Looking for moderately priced carnuba/sealant...

hmm, i see. Then 476 and 885 are same. I recall people saying 476 lasted the longest and was harder to apply, but also as in this thread, some people use it as a topper for looks or durability.



Ive heard of dg105, but never seen it for sale, or pics of results. I saw some results and beading tests today of col 915 and i was impressed.
 
If you're having a hard time applying hard paste waxes, I've found using a moistened and well wrung out cellulose sponge square gets a nice thin but very even coat of wax on your car panels.
 
Interesting info, Accumulator. Thanks for posting that. I really liked the look of the #16 on the metallic blue flake of the Viper. I actually did half of the car with #16 and the other half with P21S 100%, and I swear I think the #16 made the flake pop a little more. Maybe it's just me though....:tumblewee





Accumulator said:
Those of you just getting acquainted with #16 are in for a treat, it's really great stuff. It's "the paste wax that turns liquid" when you work it; and that makes it perfect for application via PC/etc.



After you rub the applicator around in the wax (it'll turn liquid if you do it fast enough), rub the applicator together to distribute the wax evenly. Then, try to squeeze as much wax as you can *back out of* the applicator. It doesn't take a dime-size amount of wax to do a hood, you need far less than that, so try to use a *little* wax as possible.



When applying subsequent applications/coats, I like to do a pseudo-spitshine where I spritz a *little* cool/chilled QD on the panel and then apply the #16 via machine, mixing it in with the tiny bit of QD and working it until there's only a thin film of wax residue lest. I don't work it until it disappears (as with a *true* spitshine) but I do spread the product out over a large area so it's very, very thin. What's left buffs off easily, but don't miss a spot...by the time you do the next wash that unbuffed #16 will be *VERY* hard to buff off.



I really can't overemphasize the thin application thing..I refresh the #16'ed vehicles frequently, so I use this product a lot. But a can still lasts me years and years, the last one lasted over a decade. Putting it on thick is just asking for problems, besides being a waste of a hard-to-find product. You should be able to wax a lot of Suburbans/etc. before you can really tell you've used any wax at all, and when you get down to just a tiny bit left in the outer rim at the bottom of the can, that's plenty to do a full-size sedan (including doorjambs/etc.).







I don't think the 845 is just a liquid version of their paste waxes, it seems completely different.



Putting *any* LSP on thin is the key to good results and easy use, paste or liquid. Try the tip above, about squeezing wax out of the applicator.



The pastes are a little more work but I've never found them a real PIA or anything like that.
 
still not sure why theres a 476 and a 885 if they're the same thing, only thing i noted was a volume difference. Or could it possibly that 885 is marketed to boats while the 476s to cars but still the same product?
 
I love #16 and all it took was 3 coats and it took 4 months of South Fl. summer to kill it. After that I quickly started collecting tins before the price hike on them and becoming harder to find. Picked up 6 or 7 tins and I'm still on my first one (05) with atleast 3/4 to go. Silver and whites #16 gets my vote with my second vote going to SS II (I would include Pinnacle Paste Glaz but good luck finding that).
 
BigAl3 said:
as long as you store any paste wax in a nice cool environment, it should easily last you many years...



Yeah, paste waxes just don't seem to be very sensitive to storage conditions.



That can of #16 that lasted me over a decade spent most of that time in my old shop that got well over 100F in the summer and near-freezing in the winter. My can of ProWax #41 from the '70s has stayed OK despite being stored in some *mighty* extreme conditions over the years too.
 
Fallguy said:
Why not just use Megs #26 , it's available , looks awesome , good durability , reasonable price.



For some people, on some paints, the #26 is a great choice.



But it's a *very* different wax, compared to the #16.
 
hmm, would the megs 16 be worth the 34$ to get it from canada? As the other person stated, is there that much of a difference between 16 and 26 (the new paste wax i believe)? But nobody answered my question about the difference between 476s and 885? I think 885 is just marketed as boat wax but is technically the same as 476 and more oz. 915 has more carnuba i think but also looks great, anybody note a beading or durability difference between 915 and 885? or note any increased durability using multiple coats or another product such as a sealant poli-seal for ex?



I know i keep asking that same last question, but have not heard a straight answer, just preferences.
 
sweetlou said:
hmm, would the megs 16 be worth the 34$ to get it from canada?
It depends, if I ran out of #16 it would be worth $34 to me, but I like #16 for a variety of other reasons and many might not see a difference between it and 476. To get the cost down wait until it goes on sale and buy more than one and sell the other/s to a friend.
sweetlou said:
.............But nobody answered my question about the difference between 476s and 885? I think 885 is just marketed as boat wax but is technically the same as 476 and more oz. ..........
It is the same wax but 885 is called Fleetwax, "For Marine & Aeronautical Finishes." The tech rep at Collinite is the one who told me (and others) that 885 is the same wax as 476.
sweetlou said:
.............915 has more carnuba i think but also looks great, anybody note a beading or durability difference between 915 and 885?......
I can't recall any direct comparisons between 476/885 and 915.



For $75 you can have all three (#16, 885, and 915) and then decide for yourself which one you like best. With some people paying anywhere from $100 to $2000 for a single wax that $75 is quite a bargain when you think about it.
 
Eliot Ness said:
I can't recall any direct comparisons between 476/885 and 915.



It's not a comparison to those, but 915 did very well against some very expensive waxes in Dave's wax test. Also, Todd (TH0001) and Ryan (Rydawg) both speak very highly of 915. I know Todd has tried the others and I'm sure Ryan has as well. Ryan has tried everything!
 
blk45 said:
It's not a comparison to those, but 915 did very well against some very expensive waxes in Dave's wax test. Also, Todd (TH0001) and Ryan (Rydawg) both speak very highly of 915. I know Todd has tried the others and I'm sure Ryan has as well. Ryan has tried everything!



Almost everything:heelclick



915 has always impressed me for a paste wax. The last time I used 476/885 was over 10 years ago, so all I remembered was the intense beading.



#16 was good, but I just hated the way the beads of water stay on top of the surface. I always noticed water spots after a rain storm and then if the sun came out it would bake them in.



No matter what I top a car with, I always use Zaino Z6 and Z8 as my detail sprays. They work superb with Collinite waxes.
 
i was looking at qds such as the zaino, which do you use for what occasion? i was thinking 476 over z2, or possibly over danse wet glaze would make a great combo. opinions?



ot, i have a few coats of bf afpp on right now, would i have to strip those before adding 476 (i probably would if i was gonna use something like z2 as a base) or after a wash just apply a layer? What is the best/safest product to strip waxes to start with a clean surface? (not sure about the dawn thing)
 
Back
Top