Looking for a detergent resistant LSP

F

Fallz

New member
Most of the customers that I do use automatic touch less washes . What would hold up to that ? Must be resistant to washes and have good durability and a decent shine. I'm kind of trying to find a winter blend since this when it's used most since I live in the road salt belt of the nation.



I have experimented with Collinite and such but am concerned that since something like ONR can poop out the look of Collinite that the washes will do the same thing. I know DG 105 says something about it on the bottle.



Your thoughts please

Thank you.
 
I find both FK1000P and (heavily layered) KSG to be outstanding in this regard. My Griot's Car Wash seems to have basically zero effect on them.



For a wax, Collinite 476S is also very good.
 
Fallguy said:
Looking for a detergent resistant LSP
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Fall, are we allowed to suggest an LSP like Opti-Coat? Certainly one of the most durable and resistant products out there.



If not, I'll 2nd Accumulator's recommendation for 2x on the FK 1000p :) IME, it doesn't get much better than that.
 
I doubt you will layer anything on a customers car ... I tried Collinite 845 when it was the flavour of the month and I was totally disappointed with its durability even under normal wash conditions. I have had good luck with the SG but that's also not something most customers want to pay for etc .. Megs #21 far outlasted 845. I don't think your going to find anything affordable/feasible that will do what your looking for.



I see now FK 1000P is the flavour of the month .. Just because its supposed to withstand high temperatures doesn't necessarily mean it will be any good in the cold and durable subject to the salt/chemicals on the roads and the soaps in the car washes.
 
Honestly, I'd think you would do better with a sealant. I did some chemical testing at home with Powerlock and found it virtually impossible to strip chemically. I tried IPA, Eraser, APCs, Griots Paint Prep, etc... Nothing would kill it. Finally I killed it with Meg's Chrome Wheel Cleaner (acid). I was testing on a glass panel.
 
If your clients are using touchless car washes, nothing but Opti Coat will stand up to the high pressure water and detergents very long.
 
Since we have the same winter weather, I can tell you what worked well for me on my DD. Meg's ULW, along with weekly D156/UQW after the washes. In the fall, I purchased car wash codes in bulk from a local Touchless wash and ran my DD through weekly during the winter.



If you drive the freeway system around Milwaukee, the salt use capital of the world, the car gets covered with brine almost immediately.



Coatings may offer better protection, but I like this combo and it lasted through our winter, (last season it was 5 months long), and come April, the paint still looked great, felt slick and had great beading.
 
I've had the same experience as jfelbab only with DG 105 and Aquawax. When I had a company car while living in New Hampshire always protected it with DG105 with Aquawax every other wash. Since I drove so much always had free touchless washes which where usually once a week but sometimes more often if I was picking up customers. 105/Aquawax combo lasted a good 5-6 months.
 
Jesstzn said:
.... I see now FK 1000P is the flavour of the month .. Just because its supposed to withstand high temperatures doesn't necessarily mean it will be any good in the cold and durable subject to the salt/chemicals on the roads and the soaps in the car washes.
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Note that I recommended the FK1000P based on *years* of hard, year-round use on daily drivers that are subjected to severe winter conditions. The dog-haulers get so coated with filth and salt (and those new mixes that are so tough to get off) that it's literally impossible to tell what color they are and I let 'em stay that way until I have time to do one of my "proper" washes with a *VERY* strong shampoo mix. The stuff lasts longer for me than most people would ever believe.



You mentioned KSG...IME that is only durable with at least four coats. Anything less is *not* what I consider durable at all, so maybe that gives some insight into what I'm saying when I tout the FK.



The 845 never lasted all that long for me unless I layered that one also. I never thought to do that until a member here suggested I try it, and sure enough it did make a difference. Still didn't last as long as one coat of their 476S though. Note that I switched the SUV to FK1000P because my Collinite regimen (base of 845, then 476S) didn't last long enough for me. I do *NOT* want to have to redo my vehicles come springtime :grinno:



EDIT: Gee, people are acting like half-a-year is a long time; I'd be utterly disappointed (as in, "what did I do wrong!?!") if my FK only lasted that long. If you're gonna redo every few months anyhow you might as well go by looks and user-friendliness IMO.
 
I would agree, I've aslo had tremendous winter service from FK 1000p. I've been through multiple winters (on multiple cars) with FK 1000p and I don't think I've witnessed anything that lasted as long (not including coatings). Great product value-wise.



I worked on a car last month that I applied FK 1000p to exactly 12 months prior and it's beading was nearly as good as the day it was applied. Granted, that car does not experience winter, mostly just high ambient temps during the summer mixed in with the monthly auto car wash.
 
Swanicyouth said:
Honestly, I'd think you would do better with a sealant. I did some chemical testing at home with Powerlock and found it virtually impossible to strip chemically. I tried IPA, Eraser, APCs, Griots Paint Prep, etc... Nothing would kill it. Finally I killed it with Meg's Chrome Wheel Cleaner (acid). I was testing on a glass panel.
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As some will have seen elsewhere, I find that this should be a much more common characteristic than most people think. I am fairly convinced that a lot of people are being fooled into believing that they are chemically stripping.



As a side note, acids are actually far from the best degreasers out there. Yes, they are nasty and will do a number on wheels but that is basically a metallic oxide which acids react readily with (remember your high school chemistry). The reason we don't use acids for general cleaning is because most soils are not well removed with acid, compatability is poor. You generally need a pretty good surfactant blend to get an acid to do much degreasing. As it happens, LSP removal is basically hard core degreasing.
 
A coating would get my first vote, but DG105 and Collonite 476s are my second choices. I just did my work car with DG105/601 combo, so easy to use, goes on and off like nothing, inexpensive and great durability.
 
tom p. said:
..I worked on a car last month that I applied FK 1000p to exactly 12 months prior and it's beading was nearly as good as the day it was applied. Granted, that car does not experience winter...
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While I did finally redo the hood of the Tahoe, I *still* haven't needed to redo the roof. WAY longer than 12 months yet it's not only still beading great, but it's slick and readily releases any contamination. Lots of winter use too.



Jesstzn said:
Whats good prep for 1000p to get the best longevity ?
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I treat it like a sealant as opposed to a wax (i.e., I don't apply it over "oily glazes"), but I'm not sure that even *that* is necessary. I do strip any polishing oils (M205 is simply awful when it comes to this, so I'm not gonna ever use it again when applying FK1000P if only for that reason) and then I generally use some kind of AIO (KAIO or ZAIO) or a finishing polish that leaves all-synthetic protection behind (1Z Pro MP works great). So IMO you do *NOT* need to apply it to bare paint in order to get great durability. While stuff like KAIO/1Z ProMP only last a few weeks by themselves, this does *NOT* compromise how long the FK1000P lasts, not at all :grinno:



Can't help with the ?hot/warm surfaces? as I'm always in a climate-controlled shop these days :nixweiss
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