Looking for a new LSP
- Thread starter pmnewton
- Start date
Given that your car is garaged, given that durability is not a decisive concern, given that you enjoy waxing your vehicle on a regular basis, and given that it's black, I would definitely recommend a carnauba wax. A lot of people believe that carnauba wax provides as good environmental protection as a synthetic sealant, so I don't think you should worry about it.
My favorite carnauba waxes for black:
1) Victoria Concours Red (I love the look!)
2) Souveran (a lovely beauty wax that gives incredible depth, but durability is exceptionally limited)
3) Wolgang Fuzion (outrageously priced, however)
4) P21S 100%
You can, of course, use any of these as a topper over a polymer protectant; but I honestly don't see the point. I've done this, too; but I like the pure carnauba look better on a black car.
Personally, I'd go with Victoria Concours Red. It's a pleasure to apply. I think you'll love how your black car looks after two or three coats.
Another possibility: go with Blackfire Wet Diamond. This will give you the synthetic protection that you seem to prefer, and it looks great on black, too.
My favorite carnauba waxes for black:
1) Victoria Concours Red (I love the look!)
2) Souveran (a lovely beauty wax that gives incredible depth, but durability is exceptionally limited)
3) Wolgang Fuzion (outrageously priced, however)
4) P21S 100%
You can, of course, use any of these as a topper over a polymer protectant; but I honestly don't see the point. I've done this, too; but I like the pure carnauba look better on a black car.
Personally, I'd go with Victoria Concours Red. It's a pleasure to apply. I think you'll love how your black car looks after two or three coats.
Another possibility: go with Blackfire Wet Diamond. This will give you the synthetic protection that you seem to prefer, and it looks great on black, too.
imported_sal3291
New member
Duragloss 501 and 111
Optimum Opti Seal and Opt Car Wax
Bilt Hamber Finis
Dodo Supernatural Hybrid
Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection
HD Poxy
Optimum Opti Seal and Opt Car Wax
Bilt Hamber Finis
Dodo Supernatural Hybrid
Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection
HD Poxy
Accumulator
Well-known member
sal329- You like the UPP too, huh?
I keep debating whether to quit using it on the S8, but oh man I still have lots of it left and I'd hate to just let it sit there unused (maybe that's stupid reasoning when it comes to that car's protection and a product I paid for long ago :think: :nixweiss ). It *does* look great, and it sure is user-friendly and slick. I just can't get around how it doesn't seem to protect worth anything, at least not under the conditions I subject that car to.
I keep debating whether to quit using it on the S8, but oh man I still have lots of it left and I'd hate to just let it sit there unused (maybe that's stupid reasoning when it comes to that car's protection and a product I paid for long ago :think: :nixweiss ). It *does* look great, and it sure is user-friendly and slick. I just can't get around how it doesn't seem to protect worth anything, at least not under the conditions I subject that car to.
Bill D
Hooked For Life
It sounds to me that UPP could just be a spring/summer LSP. :nixweiss
I'm sure there's plenty of uses for it around the home too but it's understandable if you don't want anything to do with LSPs once you get done with using them on the cars in the shop.
I'm sure there's plenty of uses for it around the home too but it's understandable if you don't want anything to do with LSPs once you get done with using them on the cars in the shop.
extrabolts
New member
akimel said:
I agree. Normally I'd point people to 476. But if you really enjoy waxing your car, want to do it every 6-8 weeks, then you should use something that is really a joy to work with. Although I like working with 476, it really does not compare to some of the carnuabas as far as soft and smooth going on, easy to buff off. For frequent waxing, I'd also avoid anything not trim safe like FK1000P or Megs 26. Once you get into carnuabas, there are a lot of different looks and it becomes pretty personal.
Bill D
Hooked For Life
I'm considering switching to the Victoria waxes for my black and my white garage queens. I'd they're a joy to work with. I'd certainly be looking forward to them!
imported_sal3291
New member
Accumulator said:
The first time I used it was on a co-workers Rogue, I was impressed with the ease of use and slickness. 2 days later he tried to put on a bumper protector, rubber piece 2 sided taped to the top of rear bumper where the hatch comes down, he showed me the tape would not stick to the bumper, I wiped down with APC no go still, 5x IPA and finally was able to get the tape to stick. He had the "detailers" at our dealer wash it weekly, pressure washer, cheap soap and brushes, and also soft brush car was often and the car still looked great and beaded like crazy for 4 months, he now moved so I am not to sure if it is holding up any longer.
Accumulator
Well-known member
sal329- Interesting that the UPP is so durable for you, it doesn't last all that long for me but it's so easy to do that I don't really mind that.
imported_sal3291
New member
Accumulator said:
If it makes a difference mine is the polycharged version
I was in a similar situation. I am sing Griots products and they are great! I wash, then clay bar, then apply either Best of Show liquid Carnuba, or use their Carnuba stick and an orbital to apply. This weekend, as I too love to wax my Corvette (charcoal), I tried their layered suggestion ... after letting the first layer cure (heated garage) for 2-3 hours, apply the next coat overtop without buffing out the first coat. Unbelievable. The paint is 10 inches thick. I have never seen such a gel-coat feeling on the paint. It also builds up nice layers if your Carnuba LSP does not have any cleaners in it. Their stick is pretty much just pure carnuba with bees wax as a softener. I am quite happy!
My .02 ....
My .02 ....
Accumulator
Well-known member
sal329 said:
Maybe it does make a diff :think: :nixweiss
rdroe said:
Glad you're happy with the Griot's stuff. I've been doing business with them since the days when Richard answered the phone himself in the kitchen, so I hope you don't take the following as a slam at him/Griot's Garage much less as an :argue to you:
When I tried Richards "layer on before buffing off the first one" method it didn't do anything for me, which made sense since I simply don't see how it can work; the second application goes onto dried wax residue that is going to be buffed off. That second layer simply added to the excess wax that got buffed off. The only difference I could discern at all was that there was more dried wax on by buff-off towels. Eh, I just don't get the whole idea. My experience is that if I want to layer waxes without an extened wait period, I simply must do some sort of spit-shining or else it just doesn't work for me.
Again, hope that didn't come across as contentious, just a (very) differing experience. And I really would like somebody to explain how it's supposed to work
Accumulator said:Again, hope that didn't come across as contentious, just a (very) differing experience. And I really would like somebody to explain how it's supposed to work
I am with you Accumulator. Have not had the experience that Rick describes above... The second application seems to remove a portion of the dried residue from the first application, but doesn't seem to do a lot for layering, as the first layer has not cured yet. Don't really get the logic or science behind this application technique. Would love to know more.
Jeff
imported_Bence
New member
pmnewton said:
Ah, there is one thing to know about the 1000P. It is a long-curing product. It sets and reaches its stability point fairly quickly, but the entire curing process can take up to 3-4 days. If you decide to use it, examine the reflections day after day. You'll see that the overall sharpness and definition improves a lot during this period. In dry sunshine the finish may reach its peak after, say, 24 hours, but keep in mind that the initial look of 1000P is definitely not the same as its final appearance.
When your eyes memorized the difference, you can decide if you want to apply a topper...
autoaesthetica
New member
Bence said:
Strangest thing Bence is with this line. I am a lonnnnng time user of FK and even customers that have only been coated with 2 layers of 2685 comment that the next day they swear it looks different. Its gotta be the choice of polymer combinations as this literally makes this line stand out - its seriously impressive. 1000P gets THICK looking, 2685 just crisps up tremendously. Don't even get me started doing a long worked in coat of 2180
A little experiment tonight to determine the layering concept. Half the hood in the *layer* mode, the other in the *spit-shine* mode. I must say that the spit-shine mode worked a bit better. Let me describe briefly. Assume clay bar used and hood appropriate for LSP. A light mist of Griots spray wad. Then a light smear of the Carnuba BofSHow on a red buffing pad. Go over the hood until product is very thin. Wipe off (very easy for some reason). Repeat x 2. Then wipe off the other side with dual layers. Spit-shine is not only easier to wipe off, but appears to be a better shine. Now don't get me wrong, they both are GREAT. Sure beats anything else I have tried, but side 2 is better. Hmmm..
And, Accumulator, none taken. Information flow is what it's all about. I find what you said very interesting.
And, Accumulator, none taken. Information flow is what it's all about. I find what you said very interesting.
imported_Bence
New member
autoaesthetica said:Strangest thing Bence is with this line. I am a lonnnnng time user of FK and even customers that have only been coated with 2 layers of 2685 comment that the next day they swear it looks different. Its gotta be the choice of polymer combinations as this literally makes this line stand out - its seriously impressive. 1000P gets THICK looking, 2685 just crisps up tremendously. Don't even get me started doing a long worked in coat of 2180
I observed this behavior even with #1 New Car Glaze. Dunnowhat, but the FK polymers are very interesting. With 2180 I love how the finish reacts immediately with a "technical-looking" sharpness. I'd be happy camper if things'd stay like this. But the curing renders the DOI even better the next day. I always try to apply 3 coats of 2180 (or as much as it's necessary to reach the point where it stays on the surface of the paint, and doesn't disappear immediately). 1000P can start flat, even unisnpiring on certain colors, but 2 days later I always wonder, because the finish is clearer, deeper, thicker (the signature FK additional clearcoat look), and it's more appealing, attractive. 2685 again has a certain immediacy which improves in the next 2 days.