LSP Winter Faceoff

PFF – 2 layers of FK-1000p applied 4 months ago

This panel was more contaminated that the opposite panel and the beading wasn’t as strong (sheeting was still good). The FK1000P may have been affected by the harsh soaps used at the touchless wash and or the road salt. I must say I’m surprised and in a way disappointed, heavy contamination will defiantly require a claying and reapplication of LSP on this panel. [End of test for this panel]

Pre-wash post rinse, full panel:


Pre-wash post rinse, close up:


Post-wash, final rinse, full panel:


Post-wash, final rinse, close up:




 
PRD – 2 layers of FK-1000p applied 4 months ago

This panel was very comparable to the opposite panel in terms of contamination. The beading is weakening but the sheeting is still very good. I wouldn’t say the LSP is worn out but this panel will need to be decontaminated bringing an end to the durability test for this panel. Note: I was confused in the video and mistook this for the Klasse panel. [End of test for this panel]

Pre-wash post rinse, full panel:


Pre-wash post rinse, close up:



Post-wash, final rinse, full panel:


Post-wash, final rinse, close up:


 
PRF – 2 layers of Collinite 476s applied 4 months ago

The trend continues with Collinite, tight water beading and ok water sheeting. This panel has the 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] best beading out of all the LSP’s on the car and the best non-coating LSP in terms of beading and tied with Klasse (KAIO&KSG) in terms of bonded surface contaminants. This panel could get by without a decontamination (for your average joe) but considering I works so hard to compound out the orange peel I will defiantly decontaminate this panel. [End of test for this panel]

Pre-wash post rinse, full panel:


Pre-wash post rinse, close up:




Post-wash, final rinse, full panel:


Post-wash, final rinse, close up:


 
Roof – 1 layer of Collinite 845 applied 11 months ago

The 845 on this panel is starting to weaken but surprisingly not on the glass. I will be correcting the paint on this panel this summer and applying a coating that should last many years. I must say that 845 is truly an outstanding product and far exceeded my expectations. It’s served it’s propose (hassle free protection) and will continue to have a place on my LSP self and heart.

Pre-wash post rinse, full panel:


Post-wash, final rinse, full panel:
 
Hood – 1 layer of WG Uber applied 5 months ago

Well I’ve been a sceptic towards coatings (in general) all a long but the results on this panel clearly speak for them self’s especially when you compare them to the other LSP results. This panel basically has zero bonded contaminates (you’ll notice some rock chips in the video that look like tar because the aluminum has oxidized – “I think”). This panel still looks as good as the day I polished and coated it. All of the other panels look dull in comparison. Don’t get me wrong, the other panels are still shiny but the reflections are dull / muted compared to this WG Uber coated panel. The beading and sheeting is still a mixed bag for me (some areas perform better than others). I can only assume this is due to my very thin application or road film (or whatever you want to call it) adhered to the coating. I believe it’s the latter because I’ve done a CarPro Eraser wipe down on the coating and it restored the beading and sheeting like new, but people have PM’ed me saying I should have applied two layers to ensure full / even coverage, and I agree (I will next time).

Wolfgang Uber Ceramic Coating is clearly the winner even though it wasn’t supposed to be part of the LSP Faceoff because it was applied at a different time with a different prep and lets face it, it’s a coating. Regardless, I’m happy I decided to include it into the Faceoff and it’s more than proved that coatings do have a place on my Jeep SRT8.

Pre-wash post rinse, full panel:


Pre-wash post rinse, close up:


Post-wash, final rinse, full panel:


Post-wash, final rinse, close up:



 
If anyone is wondering how it got so contaminated, it’s because I raced my Jeep SRT8 on a track with 40-60 other cars in the snow (winter drifting) and it got covered with hot contaminates mixed in the snow that were blasted all over the paint during the drifts/slides. I didn’t think about it at the time but in hindsight, I defiantly picked up lots of contaminants from those events considering there were so many other modified cars (most were non-street legal). I don’t think it wouldn’t be as bad if the snow didn’t act as a medium to carry the contaminants onto the paint (hot break dust in kicked up snow must melt down to the LSP in bond to the surface easily – logical assumption). The tar comes from the new pothole trucks the city now uses year-round to repair the endless potholes. It basically sprays high-tar-content asphalt into the hole until slightly over filled and pats it down. The next car to drive over kicks up %5 of the high-tar-asphalt causing tar to get slung around. I happen to live in a particularly bad part with old cobblestone roads that have covered in asphalt by corrupt construction contractors (recently an overpass fell and killed people because they skimped too much on re-bar) so as you can image the potholes form very frequently…

What am I going to do next?
I plan to fully decontaminate using Iron-X, Tarminator, medium grade clay alternative, and a medium grade clay bar, and then re-polish using the Boss G21 an LC HD Orange polish pad with Menz SF4000, and then coat the whole thing with Wolfgang Uber Ceramic Coating twice (after the paint is cleaned of polishing oils of course)!


If there’s interest I can make a video (and take pictures) of how these LSP perform post-decontamination, if there’s anything left. I see some people ask if decontaminating will strip their LSP so I figure it might be worth documenting as a final testament to the products.

Thanks for reading, subscribing, commenting, and PMing!

And finally thank you to Autopia for the great open forums that led to this fantastic community of detailers. Also big thanks to PBMC for selecting me in the WG Uber giveaway!

FTI: This final update starts on post #77 at page 2.
 
Thanks for taking the time to do this test and pass along the results. I'm sure you will be very happy with your car completely coated with WG Uber.
 
I really appreciate you performing this comparison... I've been following along since the beginning, and the info sold me on FK1000p.

Great work!
 
Thanks for carrying the test to the end. I use Collinite exclusively and has survived 115-120 temps the occasional rains and monsoon storms with blowing dirt, sand and torrential down pours. Coatings are good for some but not me, I will stay with the Collinite.

Dave
 
jrock645 said:
Impressive that the Collinite products outdid FK1000, as many reports say the opposite.
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Honestly, it's a really close call. The beading looks better on the Collinite 476s than the FK1000P but not the sheeting. Collinite also has less bonded contaminants but still has plenty.

I still like FK1000P more because it looks better on my color paint but on another color I'd try 476s.
 
nickclark08 said:
I really appreciate you performing this comparison... I've been following along since the beginning, and the info sold me on FK1000p.

Great work!
Click to expand...

Honestly, you can't go wrong with any of these products, but I will say FK1000P looked the best after application but maybe that's just my bias (FK1000p is what'd I'd apply if I enter a car show).
 
Interesting how experiencess can differ. The Collinite vs. FK1000P comparison must somehow boil down to individual circumstances where different users will get different results (same with the KSG, though I'd always use more than 2-3 layers).

That said, I am surprised by Collinite lasting longer as it simply *never* worked that way IME, let alone with 845 (which I found far less durable than 476S).
 
Accumulator said:
Interesting how experiencess can differ. The Collinite vs. FK1000P comparison must somehow boil down to individual circumstances where different users will get different results (same with the KSG, though I'd always use more than 2-3 layers).

That said, I am surprised by Collinite lasting longer as it simply *never* worked that way IME, let alone with 845 (which I found far less durable than 476S).
Click to expand...

As for the 845 is on the roof has very low exposure to salt, road grime, etc. so it hardly counts when compared to the other high exposure panels. It was more of a personal interest to see how rarely I could get away with applying LSP on the roof.

I will admit I had a little Accumulator bird on my shoulder as I wrote, and it was tricky to put the results into words (especially a week after I took the pictures and videos). To explain the results I think it's important to take into account that I neglected the paint much more than most (I hope all) Autopians ever would (especially yourself, Accumulator). I think if I had maintained the finish better the results may have been different. I also noticed the touchless machine washes affected all of the LSP's (save for the coating) to some degree and caused the panels to become "hazy" (if you will), some more so than others (I didn't really account for this).

None the less I learned a lot doing this test even if the results might be skewed by my method. I'm now able to improve my product testing for next time (take more variables into account, prior to starting, so I can plan accordingly).
 
4u2nvinmtl- Yeah, that's a good point about how the roof can be low-exposure for some folks (and, I'm sure, *high*-exposure for others). I hardly ever have to redo the roof of the Tahoe, not annually by any means.

I dunno if you really neglect it worse than I do the Tahoe though...that'd be saying something! Though mine's garaged and I bet that makes a big difference, along with your use of the Touchless.
 
4u2nvinmtl said:
As for the 845 is on the roof has very low exposure to salt, road grime, etc. so it hardly counts when compared to the other high exposure panels. It was more of a personal interest to see how rarely I could get away with applying LSP on the roof.

I will admit I had a little Accumulator bird on my shoulder as I wrote, and it was tricky to put the results into words (especially a week after I took the pictures and videos). To explain the results I think it's important to take into account that I neglected the paint much more than most (I hope all) Autopians ever would (especially yourself, Accumulator). I think if I had maintained the finish better the results may have been different. I also noticed the touchless machine washes affected all of the LSP's (save for the coating) to some degree and caused the panels to become "hazy" (if you will), some more so than others (I didn't really account for this).

None the less I learned a lot doing this test even if the results might be skewed by my method. I'm now able to improve my product testing for next time (take more variables into account, prior to starting, so I can plan accordingly).
Click to expand...
This has been great to follow and thanks for the updates!

One thing I notice with the sealants I use is that in the winter time the hood and roof seem to last the longest. This is basing my findings on beads that it. I know that may not be a true indication but visually it's the best we have. Like you said the roof has the least exposure. My side panels get hammered by salt and grime and lose beading the quickest.

Now in the summer time I have the exact opposite findings. The hood and roof go first. Probably from the sun beating down. The sides last the longest in summer.

So many variables.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
Accumulator said:
4u2nvinmtl- Yeah, that's a good point about how the roof can be low-exposure for some folks (and, I'm sure, *high*-exposure for others). I hardly ever have to redo the roof of the Tahoe, not annually by any means.

I dunno if you really neglect it worse than I do the Tahoe though...that'd be saying something! Though mine's garaged and I bet that makes a big difference, along with your use of the Touchless.
Click to expand...

This is one battle I'll gladly concede to. Your Tahoe is dirtier than my SRT8 ;)
 
Quick Update:

It was snowing this morning but by the time I returned home from work it had turned to rain, anyways I got some great natural beading shots (7 days after I last washed/detailed it).

DFF – KAIO topped with 2 layers of KSG <- Applied ~4.5 months ago



DRD – 2 layers of KSG <- Applied ~4.5 months ago



DRF – 2 layers of DG601 & DG105 at a 1:4 Ratio <- Applied ~4.5 months ago



PFF – 2 layers of FK-1000p <- Applied ~4.5 months ago




PRD – 2 layers of FK-1000p <-Applied ~4.5 months ago



PRF – 2 layers of Collinite 476s <- Applied ~4.5 months ago



Hood – 1 layer of WG Uber <- Applied ~5.5 months ago



Roof – 1 layer of Collinite 845 <- Applied ~1 year ago





845 came back from the dead, lol...

Note: I havent touched the paint since I last washed (no topers, no detailing sprays, nada).
 
Just curious if you have any thickness readings after you compounded the orange peel away. I have some I would love to get rid of but not at the risk of clear coat failure. Great test btw, appreciate you turning your vehicle into a real world test subject lol.
 
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