Heavy heavy oxidation

A

ahunt01

New member
Hey everyone, I just bought a fiberglass tanau cover for my truck, and it has been sitting out in the guys yard for what looks like years. The oxidation is mega heavy. I tired using Mothers Cleaner wax and it's helping just a little, but not much. I notice that alot of the paint is coming out on the rag, so I know he never had it clear coated.

At any rate, can you all recommend any good products to remove really bad oxidation? Would an abrasive compound like a 3M swirl remover be my best bet?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks all :cool:
 
Ok I've been looking at the Autopia CD I got from Dave.



How does going over the paint with 3M Perfect-It II Rubbing compound (Fine Cut, Paste)?

And then following up with 3M Perfect-It II Swirl Mark Remover OR 3M Finesse-It II Finishing Material?:confused:
 
I recently did a tonneau cover for a friend of mine, it was very heavily oxidized, he was getting ready to take it to a paint shop...Well i spent 3 hrs on it, and it looks better than the paint on his truck...I use dacp(#83) yellow pad, then merz ip with yellow pad, fp with a white pad and 2 coats of z2, i didnt have my digital camera with mee....But i saved him some money of getting it re-painted and it looks better than the paint on his truck....
 
Cool, glad to hear of the good job! Well i went out to Pep Boys and picked up 3M Perfect-It II Rubbing compound and 3M Perfect-It II Swirl Mark Remover. Now I need to get the motivation to go outside and do the work lol.
 
Well I'm having very little lick with the 3M products. I'm doing this by hand, so I suppose it's no wonder. I'm going to order a good chemical cleaner, I'm leaning towards AIO to do this.
 
ahunt01 said:
Well I'm having very little lick with the 3M products. I'm doing this by hand, so I suppose it's no wonder. I'm going to order a good chemical cleaner, I'm leaning towards AIO to do this.
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what kind of cloth are you using? Before I got a pc I always had good luck using a 100% terry cloth towell folded into a 4in by 4in pad. AIO is also a good choice for removing oxidation I always think of that red pick-up truck that one of the members here did with just AIO. He did use a pc though. Any way, good luck.
 
krsjuan, yeah I think the AIO will be a good choice from what I've been reading on here. I need to use it to remove very mild oxidation on the mirrors on my Civic, so I might as well try it on the truck cap. I'm using a terry cloth, and yeah I'd love to use a pc but I don't trust myself lol, plus I don't want to spend $100 bucks.



As far as my avatar goes, I'm pretty sure that I'm entitled to have a John Kerry Avatar. I'm not bashing anyone, and I'm not shoving my political views down anyone's throat. I'm just proud to show my support for Mr. Kerry, just the same as if a Bush supporter would use a George Bush avatar.



BTW, I think this message board is better suited to have debates about which wax is better, not which presidential candidate is better... But I encourage everyone, regardless of your political affiliation, to show support for your candidate. But please keep it positive:bigups
 
I say screw the current canidates. Strong Bad for President!! :D



There are a lot of things you could use for oxidation. My personal favorite is AIO just because I have seen how well it has worked. I'm sure any abrasive product would clear off the oxidation too, but AIO seems to do the job just fine, so I haven't really felt the need to use something else. I'm sure there are lots of products that could do just as good of a job, but I don't think any could do a better one. When used with a PC I really haven't come across any oxidation that AIO couldn't clean off.
 
How about when you use AIO without a PC? I think I saw a post of yours mentioning to Lynn that it would work good by hand as well.
 
It would take a bit more effort, but it would still work. The big problem I have with removing oxidation by hand with AIO is that the AIO wants to stick to the oxidation. If you don't really scrub while you are appying it, then it can be a real beast to remove afterwards. Keep the applicator damp and work on small sections at a time and you should be fine. It will work by hand, but it will take some elbow grease for sure.
 
Cool, how about the 3M Perfect-It II Rubbing compound by hand? I've been using it and I'd say it looks 20% better, but there's a dark film that is sticking to the paint and it still looks like crap. When I springle water over it and just buff the water in, then the paint becomes cloudy again... I really don't understand why that is. Would applying 3M Perfect-It II Rubbing compound with a slightly damp rag work better?
 
That could be haze. The reason why most cutting compounds should be used by a machine is because the particles break down and polish out their own hazing. If you work products like PI-II long enough then the haze will go away. Something like GEPC should take care of the haze if you wanted to try that. That is a light enough abrasive product that it is really effective on cleaning paint without leaving hazing behind. It will also help polish out the haze left by more abrasive products.
 
I would still suggest GEPC. SMR has loads of fillers and not nearly the abrasive level that I would suggest for oxidation removal. Its not a very good paint cleaner. Its more for 'Swirl Mark Removal' as the name implies. I would stick to products labeled for paint cleaning if you have oxidation issues. Fillers aren't going to help the situation much.
 
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