Leather and headlight restoration. Esoteric Auto Detail

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Here we have a '99 Chrysler LHS that quite frankly has been a bit neglected for the past 10 years. The paint was in bad condition, but the customer simply wanted it cleaned up, protected, and shiny.



Their big concern was to bring the interior back to life, as well as repair one of the damaged headlights. I don't think that the leather had ever been cleaned, and it was showing a bit of wear. I saw this as a great opportunity to outline the processes of simple leather restoration, and to show the required steps for headlight repair.



First up was the leather interior. Even in a short period of time, light colored leather in particular starts to get soiled from dirt, grime, perspiration, airborne contaminants, etc. Without the occasional cleaning, this will build up over time making it quite difficult to remove. Since this vehicle probably was never cleaned, I knew it was going to require a lot of effort.



Given this, I decided to use Leatherique as it has always performed very well with the more challenging leather restoration jobs. Two products are actually used...Rejuvinator Oil and Prestine Clean. The Leatherique system works backwards compared to what you're normally used to. First you use the conditioner, and then you use the cleaner! Yes, it sounds counter-intuitive, but it works (well)!



For the before and after photos, I tried to use the exact same lighting and exposure so they are all accurate comparisons. I also do not use any post-processing either.



Here are a few “before� pictures showing the condition of the interior. As always, the driver's seat was the worst.

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Here you can see that the lumbar support is actually cracking.

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Passenger seat:

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The first step in the process is to vacuum the surfaces to make sure all of the debris is picked up.

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Here I have the Rejuvinator Oil and Prestine Clean ready to go. To make it easier, I utilize a spray nozzle on the Prestine Clean, and I put the Rejuvinator Oil in a small bowl and apply it with a foam brush. Leatherique recommends applying it with your hands so you can rub it in, but I find that I have much more control of the Oil when using the brush. When you're climbing in and out of the vehicle for this step, it's also nice not having it all over your hands where you could potentially get it everywhere.

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Here I am applying the Rejuvinator Oil. Be sure to get a thick coating everywhere, and work it into the stitching as well. After you're done applying the product, you could further work it into the surface, folds, seams, and stitching either with your hands or with a leather brush.

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You can see where the seating surface is completely coated.

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The Rejuvinator Oil works with time and heat. The best way to allow the product to work is to roll up the windows, and let the car sit outside in the sunshine for the day to create a steam room effect. During this time it conditions the surface (especially on non-coated leather), and brings all of the dirt, grime, salt, and other toxins to the top leaving a sticky or tacky finish before it's removed. I prefer to let it sit for about a 24 hour period. If it's cooler outside, you'll need to leave it on longer. You could cover the seats with plastic wrap and heat it up with a hair dryer (or drive around with the heater and seat warmers on!)



Here's a good tip. If you need the ability to pull the car in and out of the garage, then cut up a large plastic garbage bag and cover the seat. You won't have the worry of getting the Oil all over yourself, and the plastic won't remove it from the leather. Afterwards I wipe down the plastic, fold it up, and store it in the cabinet for future use.

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Fast forward now to 24 hours later...



Now that you're done with the first step, it's time to clean the surface off with Prestine Clean. You'll need to have a bucket of warm water, a soft brush and towel, and a spray nozzle for the next stage as the Prestine Clean isn't thick like the Rejuvinator Oil.



First, spray the Prestine Clean directly on the leather surface.

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Now you want to use your leather brush and work the product in. Pay particular attention to the creases, seams, and stitching. You'll quickly see the grime being removed.

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Now that you've worked that particular area, wet your towel in the bucket, wring it out, and then wipe down the leather to reveal a remarkable new look. I like to wipe it down, rinse out the towel, and then wipe it once again. After I've done this, I'll then move on to the next section and spray, scrub, and wipe. In this picture the surface has already been wiped down...look at the difference in the color of the leather in comparison to the photo above!

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Since this process removes so much dirt and grime, you'll probably want to refresh your bucket with clean water halfway through the cleaning to make sure you're not re-introducing dirt (or use a two-bucket method).



In this photo, the passenger seat has been finished, but not the driver's seat...notice the difference in color on this one as well.

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Passenger seat before:

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After:

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Driver's before:

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After:

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Before:

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After:

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Door before (notice the grime built up in the texture of the armrest):

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After:

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“Mood� shots:

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The rest of the interior was cleaned up with woolite/water mix, and the plastic and vinyl was dressed with 303 Aerospace Protectant. The gauges and console were cleaned with Megs Quick Interior Detailer. Kick panels and other heavily scuffed plastic parts were cleaned with Megs APC+ and Magic Erasers.



We're not done yet, so if you need to take a quick break that's OK...







Ready to go some more? Alright then, let's get working on that headlight.



We've all seen car headlights that have turned into a foggy haze. Not only does it look bad, but it's also unsafe. Sure you could buy a new headlight, but for modern cars you can plan on paying a couple hundred bucks for one.



I'm going to take you through the steps to restore a headlight. Depending on the condition, you can probably get it back to about 90% of new.



This was had some pretty serious damage to it. I could tell that it had been hit by something as it had pretty deep gouges all across the light. Given the condition, I knew I was going for “better� as opposed to like-new.

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For this condition, you're going to need at least several steps of wetsanding followed by several steps of machine polishing. You also want to tape all around the headlight to protect any seals/trim as well as painted finishes. Here I am starting with 1500 grit sandpaper. I started off just like I would with any wetsanding project...go in one direction first, and then alternate directions as you move up through the different levels of paper. Here I started with horizontal passes. (Hey Todd...nice tape job!)

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The next step up I went to vertical passes:

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After about 4 different grits of paper, I switched to the rotary to take out the sanding haze and to polish out the finish. I first used a 4� PFW pad with Megs 105 compound, and then used an orange pad with SIP, and finally finished it up with 106FF and a white pad.

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Once again...before:

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After:

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Since this light was hit with some force, it had micro-fractures all through the light that was well below the surface and obviously couldn't be corrected. When it was done, it looked probably 75%-80% of a new one.
 
I was only going for a quick polish to clean the surface and add a layer of protection and gloss, so I didn't take a bunch of before/after photos. For this application, the easy choice with Optimum Poliseal because it's an absolutely tremendous all-in-one...very easy to use, has durable protection, and looks great even on neglected paint. I polished the car with a PC on speed 6 with an orange 5.5� pad.



Yes, there's trim missing from the top of the hood.

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This paint was “dead� before I started (I don't think it had even been waxed...EVER). Now it has a nice gloss without spending a tremendous amount of time.

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All done! :)

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Thanks as always for checking out my work. I tried to make this one a little educational since I didn't have all of the glossy exterior photos to show off. I hope you enjoyed...
 
nice work todd! i really liked the right up especially how you made sure to empasize the cross hatching in wet sanding! have you ever tried to d/a headlights. i have a snapon 3 inch d/a that makes it a little faster. great work these guys can learn from that writeup for sure!
 
Truly an enjoyable read Todd, I was never sold on the leatherique products until now. It was interesting to see the step by step transformation. I really didnt think all that grim could be pulled out of the pores of the leather like that, looks like two different color seating options!



Very impressive stuff and the headlight resto was a great read as well!
 
Does the leatherique have to set for 24 hours? I am considering using that but no one gives me their car for that long because I am only 17. Also, what sand paper did you use and could you PM me some more details on the headlight restoration, I need to do it on some cars. I have all the polishes you used but a flex xc3401.



Great results by the way.



Thanks
 
Wow that leather turned out awesome...question for you, about how many times could you do your headlight process without removing the factory UV protection on them...for newer headlights i mean, it looks like these were already gone
 
Wow, I have been eying up the Leatherique combo... I have been wondering about how much product you use on a typical car? Using the Rejuv Oil on two captains chairs and a rear bench, and then cleaning with the prestine clean... approximate guess on the OZs used.



I am only asking because I want to start using the Leatherique products, but only on the cars I need to and would be charging accordingly.



Great Job!
 
Ah yes, i like the technique with the foam brush with the leatherique. I always used the hand method :(. This might make it a bit less messy now. :).



Great job on everything, taking notes as i go.
 
Matt...thanks!



Barry...Thanks. I've not done D/A sanding but want to get the tools.



Sludge...thanks, I appreciate it.



Dave...Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it. Leatherique has always worked well for me. Elbow grease is still required, but the results speak for themselves.



mburns...Thanks. It does not have to sit for 24 hours. If it's a hot day and the car can sit on in the sunshine with the windows rolled up, then you could probably get away with 4 or 5 hours unless it's in really bad condition. There's not a whole lot more to restoring headlights than what I listed. Do a few searches and you can probably find a few more examples to learn from as well.



David...Thank you.



sal329...Thanks.



longdx...Thanks. Yes, it's a great product for sure.



jordanrossbell...Thanks. Yes, these were already gone. There are too many variables to answer that questions. I'm sure the occasional light polishing isn't going to have much of an affect on them because it's a much less invasive process than what headlights incur on a daily basis (weather, rocks, temperatures, sunlight, salt, etc).



sr20det...Thank you. Leatherique recommends 4oz per seat, but I find myself using much less than that. You want to be sure you charge for the extra time and to for the added product cost.



Sam...Thanks. I'm glad I could help you refine your process to a less messy one! :)
 
Todd, great work with the leather! Every LHS that I see has the leather torn up and it's nice to see they can actually restore fairly well.



As far as the UV coating on the headlights, do you apply any protectant yourself to the headlights after you restore them? I have used a couple different types of UV protection but haven't found anything yet to be a replacement to the factory UV protection.
 
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