Haze after DACP, SMR with yellow or white?

G

GoodnClean

New member
Hey gang,



Just did my detail, thanks for the advice. Washed, clayed, DACP with yellow pad, AIO and SG. Unfortunately I lost my light and only got the AIO on tonight..



Now here's the deal. The horizontal surfaces (hood/roof/trunk/tops of doors) came out flawless, but I seem to have some slight hazing on the lower parts of the doors. My guess is I probably didnt get down on the PC enough, this would explain why on the horizontal surfaces its perfect.



My question is, SMR will remove this and clean it up right? Even though I'll be AIOing over it and removing the fillers? Should I use it with a yellow pad or a white pad?



Thanks as always
 
No I just dont like SMR. If you are worried about the haze returning after polishing the area spray it with some isopropyl (sp?) and water 50/50 mix wipe it off and wait a minute or two.
 
With DACP haze, I step down to Megs SFP or #9, then Megs Hand Polish or if you want to stay 3M, PIII-MG after DACP, then any fine polish.



Those looking for the entire Automotive 3M catalog, that's

#USLN-5REJ8U



Very good results with the above aforementioned.



Regards,

Deanski
 
Hey Dean, thanks for responding.



Unfortuately I dont have PIII-MG, what I have is 3M's SMR, isn't it equivelent to Meguiars #9? I also have some #9 lying around, you think that will give me better results than the 3M SMR?
 
Go with the #9 if it's the Version 2 of it. Called Swirl Remover 2.



You can P/U PIII-MG from autobody supply shops.



Regards,

Deanski
 
I just checked, theres not enough of it anyways, and its not 2.0.



Is the SMR going to do it for me? I thought they were comparable...
 
The 3M book does not say SMR is filling such as IHG, but as was stated before, one sure fire way.. Do small area with SMR. Polish and wipe then spray with alcohol/water mix and wipe off. If you see any marring returning, then it has fillers and not removing the marring, just covering.



The #9 still can be picked up at most good shops that get Meguirars products, or the SFP is the bodyshop version of it more for faster work with rotary machines.



Time and patience is the key. Take your time and don't sweat if one thing doesn't work first time. You may just be using the wrong product for the problem.



You can also test what's left of #9 you have B4 you P/U anymore to make sure it's doing the job.



Regards,

Deanski
 
Whats the difference between #9 and #9 2.0 version? I think I have the regular # 9 that I bought at an autobody wholesale shop.





Yielar
 
That's always been my question about GEPC use in the Klasse routine. Kind of, what's the point.



I guess in this case, if you're using the GEPC to remove the hazing, then, yeah, true AIO will strip out the oils, but at least you got rid of the haze.
 
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