I really, REALLY wanted to like the 1Z High Gloss Polish...



SuperBee364 said:
Paris Hilton has a longer working time than this stuff.
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rofl.gif










 
Heh heh, this is another thread whose tone has varied while I was out of town :D



Yeah, 1Z polishes generally work best at low rpms, it's one of the things I like about 'em. I'll be looking forward to hearing how the HGP works the next time around.
 
I used it on some parts of the Mitsubishi EVO that i just completed. Worked very well and gave outstanding results. I guess working it at the low rpm's is the way to go.
 
MrAP said:
Bence, thanks for your reply.



What speed/OPM is recommended for 1Z polishes? (1Z's instructions for the Pro line are in RPM's only).



How does the dusting of 1Z compare to Menzerna?
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MrAP, start with the lowest setting on your rotary to spread, then make 2-3 "passes" (as complete left-right, up-down coverage of the working area - this is another context where one "pass" fits best in a different interpretation).

Kick the RPMs to 1000-1200 and do further 2-3 "passes". At this point I set my machine to 1500 and do 8-10 passes, or until the product disappears. Then refine it with 2-3 slow passes. If the product starts to dust, immediately lower your RPMs and do a careful refining pass, then remove.



One thing is very important with the 1Z polishes - dosage. The needed amounts are incredibly small. If you're using 2 pea sized drops from a different manufacture, use just 1 drop. If you prime your pad normally with 4-5 pea sized drops, then prime with 1.5-3 dots - thereby you can control the dusting very well. With these amounts, dusting will be kept minimal. Still, the pad will require more frequent cleaning than usual, but the finish and the color richness is worth it.



DA appliaction: spread at speed 3, do 3-5 passes. Kick it up to max, and do 8-10 again. There is no need to do a refining step, especially when you work with a short throw, high speed machine.
 
I really like HGP. I just used it on my M3 and thought it gave outstanding results. I used it via udm on a polishing pad. Used it on speed 5/5.5, applying some pressure for the first couple passes, then almost no pressure at all for the final pass. Removal really wasnt tough either honestly. I dunno, I like this stuff :)
 
Bence said:
MrAP, start with the lowest setting on your rotary to spread, then make 2-3 "passes" (as complete left-right, up-down coverage of the working area - this is another context where one "pass" fits best in a different interpretation).

Kick the RPMs to 1000-1200 and do further 2-3 "passes". At this point I set my machine to 1500 and do 8-10 passes, or until the product disappears. Then refine it with 2-3 slow passes. If the product starts to dust, immediately lower your RPMs and do a careful refining pass, then remove.



One thing is very important with the 1Z polishes - dosage. The needed amounts are incredibly small. If you're using 2 pea sized drops from a different manufacture, use just 1 drop. If you prime your pad normally with 4-5 pea sized drops, then prime with 1.5-3 dots - thereby you can control the dusting very well. With these amounts, dusting will be kept minimal. Still, the pad will require more frequent cleaning than usual, but the finish and the color richness is worth it.



DA appliaction: spread at speed 3, do 3-5 passes. Kick it up to max, and do 8-10 again. There is no need to do a refining step, especially when you work with a short throw, high speed machine.
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Bence, that was almost exactly how i was working it. I never made it to anywhere near 8-10 passes, though. More like about five and it was turning itself into cement.



I still haven't had a chance to use it since that first MB we used it on, but it was definitely completely dry after a max of four passes and about 1400 rpm.
 
I had recieved some samples today from Mr.Ikon (thanks John) and will try them this weekend. I'll give my honest review after I get a chance to test on atleast 3 cars with all different paints.
 
Ryan, you're more than welcome. I just cant wait to see what kind of results you'll come up with.



If I had known you were gonna test it on more than one vehicle, I definitely would have found some bigger bottles.
 
SuperBee364 said:
Bence, that was almost exactly how i was working it. I never made it to anywhere near 8-10 passes, though. More like about five and it was turning itself into cement.



I still haven't had a chance to use it since that first MB we used it on, but it was definitely completely dry after a max of four passes and about 1400 rpm.
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Bee, if your description "turned into cement" was referring to a noticeable inclination to dusting and gumming up, then you are using too much. It may sound weird, but with 1Z, you should use one little drop for a working area. IPA precleaned surfaces help too. Always keep the polishes shaken to prevent the settling of the abrasives and/or the separation of the thickeners (usually bentonite clay).
 
mr.ikon said:
Ryan, you're more than welcome. I just cant wait to see what kind of results you'll come up with.



If I had known you were gonna test it on more than one vehicle, I definitely would have found some bigger bottles.
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I can squeeze 3 cars out of these bottles easy, maybe even more:getdown
 
Alright I tried the 1Z HGP and Intensive polish.



The HGP does dry up a bit even at lower rpm, and does not remove the marring left from 1ZIP. I will give a try with a couple more combos and see what happens.



Now the 1Z IP is aggresive and I love it a lot. It reminds me of Presta UCC. It is very gritty, but breaks down nice. It does leave hologramming, but all these types of gritty compounds do anyway. It has a great working time and leaves a very nice cut and give a great leveled gloss surface. The lemony pledge smell is not the greatest, but it is a keeper so far. It does need to be hit with a med. cut polish like SIP, but I am use to this method anyway.
 
I thought hologramming with the IP was just me and my technique, but it was because of the compounds grittyness like you said. It did have a nice cut, but finishing out with another polish cleaned it right up.



So, 1z IP is an awesome product to you. Now its just trying to find out the best way to work the HGP.
 
I am working with the both of them under my quad halogens and watching them closely on how they work, trying different techniques.



Yes, I liked the 1z ip a lot. It is a bit harsh, but if you work it right it will cut the surface to a nice crisp smooth gloss. This in the wrong hands via rotary can do some damage. I love the stuff personally. Nice alternative to 3M Extra cut. I love the fact that it does not cake or gum up. The only downfall is cleaning up the used abrasives without marring the finish. It works great between 1000-2000 rpm perfect.



The HGP is nothing speacial. It takes forever to remove marring and dries up to quick. This is in 40 degree damp weather too. I worked it at 1000 rpm for 5 minutes and still did not remove the marring. I tried it at 1500 rpm and it dried way to fast. Maybe on softer paint it might be ok, but on hard paint it is way too week.
 
I used HGP on a black Mitsu which was pretty soft. And sometimes i had trouble finishing out. Seriously, like sometimes it worked and sometimes it didnt.
 
IP or any product will not hologram if you work it down long enough

Heck I use PG with foamed wool and get it flawless

Mind you I finish at 600 rpm most of the time
 
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