Klasse AIO - Hand or machine?
- Thread starter Xcessiv
- Start date
imported_icall
New member
I've done it both ways and much prefer the PC for AIO application. I got better results using the PC.
SG is easier and more cost effective by hand. I wipe on/wipe off. Usually 3-4 coats. This usually lasts about 6 months, 8 if I push it on a 335i. Water just sheets off.
I wouldn't do just AIO. SG is just so easy to apply and remove. Its appication is extremely quick, not worth skipping IMO.
BTW, AIO works awesome on rims. I neglected my rims something fierce. I took a 4 inch pad on the PC with some AIO, and they look brand new.
SG is easier and more cost effective by hand. I wipe on/wipe off. Usually 3-4 coats. This usually lasts about 6 months, 8 if I push it on a 335i. Water just sheets off.
I wouldn't do just AIO. SG is just so easy to apply and remove. Its appication is extremely quick, not worth skipping IMO.
BTW, AIO works awesome on rims. I neglected my rims something fierce. I took a 4 inch pad on the PC with some AIO, and they look brand new.
Accumulator
Well-known member
I too use it both ways but prefer to let the machine do the work.
Holden_C04
New member
There is no benefit to applying KAIO by hand. Applying with PC gives you the benefit of a thinner application, and without stressing your hands.
RitcheyRch
New member
Had my car detailed receently and the detailer used AIO and SG. How long should I want before applying another coat of SG? Any other prep before adding the additional coat?
Accumulator
Well-known member
RitcheyRch said:
You only need to wait 24 hours between coats (if that long). If there's any chance the paint isn't 100% clean after the wash I'd do a *light, gentle* claying with something like Sonus green.
FWIW, I shoot for at least 4 coats and preferably 6.
Cleaning Fool
New member
Give me a machine over hand everytime
GeorgesBlazah
New member
Im with the others, the machine is tehre to make you life easier.(most of the time 
)
)RitcheyRch
New member
Thanks for the info. Looks like might try and add another coat over the weekend.
Accumulator said:
Thank you for the replies! More questions...
1) Does KSG react well over Poli-Seal, even if Poli-Seal contains some Karnauba?
2) What would give the best looking result?
a) Nanopolish + KAIO + KSG
b) Poli-Seal + KSG
3) In question 2), does a) justify the large price difference over b)?
4) How durable are the fillers in KAIO + KSG? I'm not talking about how durable is the protection, but the fillers hiding light swirls.
5) What has more cutting power between Nanopolish and Poli-Seal?
Thank you.
Yan
1) Does KSG react well over Poli-Seal, even if Poli-Seal contains some Karnauba?
2) What would give the best looking result?
a) Nanopolish + KAIO + KSG
b) Poli-Seal + KSG
3) In question 2), does a) justify the large price difference over b)?
4) How durable are the fillers in KAIO + KSG? I'm not talking about how durable is the protection, but the fillers hiding light swirls.
5) What has more cutting power between Nanopolish and Poli-Seal?
Thank you.
Yan
Accumulator
Well-known member
I can't be too helpful as I don't use a lot of the products discussed below, but anyhow...
Beats me, I've never used PolySeal nor have I ever applied KSG without putting it over KAIO.
I'd be pretty surprised if KSG worked as well over Poli-Seal as it does over KAIO though.
Beats me, not having used the Poli-Seal...but I'd be pretty surprised if "a)" weren't the better one.
Gotta figure out if the Poli-Seal will work as a base for KSG or it's a moot point.
The Klasse twins *DO NOT* do any filling/concealing. Rather, they tend to make any marring quite obvious. Because of this, I only use them on finishes that are basically perfect (and that will stay that way). If you have any flaws I'd forget about the Klasse twins and go with something different.
Beats me :nixweiss
Xcessiv said:
Beats me, I've never used PolySeal nor have I ever applied KSG without putting it over KAIO.
I'd be pretty surprised if KSG worked as well over Poli-Seal as it does over KAIO though.
Beats me, not having used the Poli-Seal...but I'd be pretty surprised if "a)" weren't the better one.
Gotta figure out if the Poli-Seal will work as a base for KSG or it's a moot point.
The Klasse twins *DO NOT* do any filling/concealing. Rather, they tend to make any marring quite obvious. Because of this, I only use them on finishes that are basically perfect (and that will stay that way). If you have any flaws I'd forget about the Klasse twins and go with something different.
Beats me :nixweiss
What kind of pad would you use for applying KAIO to a car that has been polished recently? I'm trying to strip any remaining sealant off the car before applying KAIO followed by several coats of KSG.
Also, should I reapply a little bit of KAIO to the pad after doing each section or will one application be sufficient for the whole car?
Also, should I reapply a little bit of KAIO to the pad after doing each section or will one application be sufficient for the whole car?
Accumulator
Well-known member
xxplosive said:What kind of pad would you use for applying KAIO to a car that has been polished recently? I'm trying to strip any remaining sealant off the car before applying KAIO followed by several coats of KSG...[/quote]
Use a pan with no cut of its own. I use mild polishing pads, almost always the ones from Griot's (that never get much mention here). Plenty of people use finishing pads but they're a little too tight (i.e., they have tiny pores) for me.
Use just enough AIO to keep the (previously dampened with water) pad lubricated with product. DON'T USE TOO MUCH and DON'T WORK IT TOO LONG. I'd use enough AIO for one panel and then check the pad (make sure it doesn't get loaded with product or with anthing it cleans off the paint) and reapply AIO as needed.
I'd *NEVER* put enough of *anything* on a pad to do a whole car, that' be way too much product for the first few panels. Use only as much as necessary and add more as needed.
Heh heh, it probably sounds like I'm yelling at you, but I really don't want you to make a very easy process turn out to be a very *hard* one
imported_RZJZA80
New member
With a PC at speed 4, 4" black LC pad, I use 2 small drops on either side of the pad, it goes a long long way.
IMO, KAIO is best applied by PC because you get the full benefit of it's defect removal this way without rubbing hard with an applicator pad (which may mar the paint). The defects I mean are water spots, bird etchings, leftover polish residue, etc.
IMO, KAIO is best applied by PC because you get the full benefit of it's defect removal this way without rubbing hard with an applicator pad (which may mar the paint). The defects I mean are water spots, bird etchings, leftover polish residue, etc.