In praise of FK1000P

L

loco

New member
OK, I have yet to master the proper application technique for this sealant (for me, it's hard to remove), but I've gotta say the end results are terrific.



I have found that bugs and water spots are so much easier to wash off now. Bird bombs come completely off with just the hose. The beading is gorgeous and the paint is very very slick. I also like how it looks on my black car, which surprises me as I had heard it's better on lighter colors. No, it's not the deepest, wettest look, but it's not nearly as ''plastic-y'' as other sealants sometimes are. Very glossy, great reflections.



It's also excellent on wheels.



I plan to add another coat before winter really sets in. Maybe I will have better results with easier removal since I'll be implementing some suggestions I got in another thread.



Oh, and FK425 is an excellent QD as well! I'm anxious to try some other FK products such as the tire dressing. Thanks to all for all the positive comments about 1000P. You are the ones who convinced me to try it. :thx
 
Thanks mobenz!



I forgot to add that there is always a spot right behind my convertible top on the passenger side that gets some nasty water staining (I guess) whenever it has rained between washes. I used Zaino, UPGP, Souveran, 845 - none of them seemed to protect against this. I'd have to use AIO to remove it. But what do you know? That spot was perfectly clean when I washed my car today! I can only attribute it to 1000P - and yes, we did get some rain here this past week.



Good stuff!
 
this makes me happy that mine will be here thursday. the only thing im worried about is the ease of use, or lack there of
 
mobenzowner said:
Use it real thin and you will be fine. It's not that hard to use, just not as easy as some.
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is there a cure time to allow it to haze over or is this a W.O.W.O. application?
 
froboy272 said:
is there a cure time to allow it to haze over or is this a W.O.W.O. application?
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I have let it haze about 10 minutes and removed. Do 2 or 3 panels then go back and start removing at panel 1. It can be layered after only 20-30 minutes of cure time.
 
I never had a problem with it, as was said above, layer it thin, let it haze and buff off. I have only applied by hand, but you can try loading up your pad, scraping off the excess and applying by machine to get a thin, even coat.



Have you clayed and polished the paint recently. I find many products hard to spread and remove on cars that have not had a proper detail (i.e. just wash and wax vehicles that have never been clayed and polished).
 
audicoupej said:
I never had a problem with it, as was said above, layer it thin, let it haze and buff off. I have only applied by hand, but you can try loading up your pad, scraping off the excess and applying by machine to get a thin, even coat.



Have you clayed and polished the paint recently. I find many products hard to spread and remove on cars that have not had a proper detail (i.e. just wash and wax vehicles that have never been clayed and polished).
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In my case, yes, the car was completely detailed - clayed and polished - prior to using 1000P. I may have let it sit too long. I waited 20 minutes or so after applying and I was afraid that was too early, but it was already a bit difficult to remove. Can you remove as soon as it hazes or is there a need to wait a certain amount of time before removing?
 
Re cure time...there was a recent post indicating that "JJ", the owner/an exec with FK, had told the member that 1000P needs 24-48 hours of cure time (eg. dry) before another coat is applied.
 
I will add to the chorus: apply it thinly and evenly, and don't let it dry too long and you will not have any problems with removal.
 
As someone suggested, I do 1-2 panels at a time, thin, and remove. Basically apply for 10 minutes, wipe off, repeat.



Prior I also polished, then glazed with DWG, then the FK1000p. Waited a day, applied FK1000p again.
 
Thanks guys. I think I just let it sit too long. For some reason, I thought it needed to dry for 20-30 minutes before removing. Can't wait to add another layer and see how it goes this time!
 
STSInNYC said:
Re cure time...there was a recent post indicating that "JJ", the owner/an exec with FK, had told the member that 1000P needs 24-48 hours of cure time (eg. dry) before another coat is applied.
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Certainly not going to contradict you, but some of the experienced fk1000p users on this forum have stated a need of only 20 minutes of cure time before applying another coat. I have done this myself with no apparent problems, but no way to know if I got max value from second coat by not waiting longer?
 
I found that even after a ~24 hour wait, I had to be a littel careful to avoid an apparent solvent-effect, which I interpreted as detrimental to layering.



Right off hand, a few months after the fact, I can't recall/explain what made me think that something was going haywire with my layering efforts, but I *did* absolutely get that impression at the time.



VERY gentle application seemed to be the answer, but having heard both sides of the how-long-to-wait debate I decided to wait as long as I do with KSG.



OTOH, I've tried waiting short periods when applying to wheels, and I never noticed any problems from doing that. But doing that, I never got the sort of durability on my wheels that layered (with ~24 hour waiting) KSG gives me either.



Funny that people are thinking that waiting to buff off the residue makes things *harder* :think: I'd do the whole Yukon XLD before buffing any of it off (black plastic trim excepted) and I never noticed any problems. If anything, I like to wait *longer* to buff off any sealant (except for when I'm using it on trim).
 
Similar to Accumulator's observation, I have no problems with a couple layers back to back. However, I see better durability with applications that are spaced a wash apart as opposed to three consecutive applications.



**Thee most important tip with 1000P is to load the applicator JUST right and apply THIN. Let dry and cure until it passes the swipe test with ease. Apply two super thin coats, a faint trace is enough. Buffs off like butter and doesn't stain trim.
 
Yeah, it's hard for me to verbalize...but it's like trying to very gently wipe the subsequent layers on top of the existing ones. JUST ENOUGH contact to transfer some product to the surface. And properly priming/loading the applicator seems critical for this.



Between LSP applications like this and the KBM polishing, maybe the importance of putting the product on the pad properly will start getting its fair share of attention.



Yeah#2, trim staining withFK1000P seems to result mostly from excessive product getting built up in the texture of the trim. This can get to be a little of an issue when trying to layer heavily too, as it seems more likely to happen after a few layers than it did with the first couple (same application technique). Perhaps its from a slight build up of unbuffed product, just enough that you don't notice it until it gets severe enough to be a (hopefully minor) issue.
 
Adding my opinion:



Apply the first coat with a no bite pad using a DA will help get it thin, in addition the mild heat seems to help it bond to the paint bettter.



I have NEVER had a problem buffing off 1000P, in fact I have missed spots and found them 12 hrs later and they still removed easily. Temps in the 70's not in direct sunlight.



I have found that waiting a day to apply another coat helps, it really helps if the car is exposed to sunlight during that time vs garaged. I dont have direct test results for this just my experiences. Seems that the solvents off gas faster and cross linking better.



3 coats for the winter is ideal. Here in Utah I don't get many days I can personally wash my cars so I have to use touchless systems. These chemicals are typically much harsher and 1000P seems to reduce in time, but it lasts the 5 months I need it to. I'm sure it would last longer if I did not use the touchless systems chemicals.



Cheers,

GREG
 
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