In praise of FK1000P

I think the problem comes in when the FK1000p is left to cure for too long. I'll agree with the 10 min rule. Beyond that it can be far more challenging.



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I'll also agree with Accumulator on waiting 12 or 24 hours prior to any subsequent layers.



I'm coming right up to the 6 month mark with my daily driver. The product has held up well, paint still looks great. However, I am starting to get some contaminant bonding that doesn't simply wash off. Well, it's fall time and the car is due :werd:



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As I mentioned in another thread, I've never had problems removing 1000p haze until a couple days ago. Until then, I had always used a DA buffer an no bite pad for application of *the first coat*. I did the first coat by hand the other day, and had a seriously tough time removing the haze, especially where it was a bit thick. I don't wait any set amount of time prior to removal, I go by the swipe test. In cooler conditions, I've had to wait hours before removal, with no problems.



Applying the first coat with a DA definitely helps make haze removal easier. And as a lot of other guys have said, subsequent layers shoula be applied as *gently* as possible, by hand.



For a great demo of the solvent effect Accumulator talked about, try this... Apply a coat of 1000p to the outside of your rear windshield, let it cure, then remove the haze. Unload the pad of product by applying it some where til it leaves no residue. Now take tha same pad and rub gently on the glass where the previously applied 1000p is. You'll see (and feel) the pad lift the product up and re-deposit it. Now if you were actually using a pad loaded with product (putting on a second coat) this effect would be harder to catch. But try this quick experiment, and you'll see how easy it really is to disturb the base coat unless you are very gentle when applying added layers.
 
Thanks for the info, SuperBee! Don't take this the wrong way, but it kinda makes me feel better to read that you had a problem with 1000P recently. LOL! I was feeling a bit lonely over here. :)
 
SuperBee364 said:
Now take tha same pad and rub gently on the glass where the previosly applied 1000p is. You'll see (and feel) the pad lift the product up and re-deposit it. Now if you were actually using a pad loaded with product (putting on a second coat) this effect would be harder to catch. But try this quick experiment, and you'll see how easy it really is to disturb the base coat unless you are very gentle when applying added layers.
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Hmmmm. Food for thought. Is this a risk even after waiting 24 hours, or waiting a week or more?



Does this happen with other products?



I had a similar experience with Klasse last week, when I washed the car and detailed it with Sonus Acrylic Spritz. Immediately afterward, I tried to apply a layer of polycharged Klasse Sealant Glaze, and it really felt as if the applicator was removing product, almost as if the Spritz either didn't fully dry (it was getting chilly last weekend) or that it started to dissove one of the previous coats of SG and/or Sonus that I had laid on a week earlier.



Generally, I find the polycharged Klasse REALLY easy to use, even after detailing with the Spritz. This was the first time I've had issue, perhaps due to cold weather...
 
I started using 1000p on my exterior glass, works very well. I've never had an issue removing 1000P and I've let it sit 30 minuts or longer several times, although I always use my PC and white 4 inch pad to apply, making sure I spread it thin and even.
 
loco said:
Thanks for the info, SuperBee! Don't take this the wrong way, but it kinda makes me feel better to read that you had a problem with 1000P recently. LOL! I was feeling a bit lonely over here. :)
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I hear ya, man.. I hate it when it seems like I'm the only one having problems with a certain product, and that happens all the time.



khjr said:
Hmmmm. Food for thought. Is this a risk even after waiting 24 hours, or waiting a week or more?



Does this happen with other products?



I had a similar experience with Klasse last week, when I washed the car and detailed it with Sonus Acrylic Spritz. Immediately afterward, I tried to apply a layer of polycharged Klasse Sealant Glaze, and it really felt as if the applicator was removing product, almost as if the Spritz either didn't fully dry (it was getting chilly last weekend) or that it started to dissove one of the previous coats of SG and/or Sonus that I had laid on a week earlier.



Generally, I find the polycharged Klasse REALLY easy to use, even after detailing with the Spritz. This was the first time I've had issue, perhaps due to cold weather...
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IMO, yeah, it's a concern no matter how long you wait, really. The solvents that are in your LSP are there because they are *solvents*, and keep the LSP from getting hard. They will also turn your hard LSP back into it's soft, squishy form if they get a good chance to do so, especially pure 'nubas. If a chemical is a solvent to a wax one time, it'll be a solvent to that wax over and over again. Some sealants do seem to actually "cure", though, in a way that is *similar* (but not the same) as epoxy; once they cure, it's really hard to find a solvent that will then work on them.



It seems like some LSP's are more susceptible to re-exposure to solvents than others.... a good example of a susceptible LSP is 1000P, and a less susceptible would be Collinite 476... once that stuff has hardened, even it's own solvents aren't particularly good at removing it (don't ask me how I know that ;) ). Regardless, I think it's good practice to always use minimal pressure when applying second and subsequent coats of whatever LSP you're using, and it certainly can't hurt to wait as long as you can between applications.
 
SuperBee364 said:
..For a great demo of the solvent effect, try this... quick experiment, and you'll see how easy it really is to disturb the base coat unless you are very gentle when applying added layers.
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Good thinking!



It seems like some LSP's are more susceptible to re-exposure to solvents than others.... a less susceptible would be Collinite 476... once that stuff has hardened, even it's own solvents aren't particularly good at removing it
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Now if I could just figure out what causes the occasional pseudo-hologram/solvent effect with 476S :think: :confused: When that happens it's *SUCH* a PIA to resolve...topping with 845 seems to be the quickest/simplest solution.



When it *does NOT* happen, yeah, cured 476S is *cured* but then it does.... :nixweiss
 
Yeah, that 476 is some strange stuff. The pseudo grams drive me bonkers, but like you, I've found a coat of IW takes care of it no problem.
 
I think you can order from Autogeek now. You can also telephone Finish Kare and order from them directly.
 
Just wanted to update this since I finally got a chance to add that second layer of 1000P to my car today. Thanks to all your tips and advice, I believe I've finally figured this product out!



I applied a very thin layer and just did not wait nearly as long to wipe it off. It's pretty cool and dry here today and the 1000P started hazing up after only a minute or two. So, I did a panel, waited just a minute or so 'til it just began to haze, and wiped it off. No problems removing it at all!



I love this stuff and now that I have my application technique down, it's a huge relief. Thanks to everyone for the help!
 
SuperBee364 said:
It seems like some LSP's are more susceptible to re-exposure to solvents than others.... a good example of a susceptible LSP is 1000P, and a less susceptible would be Collinite 476... once that stuff has hardened, even it's own solvents aren't particularly good at removing it (don't ask me how I know that ;) ). Regardless, I think it's good practice to always use minimal pressure when applying second and subsequent coats of whatever LSP you're using, and it certainly can't hurt to wait as long as you can between applications.
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Slightly off the main topic but I just have to ask. Would this mean that a paste have less solvents than a liquid making it more suited for laering? Still would have to be gentle during the subsequent applications.
 
Accumulator said:
loco- You might like it even better when you subsequently wash the car, good dirt-shedding.
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Oh yes, that's what I love about it! And why I was so determined to learn how to apply it without having to chisel if off! :) It really does a great job of keeping anything from sticking.
 
RdRover said:
Slightly off the main topic but I just have to ask. Would this mean that a paste have less solvents than a liquid making it more suited for laering? Still would have to be gentle during the subsequent applications.
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I don't believe so, no. High or low viscosity doesn't necessarily have any correlation to the amount or type of solvents used.



My Vintage is a solid wax, and it has a *huge* amount of (Zymol loves this part...) "Natural" solvents in it. I have used Vintage to remove old, dried on IW and even 476. Vintage is also a great bug and tar remover. Tad expensive, though. :) Vintage has to have a ton of high powered (albeit "natural" :rolleyes: ) solvents in it to keep it's high amount of carnauba from turning rock solid.



Moral of the story: you can't judge solvent content or harshness based on the viscosity of the product.
 
SuperBee364 said:
... My Vintage is a solid wax,.. I have used Vintage to remove old, dried on IW and even 476. Vintage is also a great bug and tar remover..
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Heh heh...[insert quip about "straingt waxes"/"cleaners" and comments about spit-shining here ;) ]...
 
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