Klasse SG, the Bill North way

can someone sum up the application process in one finalized step process for those of us who are slightly confused.



this is how im seeing it:



1. Spray SG on a dry MF towel

2. Apply thin layer

3. Wipe off with a seprate dry towel

4. Repeat on whole car

5. Wait 24 hours.

6. Repeat



That is it, correct?
 
Also to those recomending clay baring the suface before using the SG, wouldn't this defeat the purpose of a polish / AIO that was previously applied?
 
spetulla,



That is basically the method that I used after Bill N. posted. I tried SG this past weekend using this method. I used a handle foam app to apply and then waited approx 1-3 mins before buffing off. The shine seems to be just as good as if I waited one hour and buffed off with damp/dry MF method.



After the heavy rains we had here in Pa. this week, the car beaded up fine and looked great.



IMO this method is much easier than allowing it to dry and removing with the damp/dry MF.



Hope it helps..
 
Sounds much easier, i love easy sluts, err easy detailing.



ANYWAY...



any comments on the clay baring? I have my whole car wetsanded so i am pretty much starting from the ground up, any advice on when clay baring would be beneficial to me?



sorry for off topic
 
spetulla said:
Sounds much easier, i love easy sluts, err easy detailing.



ANYWAY...



any comments on the clay baring? I have my whole car wetsanded so i am pretty much starting from the ground up, any advice on when clay baring would be beneficial to me?



sorry for off topic
Click to expand...



If its *just* been sanded no need to clay .. But I would clay before AIO this way your not leaving a QD residue before the SG.
 
OutlawTitan said:
OK. I used the two MF towel (one damp, one dry) to remove the two layers of SG on my car. It has been 2 months and so far no haze.....but now I am worried. Can I use the wipe on wipe off method to apply another layer of SG or should I go back to AIO first and then do the wipe on wipe off method?
Click to expand...





No need to start over. Just use the wipe on, wipe off method (as outlined) from here on in. If you haven't gotten the haze yet, then you *should* be ok. No worries...
 
TOGWT said:
[B

Apply AIO to a prepped surface, then apply SG x 1 (Bill North method, wipe-on, wipe-off) wait one hour apply SG x 2 ….etc, etc



[/B]
Click to expand...





If I understood your post correctly, you are saying that I recommend waiting only 1 hour between coats of SG????



If I misunderstood, my apologies. :)



If I didn't misunderstand, please re-read my posts. I never said it was ok to apply coats of SG one hour apart. That is very very BAD!!!!!!!!!



SG requires no dry time (time btwn application and buffing) and a 24 (TWENTY FOUR) hour cure time (time between actual coats). The SG does need 24 hrs to cure. Otherwise you are not really layering it. You are just softening and re-buffing the initial layer with every new coat. Not very productive IMHO.



Take it easy. :)
 
spetulla said:
can someone sum up the application process in one finalized step process for those of us who are slightly confused.



this is how im seeing it:



1. Spray SG on a dry MF towel

2. Apply thin layer

3. Wipe off with a seprate dry towel

4. Repeat on whole car

5. Wait 24 hours.

6. Repeat



That is it, correct?
Click to expand...



OK. THIS is what you should do!!! :)



1. Apply SG on a dry terry covered foam applicator. I find terry spreads better than just foam, and it supposedly uses less than MF apps. Don't use an actual towel. You'll waste product.



2. what you said



3, 4, 5, 6, all what you said. Very good!! You were close!! Now get to it!!! :xyxthumbs
 
I don't worry about applying thin coats. I dampen my applicator with Sonus, apply liberaly over my truck and windows (not windshield) wait about an hour, then buff off with Sonus.



I'm sure this method is more expensive, but I only break out the K twins twice a year. This method ensures complete coverage and it's a breeze to apply and remove.
 
Heheh, where once the Jimwh method was all the buzz, now it's the BillNorth way! :D :xyxthumbs



I'm going to have to wait until spring to try this out. I haven't done much detailing at all since the temperature started dipping. :(
 
Quote: If I understood your post correctly, you are saying that I recommend waiting only 1 hour between coats of SG????



~One man’s opinion~

“Apply AIO to a prepped surface, then apply SG x 1 (Bill North method, wipe-on, wipe-off) wait one hour apply SG x 2 ….etc, etcâ€�



I quoted Bill North as (“Wipe-on, wipe-off� close parenthesise. I find that allowing one hour between coats makes it easier to buff-off; as to whether applying multi-coats to avoid softening the initial layer I’d respectfully leave to a chemist as I’ve no idea of the chemical make-up or reaction of Acrylic’s. This was not meant in any way as a slight to your method of application. I’m a firm believer in “Find a product / method of application that works for you and use it�





Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/



justadumbarchitect
 
Where did the instructions for the, "Wait 24 hours before applying subsequent layers of SG", come from? Did the manufacturer pass this rule of thumb along.



:cool: Inquiring minds want to know. :cool:
 
is this the right applicator?



waxr2.jpg
 
I'm rather curious about it myself. From doing acrylic floor waxes long ago there was never a 24 hour cure for any of them, no matter how thick it was glopped on.



I misunderstood Bill and thought he was saying to apply the second coat right after the first, and that's what I did. When applied my two coats of SG about 6 weeks ago for the first time, I went panel by panel, wipe on, wipe off. It very much dried up hard in that time. I immediately followed with a second coat, and it was definately a second coat over the top of the first. There was no disolving of the first coat and the resulting mess that would happen in that case. It went on just fine.



A bit of a clue may be the word "buffing". There is no buffing of an acrylic wax. If there is, it wasn't put on right. I wiped mine down, but except for a few isolated spots where I'd gotten a streak in it from lint or such there was nothing there and nothing on the rag. My wipedown rag looked nearly as spotless after doing this as when I started.



HellrotCi said:
Where did the instructions for the, "Wait 24 hours before applying subsequent layers of SG", come from? Did the manufacturer pass this rule of thumb along.



:cool: Inquiring minds want to know. :cool:
Click to expand...
 
TOGWT said:
Quote: If I understood your post correctly, you are saying that I recommend waiting only 1 hour between coats of SG????



~One man’s opinion~

“Apply AIO to a prepped surface, then apply SG x 1 (Bill North method, wipe-on, wipe-off) wait one hour apply SG x 2 ….etc, etcâ€�



I quoted Bill North as (“Wipe-on, wipe-off� close parenthesise. I find that allowing one hour between coats makes it easier to buff-off; as to whether applying multi-coats to avoid softening the initial layer I’d respectfully leave to a chemist as I’ve no idea of the chemical make-up or reaction of Acrylic’s. This was not meant in any way as a slight to your method of application. I’m a firm believer in “Find a product / method of application that works for you and use it�





Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/



justadumbarchitect
Click to expand...



TOGWT,



My apologies, it appears that I did in fact misunderstand your initial post. I never took it as a slight. I just want to make sure I am clear in how I am communicating my recommended techinque. It appears I am being clear, since you did in fact understand.



I agree, we should find a product and a method that works best for us. I'm not trying to force my technique on ppl, nor do I think it is the ONLY way to apply, and remove SG. Nor do I consider myself an expert. Frankly, I learn something new everyday, and that is a good thing.



To the entire forum,



My klasse philosophy is based on my own personal experience, the experience of others, and most importantly, it is based on the advice and information given to autopia members by a former member of this forum who does in fact happen to be a paint chemist. He's been working in the field of automotive

paints for the last, I believe, over 20 years. He knows what he is talking about.



Many members of Autopia came to the "24 hour cure time conclusion" based on the information and findings of this member, as well as from our own experiences. Applying additional coats prior to the 24hr wait time will dissolve the previous layer applied.



I myself can tell that the SG requires a cure time because my SG looks a little cloudy after I buff off the residue. It's not very noticeable, but if I look carefully, I CAN see it. Funny enough, the cloudyness is usually gone the next day. THAT does in fact tell me something.



I'm not going to go on and on. As TOGWT said, we all have to do what works best for us.



I can only offer my insight.



"You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink"



Bill.
 
HellrotCi said:
Where did the instructions for the, "Wait 24 hours before applying subsequent layers of SG", come from? Did the manufacturer pass this rule of thumb along.



:cool: Inquiring minds want to know. :cool:
Click to expand...



See my post above this one.
 
foxtrapper said:
I'm rather curious about it myself. From doing acrylic floor waxes long ago there was never a 24 hour cure for any of them, no matter how thick it was glopped on.



I misunderstood Bill and thought he was saying to apply the second coat right after the first, and that's what I did. When applied my two coats of SG about 6 weeks ago for the first time, I went panel by panel, wipe on, wipe off. It very much dried up hard in that time. I immediately followed with a second coat, and it was definately a second coat over the top of the first. There was no disolving of the first coat and the resulting mess that would happen in that case. It went on just fine.



A bit of a clue may be the word "buffing". There is no buffing of an acrylic wax. If there is, it wasn't put on right. I wiped mine down, but except for a few isolated spots where I'd gotten a streak in it from lint or such there was nothing there and nothing on the rag. My wipedown rag looked nearly as spotless after doing this as when I started.
Click to expand...



I don't doubt your past experience with acrylic floor waxes, but I have to disagree with you about even insinuating that the amount you apply impacts cure time. You can apply as much product to a surface as you wish, but in the case of klasse, you will obviously need to wipe off /buff/remove (see below) the excess product. It's what is left that needs to cure. And no matter how much you 'glop' on, you will always have the same amount left after wiping/buffing/removing the excess. Your paint can only accept a certain amount of wax and sealant, that's why many manufactureres recommend using a product sparingly when applying, to avoid wasting excess product.



Can you pinpoint where exactly you misunderstood my initial post. I'd like to find the flaw and correct it for future readers. I strongly believe in my technique, as such I'd like to ensure my point gets accross clearly. :)



I disagree with you about the "buffing" part. But I think we are just wordsmithing now. Bottom line, when you apply klasse, there is some residue that needs to be removed. Similar to applying a carnuba wax. You have to wipe off the excess product/residue. Now whether we use the word 'wipe' or 'buff' or 'remove', IMHO makes no real difference. The fact remains, there is something there that needs to be taken off.



Again, JMHO. :cool:
 
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