nosbusa1700, not that I'm doubting you at all, but...
Sometimes glaze/sealant incompatibilities aren't all that easy to see, especially right after application. It's easiest to see it on glass. In fact, that's kinda how I test all my glaze/sealant/wax combinations.
Typically, when a sealant/wax "de-adheress" (for lack of a better term) from the clear coat, it leaves a very thin, milky film that is very difficult to see, even on black paint. It's easiest to see on glass, especially with sun coming through just right. This milky film can sometimes be hard to remove, even though it's your LSP de-adhering from the clear coat.
When I had LSP failures in conjunction with GEPC, I had a couple different results.... the Zaino would do splotchy milky film, the FMJ would just simply wipe right off during haze removal, and the WOWO's (both the Z and the UPGP) would produce milky splotches, resulting in areas that were LSP'd and areas that were bare. All of this was found on the glass, not the paint. A valid argument could be made that glazes/lsp's, etc. are made to adhere to clear coat and not to glass, and I'd believe that, but I want my glaze/lsp combo to work on glass, too, so if it fails the glass test, to me it's failed the clear coat test, too.
And again, not to doubt you,

but now you have me curious... I'm going to go do a GEPC/1000P area on my rear windshield today. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I get good results like you, 'cause I think that GEPC/1000P would be a *killer* combination. If it works out, we'll all have you to thank for another good glaze/sealant combination. :hifive: