I run a landscaping company on the side so I have just a little bit of experience with this topic.
Some of the earlier suggestions are great. Sharp lawn mower blades is a big one. A dull blade will shred the blade of grass and the tip of the blade will then turn brown. A sharp blade will sslice the blade clean and it will brown less.
Of coure all maintenance varies by region, area and even block.
Get a good soil test kit. It will show you what nutrients are missing in your soil. Use that test to add the missing nutrient ie nitrogen, phosphate, etc...
Scotts turfbuilder series is ok stuff. I've used it and had good results. A few years ago I switched from that to a safer, and better alternative fertilizer.
Scotts is a primaraly synthetic fertilizer. One issue with synthetics is that they can "salt" your soil. In other words they can eventually accumulate in the soil to the point that they damage the soil.
I've switched to all natural ferts (organic based) to try and elimiate that problem. The primary reason is that I fertilize every 5-6 weeks. If you fertilize every 90-120 days or more, then the risk is less.
Just a hint, organics are much better for your grass, and the environment. They do take more to do the same job though, and can cost a little more. There one 50# bag of Scotts will cover my lawn, it takes me two 50# bags of the organic. The result though is a healthier lawn.
The best tip I can tell you is to use Iron to achieve the greenest grass. Most people will tell you that nitrogen is the key to green grass. The truth is that Iron gives it the color, Notrogen makes it grow and suck up other nutrients in the fert. Scotts has about 2% iron, but the nitrogen numbers are pretty high like 28 or 32. Sure the grass gets green, but it also grows like crazy!
I use an iron supplement from Lesco. It's pure iron pellets that are time released. I do one application, then follow it the ame day with an application of a natural fert that has some nitrogen to force the grass to consume the iron. During the summer I'm using 9-9-14 if I can get it. The benefit is that the roots grow deeper, and the blade turns green, but doesnt' grow as fast.
Of course there's more to this than what I stated. But thats a pretty good start.
As far as watering. Try and deep water less frequently rather than constant light watering. It forces the roots to grow deeper to look for the water. This makes it more drought tolerant.
If you have an irrigation system and water every day the roots will stay closer to the surface. They don't have to work for it, so they become weak, and prone to disease and drought.
Try and aerate the lawn at least every two years. It will help introduce oxygen into the ground and also helps drainage and permeating the fert. If you can't aerate, you can try some beneficial nemetodes. They are organisms that you spread like fert. They munch on the dead stuff in the dirt and create "compost" in the ground. (thats a really gray definition, but pretty accurate)
A strong yard will need little if any weed control. I spot spray weeds twice a year. My grass is so thick that weeds just cant permeate the lawn.
Just remember grass needs air water and food, just like you.
