Klasse AIO - Hand or machine?

eyecandy- Just use enough to properly prime the pad with it. That could be who-knows-how-many drops of who-knows-how-much :nixweiss



First you dampen the pad with water, then squeeze out the excess. Then try to distribute the KAIO fairly evenly to where you have it all over the pad but not so much that you're filling up the pad's pores.



I don't really do "drops" as I want it evenly distributed througout the pad.



Heh heh, I dunno if that was helpful or not, but I'm never very good at Qs like these...I find what works pretty easily and then I just do it without giving it much conscious thought, and I think most people end up doing it that way.



This isn't a biggie...just don't use a *LOT* of KAIO and don't work it too long, to where it flashes on you. I find it much easier to use when I buff it off while it's still just a little wet.
 
I just used kaio on my new 09 ridgeline with my also new pc. I used a lc white 6" pad. I used 4-5 tiny drops on the outside of the pad to do a 3X3' square panel & it worked perfectly.
 
I don't prime the pad or dampen it or anything. I do either two small drops, smaller than a dime, or a very thin line in the middle of the pad, both are fine for me.
 
For you guys apply the KAIO using machine, do you then remove it with machine also? Do you use a MF bonnet to remove.



A related question. I used KAIO and then SG and then collonite on my car. I only did one coat of SG.....now I want to do some more coats. How should I approach that? KAIO again, then SG? I suspect I cant SG over the Collonite.



And if I want to do multiple coats of SG, and the car isnt garaged in between coats, what do you do to prep the car for the subsequent coats of SG? My problem is I wont have time to do SG every 24 hrs for 5 days in a row. My truck is an F350 long bed crew cab, so it takes some time to even do one coat.
 
superduty said:
For you guys apply the KAIO using machine, do you then remove it with machine also? Do you use a MF bonnet to remove...
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I find KAIO residue a bit "heavy" for machine removal, but maybe that's just because I'm a bit liberal about how much I use compared to other products.



More significantly, I don't like the idea of the bonnets "working" all the potentially nasty [stuff] the KAIO might've cleaned out of the paint. I only do the removal-by-machine thing with LSPs.



A related question. I used KAIO and then SG and then collonite on my car. I only did one coat of SG.....now I want to do some more coats. How should I approach that? KAIO again, then SG? I suspect I cant SG over the Collonite.
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Right. You need to clean off the Collinite before you can add more KSG. I myself would just wait until it needs redone. What's your motivation for wanting to add more KSG at this point?



FWIW, I see KSG and Collinite as kinda an either/or choice. There are only a few rare situations where I'd want to use them both on the same vehicle.



And if I want to do multiple coats of SG, and the car isnt garaged in between coats, what do you do to prep the car for the subsequent coats of SG? My problem is I wont have time to do SG every 24 hrs for 5 days in a row. My truck is an F350 long bed crew cab, so it takes some time to even do one coat.
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I'd clean it thoroughly because otherwise you're likely to rub in some dirt and cause marring.



In your situation, I'd just apply the KSG after each of a series of regularly scheduled washes. If that means once a week, and it thus takes 5-6 weeks to get all the layers on there, it'll still work out just fine. I've done that when I couldn't keep the vehicle off the road for a long time.
 
Accumulator, thanks for the reply. I used the collonite as I thought I read that it provided better overall protection when compared to the SG. kind of a final coat thing??? If it doesn't I will stick with the SG only.



What about one of the Werkstadt products on top of the SG?
 
superduty said:
Accumulator, thanks for the reply. I used the collonite as I thought I read that it provided better overall protection when compared to the SG. kind of a final coat thing??? If it doesn't I will stick with the SG only...
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While I've often found Collinite to be great with regard to protectin (esp. against bird bombs and bugs), KSG *heavily layered* has simply *never* disappointed me in that regard. No etching, no issues of any kind. I don't always like the *look* of KSG, at least on certain paints, but with six layers on my minivan I simply never have to give any thought to whether it's protected. Even the washer fluid I use generously in the winter never causes and problems.



IMO/IME there's simply no need to top KSG with anything unless you're trying to alter the look. And I like being able to do a gentle claying (e.g., with Sonus green) and just add more KSG if it's necessary.



I use KSG on one dog-hauler and 476S on the other. The KSG *probably* provides better protection and durability, but it's so close that I just go by what looks best to me.

What about one of the Werkstadt products on top of the SG?
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Sorry, no experience with them :nixweiss
 
Accumulator - do you at some point, say once a year or something, go back and KAIO the whole vehicle and start over? Or do you simply add SG after every wash?
 
superduty said:
Accumulator - do you at some point, say once a year or something, go back and KAIO the whole vehicle and start over? Or do you simply add SG after every wash?
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Once I get the initial six layers on it, I seldom bother refreshing it with any more KSG until the beading changes to sheeting, and that takes a long, long time.



WHen the beading *does* change to sheeting, I evaluate it and see if it needs polished or whether I can just get by with more KSG. If the latter, I clay with Sonus green before doing the additional KSG.



The six layers last me well over a year (yeah, really) and after that long I expect to find some marring that'll need polished out anyhow. Even if it doesn't have any RIDS, a light burnishing/jeweling will spruce it up a bit, so I do that instead of just using the KAIO.



Summary: I either clay with Sonus green and re-KSG or I repolish and *then* do the KAIO and layering of KSG. Just depends on the paint's condition.



But if the beading has changed to sheeting, and I don't want to redo the whole job, then yeah, I'll clay with Sonus green and apply more KSG.
 
Accumulator said:
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First you dampen the pad with water, then squeeze out the excess. Then try to distribute the KAIO fairly evenly to where you have it all over the pad but not so much that you're filling up the pad's pores.



I don't really do "drops" as I want it evenly distributed througout the pad.



Heh heh, I dunno if that was helpful or not, but I'm never very good at Qs like these...I find what works pretty easily and then I just do it without giving it much conscious thought, and I think most people end up doing it that way.



This isn't a biggie...just don't use a *LOT* of KAIO and don't work it too long, to where it flashes on you. I find it much easier to use when I buff it off while it's still just a little wet.
Click to expand...



Accumulator and to anyone,



Will applying KAIO via a dampened/primed pad dilute the KAIO so that it doesn't pop as much say as compared to a non water-dampened, solely KAIO application?



Every time I apply KAIO via machine, whether I applysparingly or liberally, the KAIO flashes real quick for me and I can hardly cover a large area :doh: and I apply it on cool paint in a shady area... not sure what to do...:sadwavey:
 
Whenever I applied AIO by PC I used a black LC finishing pad. Or, whatever is the least to second least aggressive pad ( in terms of color) these days. Maybe I slightly spritzed the pad with QD just to lube it a bit and slowly worked it on over the paint. I'd say with the PC, the speed doesn't need to more than 3 because we don't need speed and friction, just effective application. I believe the higher number speeds probably flash off the product too quickly and contribute to it being difficult to remove.



As for hand, I'd use a microfiber applicator slightly dampened with QD and spread the AIO evenly and thoroughly over the finish. The goal is to get get even coverage, not to use pressure to polish with this product when using it as a next-to-last-step product.



Remember, just spritzing the machine pad or hand applicator. Diluting the product shouldn't be an issue when doing it this way. When I use AIO for spot cleaning, I don't use a lubricating spray at all.
 
Bill D said:
Whenever I applied AIO by PC I used a black LC finishing pad. Or, whatever is the least to second least aggressive pad ( in terms of color) these days. Maybe I slightly spritzed the pad with QD just to lube it a bit and slowly worked it on over the paint. I'd say with the PC, the speed doesn't need to more than 3 because we don't need speed and friction, just effective application. I believe the higher number speeds probably flash off the product too quickly and contribute to it being difficult to remove.



As for hand, I'd use a microfiber applicator slightly dampened with QD and spread the AIO evenly and thoroughly over the finish. The goal is to get get even coverage, not to use pressure to polish with this product when using it as a next-to-last-step product.





Remember, just spritzing the machine pad or hand applicator. Diluting the product shouldn't be an issue when doing it this way. When I use AIO for spot cleaning, I don't use a lubricating spray at all.
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Thanks for the insight Bill, I'm using a Flex 3401 if that helps..
 
mystickid said:
Thanks for the insight Bill, I'm using a Flex 3401 if that helps..
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I'm assuming the same principles apply to the Flex but that's all I can say since I don't have one. Perhaps someone who does can chime in here.
 
mystickid said:
Accumulator and to anyone,



Will applying KAIO via a dampened/primed pad dilute the KAIO so that it doesn't pop as much say as compared to a non water-dampened, solely KAIO application?
Click to expand...



As Bill D noted, you merely mist/slightly dampen the pad, you don't really get it so wet that diluting the KAIO oughta be an issue.



Every time I apply KAIO via machine, whether I applysparingly or liberally, the KAIO flashes real quick for me and I can hardly cover a large area :doh: and I apply it on cool paint in a shady area... not sure what to do...:sadwavey:
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I too have had issues when doing KAIO by machine, it seems to flash/dry too fast and to get so overworked that it's a PIA to buff off...well, unless I do it just right. I can't get it to work right via Cyclo no matter what, even though others say it works fine.



Via PC, I use speed 4 and an orange Griot's polishing pad (not somebody else's orange pad, that's for sure!), which I first dampen with water. Noting that I don't work on stupid-soft paints, the Griot's pad just works better for me with KAIO than a tighter finishing pad. I still work a pretty small area and I like to buff it off before it's completely dry. Yeah, I know, that compromises the KAIO's durability but I don't care as I top it anyhow.



And like Bill D, when doing spot-work with KAIO I don't do anything very special, just put a dab of it on a MF and rub it in, then buff it off.
 
Thanks Accumulator,



Yeah, I usually get this flahed off white cakey residue thats hard to buff off. I'll try the misting technique. Is there a certain QD that works better than others? How about Distilled water? Lastly, Do you go over the surface with only a single pass or do overlapping passes?
 
mystickid said:
Yeah, I usually get this flahed off white cakey residue thats hard to buff off. I'll try the misting technique. Is there a certain QD that works better than others? How about Distilled water? Lastly, Do you go over the surface with only a single pass or do overlapping passes?
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I just use distilled water, sometimes even just *tap* water (I know, I know, but I've never had any problems from that).



I treat the KAIO like a cleaner-wax, overlapping passes. For me the challenge seems to be not overworking it and/or letting it flash off (so it's different from a cleaner-wax in that regard).
 
Accumulator said:
I just use distilled water, sometimes even just *tap* water (I know, I know, but I've never had any problems from that).



I treat the KAIO like a cleaner-wax, overlapping passes. For me the challenge seems to be not overworking it and/or letting it flash off (so it's different from a cleaner-wax in that regard).
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Thanks Pal.
 
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