I really, REALLY wanted to like the 1Z High Gloss Polish...

I've never noticed any filling properties from 106, even after IPA wipedown.

It's a shame that the einszett didn't work for you

The only thing I can suggest is to add some more parrafin white mineral oil and glycerin to the bottle or a 125ml sample so that the working time is longer.
 
Superbee, I was using the 1Z product on this Mitsubishi Evo and still am. Honestly, it gave me great results and sometimes it didnt. I dont know how to explain it. The first car that i tried it on, my car i was seeing amazing results. But this, sometimes it just doesnt want to cooperate.



I spoke to Grouse about this product, and he told me to achieve the longer working time is by polishing the product at such low rpms so the polish doesnt dry out. I feel your pain on this. At first i was so juiced that on the few panels i did on my very own car, and now its like ehh.



Hey, I'm sorry that the product doesnt stand to your liking. And its not quite up there anymore with me now. Sometimes i have to go back to my Hi Temp line and kinda finish some of the mistakes i made with the 1Z.



So after the completion of this Evo, I'm sitting this stuff on the shelf and gonna purchase some 106.
 
If you think that 106ff has a long working time, you should try 3M ultra fina. It does not have the bite of 106ff on the harder clears.
 
SuperBee - What speeds did you buff at? I was told that pretty much all of their products were designed to be worked beween 750-1000 RPMs or you'll have bad results? It's supposed to have more cut than SIP, finish better than 85RD and should be worked for ~ 5 minutes.
 
David Fermani said:
SuperBee - What speeds did you buff at? I was told that pretty much all of their products were designed to be worked beween 750-1000 RPMs or you'll have bad results? It's supposed to have more cut than SIP, finish better than 85RD and should be worked for ~ 5 minutes.
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This is what i was told to do. Sometimes I could bump it up to 11-1200 and come back down to 1k and get away with it. I guess i just need to work it out more. I'll come back after today with some before and afters with the Evo.



rydawg said:
I will have to try this stuff out when I get some samples. I am sure it just has a minor learning curve.
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I'll make sure to look for some bottles so you can try these out if you're still interested.
 
SuperBee364 said:
... but I don't.



In fact, I think the stuff really sucks. I bought it hoping that it would be a cheaper (like, half the price) alternative to 106ff. Wow, was I wrong. The stuff looks, smells, and feels very similar to 106. It's a bit runnier, but I was thinking, "cool, better lubes!". Wrong!



I loooove 106ff. You can work the stuff a long, long, looooong time, and it still removes easily. Yeah, you do need to do an IPA wipedown afterwards to get rid of it's (unintentional) hiding abilitites, but other than that, it is simply *the very finest* polish I've ever used. So the 1Z did have some big shoes to fill. Like, clown sized, even.



But this stuff didn't even come close. Yeah, the long working time of the Menz had me spoiled, but when I was dry buffing after working the 1Z for only 3 (!!) passes, I was really disappointed. And the stuff is sooooooooooooo very difficult to remove when you're done polishing. Even when I did manage to not overwork it, it was very difficult to remove. Maybe it was just the car I was doing, but I'm telling ya, this stuff was haaaaard to remove. Forum member Greg Nichols will back me up on this. We were working a MB S500 today when I experimented with the 1Z. Did I mention how bad I hate this stuff? Yes, it did leave a very, very nice finish afterward. 106ff-class finish. But I still hate it. Paris Hilton has a longer working time than this stuff.



I dunno. I'm sure there's gonna be some of you guys that like this stuff, and that's great. I'm sure you and your 1Z will be happy together. I just hope it doesn't dry up on you unexpectedly.



Ah well... it's only a quart, right? I mean, how long can *that* last? :)
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it needs to be worked at 750-1000 rpms. (the instructions on the bottle state 750-1000rpms) Use the same amount you would with 106, and you will get 5-7 min of work time. You need to work it 5-7 min to finish the polish break down fully.



If you bump the speed up higher than 1000 rpm the polish breaks down rapidly and dries. This is not a high rpm product. If it is hard to remove you did one of two things. You worked it to high of rpm and dried it out or you worked it less than the 5 min minimum. This wipes off as easy as fmj when done properly.



The idea behind the low rpm product is so that you only touch the panel with one product and pad, you only wipe it once and you go straight to sealant.



For example

Before HGP at 1000 rpms green lc pad 5-7 min work time

original.jpg




After hgp 1000 rpm 5-7 min work time green lc pad.



original.jpg
 
Well, it definitely looks like I wasn't working it correctly. I was between 1,200 and 1,400 rpms the whole time I was using it. Greg and I were running out of time on this car, so there were many areas we had to single step with finishing polishes (*he* was using 106ff.. spoiled brat that he is... :) ) so I had the rpms up a bit higher than what I normally would. You can get away with that with 106ff, in fact, it's a pretty good way to give 106 some teeth it normally doesn't have (as long as you slow down for the last few passes), but the 1Z just instantly turned itself into cement and wouldn't play.



This stuff dried so very fast on me it's hard to imagine a 5-7 minute working time unless you don't turn your buffer on. But Aaron's pictures speak volumes; that's a very nice finish.



I guess those instructions are there on the bottle for a reason... whouldathunkit?



Thanks for the help/replies, gents, looks like I need to play around with this stuff alot more.



I'll give it a shot again with some slower RPM's and see how it goes. I *really* want to like this stuff.
 
SVR said:
I've never noticed any filling properties from 106, even after IPA wipedown.

It's a shame that the einszett didn't work for you

The only thing I can suggest is to add some more parrafin white mineral oil and glycerin to the bottle or a 125ml sample so that the working time is longer.
Click to expand...



There's been *alot* of discussion about this lately. Alot of people are noticing that 106ff (among others) are unintentionally hiding defects. Some people say that the hiding ability is easily removed by doing an IPA wipedown, others are saying it doesn't matter what you use, the hiding effects will stay for quite a while. Personally, I've had great success with IPA wipedowns removing the hiding effect.
 
SuperBee364 said:
There's been *alot* of discussion about this lately. Alot of people are noticing that 106ff (among others) are unintentionally hiding defects. Some people say that the hiding ability is easily removed by doing an IPA wipedown, others are saying it doesn't matter what you use, the hiding effects will stay for quite a while. Personally, I've had great success with IPA wipedowns removing the hiding effect.
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Thanks. four months ago I went over most of my car with 106FF and a LC black pad

IPA and a base of prime and two coats of fireglaze DS



Seven washes later and some sections being redone by hand with glare pro polish and same product as a sealant and all those defects are still gone except on my left side section of bodykit where some swirls are back



What I'm thinking is that the blackfire 106 bottle that I got from pakshak is different than the one gallon of 106FF menzerna that I bought from AG's



I used the BF one on the left side and menz one on the right and besides oilyness, there are slight differences in colour and smell between the two

Is it possible that the BF 106 has got some BF gloss enhancing polish in it (non abrasive polish/glaze)



After reading this entire thread, I will definately make sure to not use 106 until all defects are removed or there's just some very tiny ones there



I've never gone from PG to 106 or even 85RD FP, I always use IP and then one of many 2000 grit polishes.

The sonus SFX range certainly works terrific for me and I've never had hiding problems from them. PPG Final Glaze is another awesome 2000 grit polish that I use with a white pad as second last or third last machine step.



P.S. five minutes minimum to work Einszett polishes, now that's going a little too far for me

Yes I like longer working time but two to three and a half mins is enough

Imagine what I'd have to charge a customer to do the entire car with the 1Z polishes.



It already takes me eight to sixteen hours to do three to four steps with other products. could end up being twenty five hours with einszett.



Cheers everyone. I'll do some experimenting before using 106 on customers cars again
 
Exactly. I just dont like the fact that i have to work the product for that long. Its just not what im use to. But gotta go with what works and what you have.
 
SVR said:
P.S. five minutes minimum to work Einszett polishes, now that's going a little too far for me

Yes I like longer working time but two to three and a half mins is enough

Imagine what I'd have to charge a customer to do the entire car with the 1Z polishes.
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Agreed. I usually work 106ff about 2.5-3 minutes as well. Doubling that time just isn't practical.
 
SuperBee364 said:
Agreed. I usually work 106ff about 2.5-3 minutes as well. Doubling that time just isn't practical.
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When using 106 or any other finish polish, use a blue lc pad. It is non mechanical and it will povide the best posible finish.



I will start a thread tomorrow on this and my new findings
 
hey rydawg. would you still like some samples? i've been busy with school. had to cram some study time for some tests.
 
Frito Bandito said:
Since HGP isn't intended for high speeds does it work well via PC?



I still want to try this stuff......I just can't rsist!
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I too, would be interested if anyone has any experience with HGP and a PC or UDM.



Thanks.
 
Bence said:
All 1Z polishes work exceptionally with DAs or by hand.
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Bence, thanks for your reply.



What speed/OPM is recommended for 1Z polishes? (1Z's instructions for the Pro line are in RPM's only).



How does the dusting of 1Z compare to Menzerna?
 
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