LSP Winter Faceoff

Awesome report!

Picked up a new can of the older non VOC formula Collonite 476s from a member. Doing a little testing with Carpro Essence topped with the 476s.

Going to be interesting.
 
What would be the point in using both the Uber coating and FK1000P? Or the DG combo topped with it?

I do top various things with FK1000P, but I don't top anything durable as I'm pretty much a "just rely on one LSP for durability" type of guy.
 
Accumulator said:
What would be the point in using both the Uber coating and FK1000P? Or the DG combo topped with it?

I do top various things with FK1000P, but I don't top anything durable as I'm pretty much a "just rely on one LSP for durability" type of guy.
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I can't speak for topping the Uber coating with FK1000P as I haven't used it. As for the DG topped with Collinite, I find it gives greater depth/gloss to my black paint and I like the added protection.

I guess to each there own.
 
Accumulator said:
What would be the point in using both the Uber coating and FK1000P? Or the DG combo topped with it?

I do top various things with FK1000P, but I don't top anything durable as I'm pretty much a "just rely on one LSP for durability" type of guy.
Click to expand...

Well, because they each have different properties. Take my hood, for example, the FK1000P kept wearing off in a few places where has the coating doesn't wear out at all (yet), but the Uber coating doesn't stay clean as well as FK1000P (or 476s) does. So to get the best of both worlds I'd just top the Uber coated hood with FK1000P (assuming that they're compatible).

I've never layered different products overtop of one another but I would definitely try layering something over the Uber coating (for the above and following reasons). I am not a fan of the feeling of the coating (not buttery smooth like wax) but others say, theirs is, maybe I'm just too sensitive.

It might just be an autopian pipe dream to have the best of both worlds but I've already come so far I might as well try...

Come spring I'm thinking of using the rear hatch as my guinea pig and starting from the very beginning. I'd starting by wet sanding it down and follow through all the way to coating to coating and topping.
...back story: the hatch was replaced last year and I compounded it lightly once and saw it the OP needed to be leveled to match the rest of my paint.
 
Priyaka said:
I can't speak for topping the Uber coating with FK1000P as I haven't used it. As for the DG topped with Collinite, I find it gives greater depth/gloss to my black paint and I like the added protection.

I guess to each there own.
Click to expand...


I guess it depends on the color of the car too. Silver plays differently with LSP than say my mother's dark red Ford (I call it black cherry). I noticed on the Ford that Klasse made the bright red flakes glow brightly and changed the color of the car so much my mother thought I had it painted (she liked it). I ended up polishing it and putting 845 and it totally changed the car to a brownish red with almost no flake pop at all (she doesn't like it and wants me to coat her car), but the paint looks glossy/buttery wet. I didn't experience the same thing on my silver paint at all (or I didn't notice it to the same extent/degree).

845 on the ford:


Flakes popping on freshly compounded paint (was getting the scratches out for her) - no LSP:
 
Priyaka & 4u2nvinmtl- Ah, you two both answered my Q in ways that make sense! Thanks for explaining.

4u2nvinmtl- I *do* find it odd that the FK1000P doesn't like that spot on your hood...heat or something?

And yeah....LSPs and how they look can be funny even if we're always saying how "it's 99.999% prep and the LSP doens't matter" and IME it's often really obvious on metallics. The 845/476S/FK1000P all gave *COMPLETELY* different looks on the Granite Metallic GMC I used to have, really surprised me.
 
So I have been using Fk1000P for quite a while now. Back in October, I applied the first layer and then after each wash (every 2 or so weeks), I applied another 2 layers. Recently, we had some snow here and a lot of salt/sand/brine etc. was used on the roads. The car wasn't washed for over a month until I washed it a few days ago. I actually pressured washed the car with just water two times on two separate occasions along with another rinsing before washing it. None of these rinses seem to remove the grime that was stuck all over the car on the lower portions. It was somewhat surprising.

I was assuming just a little that at least on the second pressure washing some of the grime might be removed from the paint but for the most part, it was not. The beading was nonexistent on the lower portions of the car and very limited/reduced on the other parts. The top and sides of the car fared better, as to be expected but even their beading was quite reduced.

So when I washed the car, I was actually a little surprised to see how much dirt and grime came off the car. I had to make multiple passes on several sections to get it clean. Even then, my drying towel become a bit dirty because the sections weren't completely clean. This was somewhat surprising because the FK1000P has been pretty durable for me and has released dirt fairly well before this time. But it seems lately that the dirt seems to be sticking to the car quite a bit. For now, I put on a spray LSP product on the car and will see how that does.

Thanks 4u2nvinmtl for the thread and Accumulator for the tips/suggestions.
 
Nav45- maybe you oughta dial back your thanks to me since your experiences weren't as great as I'd led you to expect!

Maybe they just use "sticks to the paint" salt/etc. in your area, but that still sounds disappointing.

Eh, maybe I'm just lucky..or there's some wildcard factor working in my favor, but anyhow I wish it had turned out better for you.

I *do* find that the pressure wash-only approach works a *LOT* better if you do it before the brine/etc. has a chance to dry on the vehicle. I know, easier said than done all right.

What spray product do you plan to use? I haven't used anything on top of FK1000P except their QDs (FK425 and FK146) and QD-strength IUDJ.
 
Love this color!

201507061793.jpg
 
Accumulator said:
Nav45- maybe you oughta dial back your thanks to me since your experiences weren't as great as I'd led you to expect!

Maybe they just use "sticks to the paint" salt/etc. in your area, but that still sounds disappointing.

Eh, maybe I'm just lucky..or there's some wildcard factor working in my favor, but anyhow I wish it had turned out better for you.

I *do* find that the pressure wash-only approach works a *LOT* better if you do it before the brine/etc. has a chance to dry on the vehicle. I know, easier said than done all right.

What spray product do you plan to use? I haven't used anything on top of FK1000P except their QDs (FK425 and FK146) and QD-strength IUDJ.
Click to expand...

Accumulator, no sir, I won't do that. FK1000P is great and it was recommended by you so thanks again!

I believe you are making a good point - the car wasn't washed for a while and the salt/grime was stuck for at least 5 or so days before I attempted to pressure rinse it off.

The spray product I used was Prima Hydro Max. I used this because I have had good results from it in terms of ease of use and the looks it gives. I cannot say anything for durability. I'm not sure what I will be using from here on out - I guess I'll try a product here and there and see how it does. But to be honest, I think if one wants durability then the FK is tough to beat. I might be wrong but the other products I have tried don't stay looking clean as long as the FK.

Do you think it might be OK to apply some FK down the road even if I use some other products on the car? I appreciate it.
 
Nav45 said:
..The spray product I used was Prima Hydro Max. I used this because I have had good results from it in terms of ease of use and the looks it gives...
Click to expand...

Ah, OK..not surprised it played nice with the FK1000P.

.. I might be wrong but the other products I have tried don't stay looking clean as long as the FK.
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Well, that's been my experience as well. Some do a great job of it for a while (M16, Collinite 845 and 476S, even KSG), but still not in the same league as the FK1000P.

Do you think it might be OK to apply some FK down the road even if I use some other products on the car?
Click to expand...

I think it's likely enough to be worth trying. I've used FK1000P over "products that leave stuff behind" (various AIOs and polishes) and I've never had a problem. I'm sure there's *some* kind of LSP that it won't bond to (I wouldn't ry it over Souveran or some other wax like that), but generally I'd be optimistic enough to at least try a test-spot before you bother stripping something off.
 
Sorry Autopians, I haven't updated this thread in some time... It's due to issues with the management of the condo building where I've been washing my car. Apparently someone complained about me taking pictures, and it's against the "rules" as photographers who don't live within the building need to be cleared by the management before taking pictures of the common area's. As I don't even live there I didn't want to push my luck taking photos when directly told not to.

My mother who lives in the building has also asked me to ease up on the frequent visits to wash my car and friends cars in her condo building (I was definitely abusing of the privilege). So I've been taking my Jeep SRT8 trough touchless washes for the last 1-2 months. This should really test the LSP durability as the touchless-mystery-soap must be very strong, to clean as well as it does.

Note: I specifically ask for the touchless without wax, just soap and high-pressure rinse.

Most importantly my wife and kids are happy that I haven't been away washing my car on the weekends and I must say I have taken that time for granted. I'm no Accumulator but at a minium of 2-3 hours of detailing on the weekends does add up to quite a bit of missed "family time". When I get back into my detailing routine I'm considering only detailing at night once the kids are asleep, but that's also when I'm most worn out.

Spring is in the air finally and the snow is starting to melt, at last! My next update (with photos/video) should be in 2-4 weeks once it warms up enough to start washing in my driveway again. The next update will likely be one of the last for this thread concluding what lasted best over the winter. I have to end the durability test because I've signed up for car shows in April/May and need to prep the paint accordingly (first time entering my car into a car show).

Going forward I'll be using my mother's dark red Ford Fusion as my test platform for new products and their durability. I'm sure that dark red color will be better suited for displaying the LSP characteristics as it's hard to see/tell on my silver Jeep.
 
And here I thought the test died ;). I actually thought about this a few days ago, then my old feeble brain forgot about it. Thanks for the update.

Dave
 
Viewer discretion is advised…

I think I took things a little far but I guess the results do speak for them self’s. I last washed my Jeep SRT8 on February 12[SUP]th[/SUP] or 50 days ago (washed on April, 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] for this update). I did how ever take it through a touchless twice (soap only) as I didn’t have access to a place to wash it.

Well I finally got a break in the weather where it was above freezing so I rushed out to get a full detail in. I spent 6 hours detailing the interior back to perfection and about 3-4 hours on the exterior (far from perfection). The exterior paint and faux chrome trim need to be decontaminated very badly at this point and I’m disappointed I let it get to this point but it will give me an opportunity to re-polish and apply the winging LSP.

The goods:
​

Wash process:
  • Pressure Rinse (connected to the hot water)
  • Foam Cannon (with 2oz of Meg’s D110 Hyper Wash and hot water)
  • APC the tire & Degreaser the wheel & exhaust tips (wash fender liners and scrubbed tires with brushes)
  • Wheel wooly, Speedy Detail brush, microfiber mitt, lug nut brush for the wheels and tires (using two buckets)
  • Pressure Rinse wheels and paint (soap was still dwelling and didn’t dry on the paint)
  • Two bucket washed with 1.5oz of Meg’s D110 Hyper wash and a CarPro Merino Mitt
  • Pressure Rinsed
  • Dried using Dry Me a River Jr. waffle weave towels D114 as a drying aid (sprayed onto the towel) as the paint was very grabby and contaminated

Foam action (always love how it looks):



​

LSP break down:
  • DFF – KAIO topped with 2 layers of KSG <- Applied 4 months ago
  • DRD – 2 layers of KSG <- Applied 4 months ago
  • DRF – 2 layers of DG601 & DG105 at a 1:4 Ratio <- Applied 4 months ago
  • PFF – 2 layers of FK-1000p <- Applied 4 months ago
  • PRD – 2 layers of FK-1000p <-Applied 4 months ago
  • PRF – 2 layers of Collinite 476s <- Applied 4 months ago
  • Hood – 1 layer of WG Uber <- Applied 5 months ago
  • Roof – 1 layer of Collinite 845 <- Applied 11 months ago

Key/Legend:
  • DFF = Drivers Front Fender
  • DRD = Drivers Rear Door
  • DRF = Drivers Rear Fender
  • PFF = Passenger Front Fender
  • PRD = Passenger Rear Door
  • PRF = Passenger Rear Fender

Post-rinse walk around inspection:
​

Close up of a problem area:
​
 
DFF – KAIO topped with 2 layers of KSG applied 4 months ago

I’m defiantly still impressed with this LSP and I must note, it had less bonded contaminants than the opposite panel with the FK1000P on it. The paint feels very grabby while washing and drying. There’s a considerable about of bonded surface contaminants, mostly tar but some break dust that’s starting to rust as well. Water still beads but in an oblonged way, and it sheets surprisingly well. I wouldn’t say it failed (far from it) but it certainly needs to be decontaminated and reapplied at this point IMHO. [End of test for this panel]

Pre-wash post rinse, full panel:


Pre-wash post rinse, close up:


Post-wash, final rinse, full panel:


Post-wash, final rinse, close up:


 
DRD – 2 layers of KSG applied 4 months ago

I find there’s very little differentiation from the DFF panel (with KIO&KSG) to this one (KSG only). I’m impressed KSG lasted this long without the KAIO. The paint feels very grabby while washing and drying and there’s a considerable about of bonded surface contaminants (mostly tar but some break dust that’s starting to rust as well). Water still beads but in an oblonged way, and it sheets surprisingly well. I wouldn’t say it failed but it certainly needs to be decontaminated and reapplied at this point IMHO. [End of test for this panel]

Pre-wash post rinse, full panel:


Pre-wash post rinse, close up:


Post-wash, final rinse, full panel:


Post-wash, final rinse, close up:


 
DRF – 2 layers of DG601 & DG105 at a 1:4 ratio applied 4 months ago

This panel had iron contamination that was starting to rust but still beads very well. Sheeting is not as strong as the Klasse panels but it’s not far behind. The paint felt grabby while washing and drying. I would defiantly say this product lasted but it needs to be decontaminated and reapplied at this point IMHO. [End of test for this panel]

Pre-wash post rinse, full panel:


Pre-wash post rinse, close up:


Post-wash, final rinse, full panel:


Post-wash, final rinse, close up:



 
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