Layering #7 Show Car Glaze

M

mskent1

New member
Will it increase the depth and optical clarity of a dark metallic finish if you apply multiple layers of #7 glaze?



If so, is there any associated process/method?



So far I've cleaned & polished with Meg's Deep Crystal system and am in the middle of applying a coat of #7, which really deepens the paint luster.



Just wondering if more is better in this case.



Also - what's the verdict - Meg's #26 or Meg's Gold Class Liquid? How many coats would you apply and do you wash or use anything else in between coats - any wait time in between?



Thanks - hope I'm not duplicating a thread but I did a search and didn't see anything like this.



Ghost
 
Ghost said:
Will it increase the depth and optical clarity of a dark metallic finish if you apply multiple layers of #7 glaze?



If so, is there any associated process/method?



So far I've cleaned & polished with Meg's Deep Crystal system and am in the middle of applying a coat of #7, which really deepens the paint luster.



Just wondering if more is better in this case.



Also - what's the verdict - Meg's #26 or Meg's Gold Class Liquid? How many coats would you apply and do you wash or use anything else in between coats - any wait time in between?



Thanks - hope I'm not duplicating a thread but I did a search and didn't see anything like this.



Ghost
Click to expand...

Gold Class Liguid may have a cleaner in it that will remove the No. 7.



ALso, I've never had much success applying No. 7 multiple times. It's not a wax, so you're really not layering it. It has a lot of oils in it that make the paint look really wet, and one you buff off any excess, you need to preserve that look with a good wax, like the No. 26, or maybe P21S.
 
I've done two successive applications of #7 and it did seem to deepen the gloss a bit but not as dramatic as the first coat.....diminishing returns. As for the wax, #26 Paste would get my vote over GC (paste or liquid). #26 lasts way longer and IMO, has a wonderful, deep gloss and the #7 will get you the wet look that the GC would provide if you were just using the wax without the glaze.



Warning......thin coats on the #26 and give it at least 15 minutes before buffing out or it can be a bear to remove.
 
I highly reccommend S100 (P21S0) over top of #7, I did a tan car about a week ago with this combo and it came out great, very slick. I didn't see any effect in layering the #7. For wax def. go with #26 over GC...but if you could try to get S100 wax at a motorcycle shop over #26, that would make it look even better, and application with S100 is easier.
 
NattyBumppo said:
I've done two successive applications of #7 and it did seem to deepen the gloss a bit but not as dramatic as the first coat.....diminishing returns. As for the wax, #26 Paste would get my vote over GC (paste or liquid). #26 lasts way longer and IMO, has a wonderful, deep gloss and the #7 will get you the wet look that the GC would provide if you were just using the wax without the glaze.



Warning......thin coats on the #26 and give it at least 15 minutes before buffing out or it can be a bear to remove.
Click to expand...



I've got liquid #26 I apply with a Meg's finish pad on a PC. Very thinly :)



Is the paste better than the liquid or just a pers pref type of thing?



Thanks for the feedback folks!



Ghost
 
I asked this question about #26 vs. gold class a while ago and didn't get a definite answer....



I tried it for myself last weekend...wash the car with dawn, put a layer of #7 show car glaze and put a coat of gold class in the driver door and front fender, and a coat of #26 on the passenger door and rear fender....



I drove the car outside and asked my friend if he can tell any difference...he can't.....I watched it very very closely and noticed that the gold class is slightly (very slightly) brighter than #26 while the #26 looks a bit darker/deeper.....so I think it all depends on what you like....bright or deep........



and btw the car is beige toyota camry....I might try the S100 in the future though...but the thing is I just bought the gold class liquid and I don't feel like throwing it away......
 
Ghost said:




I've got liquid #26 I apply with a Meg's finish pad on a PC. Very thinly :)



Is the paste better than the liquid or just a pers pref type of thing?



Thanks for the feedback folks!



Ghost
Click to expand...



Paste over liquid is just my personal preference based on;



A) paste seems to last longer

B) I can't help but think that the process of making the wax pourable has weakened it somewhat and thus it may not protect as long as the paste form.



Point B is my "old school" perception (old habits die hard) and certainly not based on any real hard evidence. I'm sure there are plenty here that can prove or disprove my paste over liquid bias. Either way, we're most likely dealing with a very small difference.
 
Your "old school" perception is correct, but not because making it a liquid weakens the wax. It's because to make it a liquid, there has to be less carnauba, and more solvents. Since carnauba is hard and is the protectant, using a liquid you get slightly less protection. But the difference is likely not noticeable, except for over a very, very long period. And for an Autopian, the difference is probably moot, as he/she is applying more wax before the old stuff has worn off.
 
raugusta said:
I asked this question about #26 vs. gold class a while ago and didn't get a definite answer....



I tried it for myself last weekend...wash the car with dawn, put a layer of #7 show car glaze and put a coat of gold class in the driver door and front fender, and a coat of #26 on the passenger door and rear fender....



I drove the car outside and asked my friend if he can tell any difference...he can't.....I watched it very very closely and noticed that the gold class is slightly (very slightly) brighter than #26 while the #26 looks a bit darker/deeper.....so I think it all depends on what you like....bright or deep........



and btw the car is beige toyota camry....I might try the S100 in the future though...but the thing is I just bought the gold class liquid and I don't feel like throwing it away......
Click to expand...



I also bought GC before S100, I will only ever use GC on crap now or if I need a cleaner Wax.
 
Ghost,



I agree with what's already been said here! Applying multiple coats of #7 will have diminishing affects. Also, I might add that GC seems to be somewhat abrasive. Therefore, IMHO, it would tend to be removing itself with each coat. In addition, I've found that most carnauba waxes don't layer particularly well, at least as far as increased looks and added durability go. However, that's just my personal observation.



If you're looking for a product that looks better with layering, you may want to look into a sealant like Klasse or Zaino.
 
Thanks for the feedback folks! I went with 1 layer of #7 and then the #26 hi-tech wax. Let it dry about 45 minutes, came right off with no difficulty whatsoever. Also applied a second coat, looks pretty nice to me!



Ghost
 
I'm a complete beginner to all of this. I used Meg's #9 followed by Gold Class. I asked the question about layering and was told that a second layer might even out the GC, but wouldn't be the equivalent of a full 2nd layer.



I noticed that my car was shinier after the second application. I wouldn't say that it has any depth though. I'll try something else next time and a polymer for winter.
 
I have found best results by using only 1 layer of #7. If you great surface prep, 1 coat will make all the differnece in the world. Top it iff with S100, and you will have a super-slick shine.:D
 
caddyman said:
I have found best results by using only 1 layer of #7. If you great surface prep, 1 coat will make all the differnece in the world. Top it iff with S100, and you will have a super-slick shine.:D
Click to expand...



Agreed Caddyman - I spent a lot of time prepping. Then used 1 application of Meg's Crystal Polish, which made a lot of difference and is all I ever used to do.



Putting on the #7 is a real mind bender! Just looks fantastic. Really highlights any surface imperfections or flaws, as well. :rolleyes:



Thanks!



Ghost
 
2wheelsx2 said:
Your "old school" perception is correct, but not because making it a liquid weakens the wax. It's because to make it a liquid, there has to be less carnauba, and more solvents. Since carnauba is hard and is the protectant, using a liquid you get slightly less protection..../B]
Click to expand...
Oh good, I sweat so much more putting on and buffing off my #26 paste (as opposed to my S100) sometimes I wonder, Why the heck didn't I get the liquid instead?!?!? :p
 
Tommorow I am gonna go at the car again, and am gonna start from scratch using 2x #9, #7 (not sure how many coats, will test and let everyone know) and then maybe 2x of #26 all by hand.



I have gotten a ton of swirl marks from lazy detailing and they are pissin me off and yeah! lol!
 
I know you can layer on the glazes/polishes right after each other but when you talk about layering waxes do you have to wait for them to cure for a certain amount of time?



Most of what I see talked about on autopia seems to be people starting from scratch (clean the paint, polish, glaze, top) but how would you go about maintaining this finish once your done?



I'm going to prep my car with a coat of #7 followed by s100 every 2-3 weeks. I know I am able to just keep layering on the s100 as I have time but would it be ok to apply the #7 occationally without needing to strip off the s100 first? Also, how often would I need to re-apply #7?
 
As you "Seal" the #7 with wax or whatever you use, I would think the #7 would hang around as long as it remains "sealed", or essentially as long as your wax lasts. I have not tried to apply more #7 on top of the #26 as most of the feedback I received indicated it was not going to make a lot of difference.
 
Here's a combination I like:

-Prepare the car by shampooing and claying if necessary

-Use #9 swirl remover with a PC

-Use #7 show car glaze with a PC

-Use P21S by hand

-Use #34 final inspection, and buff lightly with PC with grey finishing pad or MF bonnet.

Yields tremendous results!

John
 
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