a daily driven car I would save the time, trouble, and clear coat and not step up to m105.



M205 on a yellow pad with 1-2 passes depending on spot fixed close to 90% of the defects and made the paint really come alive. Instead of going to m105 on a white pad I figured I would stick to this combo as its a simple one step polish. I'd rather stay away from having to use m205 after m105 and keep is simple. My inspections are in direct sunlight and that is the only thing I have to check for defects. M205 on a white pad did not rid any of the left over swirls from m205 on a yellow pad so it seems to be finishing just as well on yellow as far as I can tell.



I've never been one to worry about every last flaw and I am happy with the 205 results. As a DD good enough is good enough in my eyes as I can promise you ill be fixing something else in 3 months due to some idiot and his shopping cart.
 
Redem- Glad things are working out OK with the M205, and yeah, that sounds like a sensible approach. Not like every vehicle has to be all "Autopian" :xyxthumbs
 
Accumulator said:
Redem- Glad things are working out OK with the M205, and yeah, that sounds like a sensible approach. Not like every vehicle has to be all "Autopian" :xyxthumbs
Click to expand...



Agreed. If you can get your car to look pretty much swirl and scratch free from 5 feet away, your car already looks better than 95% of the other cars on the road. Not to mention it is easie to keep at that level.
 
205 with a lc hydro tangerine pad then a grey finnesse pad last couple of passes let up on the pressure to jewel the paint.



glad your system is working.
 
I am seeing too many swirls. Maybe I did not wipe down the 205 enough? Anyways, I cant do all this work and be left with swirl marks like this! I guess ill be going to m105 on a white pad which i believe will take care of it. Will 205 on grey pad be enough to remove the hazing from 105?



I dont think m105 is all that much more agressive on white pad than my previous yellow/205 combo and it will hopefully do it in one pass.
 
Did not use m105 becuase I was suggested that the left over light swirls were probably micro marring. Made sense to me so I tried white and black LLC pads on the pc with 2m05 and I dont seem to be making them any better. They are pretty hard to see and you can only see them in some lighting. I am sick of boxing my car weaving back and forth looking for swirls. I honestly can not tell if the m205 on white/grey pad helped at all because they are hard to find/see.





I do know they are still there. If my yellow/m205 were able to take out my more visable(deeper?) swirls, why cant i remove these near invisible(light?) swirls? At this point ill finish the rest of the car with 205/yellow and stepping down to 205/grey and live to fight another day. I dont feel comfortable polishing the same panel over and over even if I am only using a fine polish and a PC.



Anybody shed any light on why these *micro* swirls are impossible for me to remove? Could these hard to see swirls realy be much deeper than I believe? If a scratch is hard to see does that mean its a light scratch that isnt too deep?
 
The microswirls potentially might be deeper swirls than the rest of them that were eliminated easily initially with your other efforts.



If they are short, choppy "half-moon" shapes, that would probably be micromarring.
 
I cant really see them to tell if they are swirls or micro marring...



So even though they are much lighter and very hard to see they could still be deeper than a more visable swirl?





Thanks for all the help
 
Redem- some sorta-random thoughts follow, maybe something will be helpful:



-I don't like those LC yellow foam cutting pads, too much residual marring and maybe that *is* the problem

-Orange/M105 might take a few passes, but it doesn't leave much micromarring behind and it'll do the work if you stick with it long enough

-Following the orange/M105 with a milder pad/M105 oughta leave things so nice that you'll only see micromarring under specialized lighting conditions; most people won't even see it period

-Make sure you're keeping the M105 pad *VERY* clean; I spend about as much time cleaning the pad as I do polishing

-Use something like M34 when buffing off the M105 to reduce the chance of it causig issues during the buff-off (remember that since M105/M205 don't break down they're always consistently abrasive)

-I think you need to sort out your inspection lighting a bit better so you can truly evaluate what the issue really is (I know, I know, but that's another thing that I can spend as much time on as the actual polishing)

-I wouldn't switch to the finishing pad/M205 combo until things look perfect; that combo will basically just bring up the gloss a little bit; you might need a more aggressive pad for the initial M205 work (I kinda like the Griot's orange pad, similar to the LC tangerine)
 
Accumulator said:
-I don't like those LC yellow foam cutting pads, too much residual marring and maybe that *is* the problem
Click to expand...



Before 105 came out, I had a few cases of LC yellow pads leaving marring when used with a DA that could only be removed with a rotary, wool. and a heavy compound.



Here's something you may want to try...



1. Grab a zero bite pad (I like to use the softest finishing pads I have). Do one application of 105, finishing the application with no more pressure than the weight of the buffer.



2. Remove the residue. Follow up with an IPA wipedown.



3. Thoroughly inspect the finish. What you are now looking at is how well 105 is capable of finishing down on your particular paint. Since you used a zero bite pad, the finish isn't skewed by any cutting power the pad itself has; you won't need to worry about trying to differentiate between pad induced marring and defects that survived the 105, 'cause there won't *be* any pad induced marring. Whatever defects remain in the paint are either: defects that still need to be corrected, or compounding haze/swirls left by the 105. With enough practice, it gets easier to tell the difference between the two. Even if the result you are now looking at still looks a bit messy, proceed to the next step.



4. Using a fresh zero bite pad, do an application of 205 over the same area you just did with 105. Again, the result you're looking at is how well the polish itself will finish out on your paint, not influenced by any pad cutting action. Chances are pretty good that you'll be looking at a nicely corrected finish with very good gloss.



5. Remove residue. Do another IPA wipe down.



If you are not completely satisfied with the outcome,you may want to consider doing another application of 205, again using a zero bite pad.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top