Look mom, no handles! - Thanks RAG

Junebug

Junebug

JAFO
OK, I've had a bumpy relationship with rotary buffing. I've tried various pads, foam - wool, different compounds and polishes. I finally got a combo that works fair for me, excellant for everybody else. So I figured it's me, rotary work is another thing I need to leave alone. I was considering using it only on very bad paint and with wool pads. But, then I really would need to get a Flex to achieve the level of finish I want. Then I got a tip from autopian member"RAG", I explained in painful detail my issues and he advised me to just hold the makita by the top - right over the spindal, there are little slots on the underside that your fingers fit into. It felt like a big PC with a lot more power, but, I finally got the control and feel that I had been missing. The other tip was to keep the rpm's at 1000, and use these steps - light pressure to spead the polish, heavy 15-20 lbs and slow movement to take out the scratches, and very light pressure and faster movement to finish up. I did an Acura 2005, TL with gray paint that turned back to silver after wash, clay,106 and Z5. I feel great, the car looked beautiful, the owner was HAPPY and promised to send her friends to me.
 
Spot on mate, RAG is a bloody legend and I also use the same technique (fingers into slots) when doing doors. It gives much more control and comfort

I start at 600 and work up to 1000 but only use pressure on occasion. I find it can make the polish dry up faster.
 
Congratulations on picking up some skills to pay the bills. RAG will be blessed for helping others. It is always great when Autopians help each other. :woot2:
 
Amen Bro! I think we all have a spirit of wanting to help fellow detailers reach their potential. That's one reason I posted that and the other was to give credit where credit is due.
 
Very cool! I'm glad it all worked out for you. I've been thinking about "stepping up" to a rotary and it's experiences like yours that give me hope I can make it work for me as well! :) Thanks for posting!
 
Accumulator! How ya been? Had a chance to try the Edge pads yet? I'm still experimenting with different pads, 3M is not bad, but I have heard good stuff on the 7.5" LC CCS pads and I'm looking at them after my 3M ones get ratty. Ain't it amazing how just taking handles off can change how you look at stuff, I mean I was about to sell my makita and go with Flex. Now, I'm looking forward to the next challange with my rotary.
 
So you guys only go up to 1000...I have seen on so many other posts people going up to 1500 and sometimes even more. Does the speed depend on the size of the pad? I saw in SVR video he is using what looks like a 4 inch pad. More tips on using a rotary would be great. Don't need to waste $$$$$ on a flex if I can get my makita working good. Also, SVR what type extension are you using on your rotary? Is that recommended? Thanks for answering my questions.
 
JuneBug- I'm still waiting on the UPS guy..no hurry as I'm always so busy with other stuff anyhow.



I think it's a good thing that you kept the Makita...even if it's not your favorite tool (I just don't love my rotaries) it's sure handy to have it when you need it.
 
JuneBug said:
he advised me to just hold the makita by the top - right over the spindal, there are little slots on the underside that your fingers fit into.
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Doesn't it get too hot to hold there? After doing a few panels, my Makita almost gets too hot to remove the backing plate from it. Does this stress out your back more too?
 
1000 rpm keeps the heat down, therefore you have less chances of burning through the paint...I compound at 1200-1600, and polish at 900-1000, then hit it with a PC just in case, or on softer paints...
 
David Fermani said:
Doesn't it get too hot to hold there? After doing a few panels, my Makita almost gets too hot to remove the backing plate from it...
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Noting that your situation is almost certainly more [everything] than mine, the top of my Makita never gets all that hot (not enough for it to have registered on me); even my marathon session on the rent-a-Suburban a few years ago didn't cause that (I was using speeds around ~1,500). Didn't get hot doing the M3 at ~2,000, but I wasn't spending forever at those speeds without taking a break to inspect/etc. either and it might've cooled down during the pauses.



Does this stress out your back more too?
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IME holding it that way doesn't have any effect pro/con on my back. It's basically holding the Makita the same way everybody holds the Metabo and it's also the same way I hold the PC and, more or less, the Cyclo...so maybe I'm just used to it :nixweiss
 
David, I had the same findings as Accumulator, it's just like holding a larger more powerful PC. I worried that I'd drag my knuckles on the backing plate or something, but it was perfectly safe. If you look at the Flex comparison that - oh can't think - but the guy did a comparison of the PC, Flex and Makita, - clearly looking at the low, close handle on the Flex, the designers were on target, Makita offers the next best grip - IMHO - without handles.



And I have lower back issues, ever since I ruptured a disc a few years back. But, knock on wood, I have not had the pain that I had a few months ago, I guess I'm getting tougher.
 
Nice. I try it next time. These days, my buffing sessions last for sometimes 6 or more hours (sometimes non-stop), mixed with Florida heat, it can get a little hot I guess (especially bringing it up to level 3+).



I alway figured the further you have to reach out in front of you, the more stress it creates on your back. I was thinking the bail handle brings you that much closer to the vehicle reducing muscle tightening . I'll try it a see.
 
I've used a rotary at speeds of 2400rpm. the amount of heat will depend on the product used. 3m recommends 2000rpm for some of their products. Optimum barely cuts at 2400rpm with a green pad.
 
JuneBug, glad to hear it worked out for you.



And thanks for the praise fellas...I'm surprised, as not too many people on here know me any more since I don't participate as like I used to, and I haven't posted any pictures for a long long time. But thanks.
 
Actually, I have back problems too...and detailing for 8-10 hours a day at "full throttle" can be a real killer...very few people realize how hard this work is; physically, it's as hard as anything! I don't know if holding the buffer a certain way make a difference or not...but for me, I have more control of the machine and maybe that helps some.



JuneBug said:
David, I had the same findings as Accumulator, it's just like holding a larger more powerful PC. I worried that I'd drag my knuckles on the backing plate or something, but it was perfectly safe. If you look at the Flex comparison that - oh can't think - but the guy did a comparison of the PC, Flex and Makita, - clearly looking at the low, close handle on the Flex, the designers were on target, Makita offers the next best grip - IMHO - without handles.



And I have lower back issues, ever since I ruptured a disc a few years back. But, knock on wood, I have not had the pain that I had a few months ago, I guess I'm getting tougher.
Click to expand...
 
wannafbody said:
I've used a rotary at speeds of 2400rpm. the amount of heat will depend on the product used. 3m recommends 2000rpm for some of their products. Optimum barely cuts at 2400rpm with a green pad.
Click to expand...



I'm not sure how we got into speeds, but with most pads I feel like the pad just "skips" over the surface above 1500 RPMs rather than getting worked around...now with wool I often run at 2500 RPMs, as I believe the wool is producing most of the cut anyways, so skipping across the surface works just fine.
 
On a hot day, I know I work my buffers very hot. My Metabo, I can not even grab the body unless I blow air on it. My Hitachi's head also gets very hot on a hot day fast with ease. After a 12 hour day, my skin is melting off and bright red.
 
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