Wow, melting velcro and backing plates?! :soscared:
I have intentionally avoided posting information about this method because there are soooo many reasons this method works. I think it is best to give a few pointers now, because there is a lot of misinformation and confusion about the procedure. I d not want newbies to try this method before using what is normally recommended!! NEWBIES- this is NOT for you!!! Until the paper is released, stick with the manufacturers recommendations if at all possible (
with exception to the priming part- it helps every time I've tried it).
Luster... here you go!
While an increase in pressure is necessary, i
t is not the only factor that should be addressed when using the "method".
Proper priming of the pad is super important!
This one step will have more positive effect on polishing performance than anything else. Well, a clean pad is equally important.
Consistent pressure across the pad is key.
The pad should be rotating at all times. More speed is a good thing when heavy defect removal is the goal. This does not mean that slow rotation will not work. However- some pads rotate well while others do not. Oftentimes, if there is insufficient removal of defects even with a substantial amount of downward pressure, a swap of the pad to one that is more aggressive or smaller in diameter will work. The guys that are using smaller diameter pads to remove heavy defects are working smart- not hard.
After all the defects have been sufficiently removed, final polishing should be accomplished using the softest or mildest pad available, with a couple of caveats:
The pad must be able to accept firm pressure without marring the surface. If marring of the paint occurs, do a test spot by hand using a foam or microfiber applicator pad. Check your work. If the marring has been eliminated, the pad should be inspected for damage or contamination. If the pad is clean, it is likely that it is incompatible with the paint type when paired with the particular buffing liquid being used.
There is a lot of confusion pertaining to how much product should be used when using this "method".
In general, for
defect removal
First, thoroughly prime the pad as shown here:
http://www.autopia.org/forum/machine-polishing/116716-look-into-pad-priming.html
Add buffing liquid as needed, making sure to clean the pad prior to adding more buffing liquid. To properly clean the pad, lightly brush with a soft nylon bristles brush. Then use compressed air to remove stuck on debris, followed by a quick towel cleaning of the pad. To towel clean, hold a microfiber towel in one hand and press the pad into it while throttling the machine using the other hand for 3-5 seconds (or until the pad looks clean). For safety sake, a microfiber bonnet over a foam pad works great!
To hold the bonnet/pad combo, this type of applicator works great:
http://www.ferroind.com/pdfs/Ferro Industries, Inc Catalog.pdf (bottom of page 7, part number JPS-60)
For
final polishing, prime the finishing pad as previously discussed, and let the pad sit for a few minutes. This will allow the buffing liquid some time to permeate the pore structure of the pad. Prior to use, remove a majority of the buffing liquid utilizing the towel cleaning method previously discussed. This will eliminate clumps of abrasive material and remove excess product from the pore structure of the pad (this way no added product will make its way onto the surface of the pad). At this point, the pad face should have a very consistently applied amount of buffing liquid. Then, polish at a slow speed setting, making certain that the pad is able to rotate (it does not matter how many rotations there are, the goal is to minimize the chance of "flatspotting the pad). Add small amounts of product as needed. That's all.
).
Oh, and I think that caveat about the proper methods for newbies was a good idea. Best wishes regarding your ongoing efforts on the paper.